step by step....( i tried the search button but no answer)

 

well the how to forum would probably be a better spot to post

 

Take them out put them in. Torque them down to factory specs.

 

If the rods are still in the car, it's a little more complicated than that.

 

Not if you go through the piston return spring access port?

 

YES just the tread im looking for. i here that its much more involved then take them out put them in and trq them, down. i here there is a proper way to do it. and that way is not the proper way. or is it??? a detailed how too would be a great help here.

 

All I can offer is remove DP, oil pan, rotate crank shaft to lower the rod(s), remove bolts, re-install new ones (torqued to spec), and off you go. Once you get the pan off, it should be pretty straight forward.

 

well getting to them should not be the problem. im talking about installing the new rod bolts. what is the right way to do it. what if the bearing falls out can you just put it back and finish it up or no. what is the right way to install the rod bolts.

 

loosen the rod bolts slightly, then remove one (allowing the other bolt to hold the bearing cap in place, replace with the new bolt (torque half of the lbs spec), then do the same with the other bolt. This way the bearing cap/bearing stay in place. When the two new bolts are in place, then walk in the two bolts evenly (3-5 times) to the spec mits indicates.

 

Sorry incorrect info. Probably should read the 2.3 liter build in the sticky section.

 

^incorrect. if you torque the bolts with the rods and pistons out of the block, how are you going to get the rod and piston onto the crank? the only way to do it is to do it in the block through the oil pan with the rod already on the crank.

 

The proper way is to use a stretch-gauge. Just using a torque measurment brings in way to much room for error. The only way to ensure that each bolt/stud is fastened to the same and proper pre-load is to use a stretch-gauge.

You wouldn't want your nut/bolt backing off eventually because of an incorrect preload, would you? For rod bolts/studs, always use a stretch gauge.


Eric

 

torque the rod bolts to the bolt manufacturers specs.