Yup!

See I thought it would be really "clean" to just cap those off instead of using a hose.

 

Hey I got stranded tonight for 2 hours because the FREAKING TB coolant hose ripped open. The rubber was all gooey and it barely had any fibers in to hold its shape. I'm glad I notice the water temp rising and stopped. Regardless if you do the bypass mod or not change those suckers!

 

Why would you do this mod anyways. I do not see the benefit except slowing the car down from entering closed loop idle.

 

+1. what's the benefit?

 

The FIAV is a sensitive little ****box that always likes to **** up my idle, wether it's on DSMs or on the EVO. If you've ever had oil in your coolant your even more likely to have problems. The lines that go to the TB are also a liability, as some poeple are finding out. Again, even more so if you have had oil in your coolant. One of mine tore open when the car was 1 year old. Having to loop them together though doesn't help much in this department, better to seal them off completely.

This mod is NOT done for more power, but for specific reasons having to do with the idle. If you need to do this mod, you already know what the problem is and won't have any basic questions about it.

 

So how should I "fix" this so it doesn't happen again? My stock lines to the TB leaked after 3 years... I used the longer hose to connect the two.. it rips.. I use vacuum caps like a dumbass.. they fail...

 

Dude what are you talking about? The T/B by pass mod is just to reduce heat transfer at the intake and T/B in an effort to reduce inlet temps. Thats it.

 

This thread isn't about what this mod does... it's about not capping these off due to failure and figuring out a fool proof solution for blocking the lines :\

There has to be some sort of fitting/braided line that could be used on these. I don't trust anyone local to weld this so that's not an option

 

Heat transfer from the TB to the intake air is negligible. Any HP gains from this will likely fall within the normal noise between dyno runs. I've done this mod on several cars now (for the reasons I mentioned previously), and can actually speak from experience, not just repeat what I read on the intarnet. Perhaps if I type in bold letters I'll appear more knowledgable.


I can't think of any good way to incorporate AN fittings. You could use braided hose, slipping it over the stock hard lines, but I'm not sure how much it would help. I found that the high quality reinforced high pressure line (may have even been fuel injection line) lasted quite a few years, never failed on me. I just bought it by the foot, 3/8ths in size for most of the medium sized lines, and 5/8ths for the heater core lines.

 

atleast you did a radiator "flush" by force lol

 

That split cap sure is shocking....

 

So you used 3/8's on to create the bypass? I'm trying to find something online so I have something to show the local part guys.

LOL yeah!

Not really... it was bound to happen I'm sure the little clamps I put on them helped out in the destruction.

 

If you only had a clue.

 

since your stock line lasted 3yrs how about go to the dealer and get another, cant be more than 15 bucks for that line. And then you will have another 3 yrs out of it.

 

i have to admit, the stock water lines feel really thin & weak.

have a field day with this, but i just use "goodyear" made 3/8 fuel line. the hose has a nice braid in it, which the oem water lines do not. Being that the hose is a small diameter, the integrity of the hose feels magnitudes betterthan the oem line.

here is a link to goodyear fuel / emission hose rated to 257f if your concerned.
http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=816
you should be able to pick this up @ any kragen, autozone, pepboys.

i also used worm style hose clamps with this line too. the oem clamps went into the trash with the crappy hoses.

if your concerned, i would buy oem lines & re-install or go the route used above or source out some high temp rubber hose to suit your purpose.

good luck.