TB Coolant Bypass Mod - WARNING
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From: Charleston, WV
Sweet. Thanks WOT. I will order some and check it out.
My stock lines were being used for what they were intended for when they failed. I used a stock line to connect the two outlets and it failed within months. I'm looking for a real solution not another bandaid thanks.
My stock lines were being used for what they were intended for when they failed. I used a stock line to connect the two outlets and it failed within months. I'm looking for a real solution not another bandaid thanks.
You're right, I don't have a clue. But let me leave you with a little something to think about.
1) These are turbo cars, not NA. Our charge temps can be significantly higher, even with FMICs. On a typical day lately, I see up to 130 degrees post IC on a full drag run. The coolant temp is 176 degrees, for a relatively minor 46 degree difference. The rate at which an object changes temperature varies directly with the difference between the temperature of that object and that of it's surroundings. Small temp differential equals small temp transfer rate.
2) Consider how a typical heat exchanger is built. Radiator, Intercooler, air conditioner, refridgerator, etc. Then consider how a throttle body is built. I'm sure you see where this is going, right? It is not a good heat exchanger. There is very little surface area compared to it's cross section, and the air moves through it too quickly.
3) Combine 1 and 2 and you'll come to the conclusion that the heat transfer from the coolant in the throttle body to the charge air is negligible, as I stated in my previous post. I'm not sure what is so difficult to understand about this.
Here's a pic of my TB coolant hose after it blew. Luckily I was a about 5 houses away from my driveway.
The stock hoses are weak, and don't last, as several here have first hand experience with. Good reason to replace them or do the bypass mod. I used 3/8's fuel line as others have. A steel braided -6 fuel line should work also. You can put some worm gear clamps on the braided line, and the braid should keep the clamp from eating into the rubber part of the hose.
As far as capping goes, it won't create more pressure to "blow" the cap, the system will only run as much pressure as the radiator cap will allow, capping the nipples will only force the coolant down different pathways, but it won't raise the pressure of the overall system at the capped nipples by any appreciable amount.
The stock hoses are weak, and don't last, as several here have first hand experience with. Good reason to replace them or do the bypass mod. I used 3/8's fuel line as others have. A steel braided -6 fuel line should work also. You can put some worm gear clamps on the braided line, and the braid should keep the clamp from eating into the rubber part of the hose.
As far as capping goes, it won't create more pressure to "blow" the cap, the system will only run as much pressure as the radiator cap will allow, capping the nipples will only force the coolant down different pathways, but it won't raise the pressure of the overall system at the capped nipples by any appreciable amount.
That's exactly how my stock line failed. Seems like the premolded hoses always split on one of the bends. Another reason to go with a regular section of stright line.
Last edited by kjewer1; Jun 11, 2007 at 07:37 PM.
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From: Charleston, WV
Do you guys think something like this would work:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
They also have 5/16
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
They also have 5/16
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
i would just go by autozone and buy some fuel line. they have spools of different sizes and sell it by the foot. it's very strong and reinforced(not steel braided though). it's not that much and you can get it local for a good price. put some new worm clamps on and i don't think you'd have a problem.
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From: Charleston, WV
I went the Advanced and picked up some of the heavy duty 3/8 fuel line. Instead of worm clamps I bought the fuel line clamps that are kinda funky but they shouldn't tear the line.
Here is a pic of a clamp like the ones I'm talking about... It's model # 52F16v
Here is a pic of a clamp like the ones I'm talking about... It's model # 52F16v
Last edited by justchil; Jun 15, 2007 at 08:29 AM.
Here's a pic of my TB coolant hose after it blew. Luckily I was a about 5 houses away from my driveway.
The stock hoses are weak, and don't last, as several here have first hand experience with. Good reason to replace them or do the bypass mod. I used 3/8's fuel line as others have. A steel braided -6 fuel line should work also. You can put some worm gear clamps on the braided line, and the braid should keep the clamp from eating into the rubber part of the hose.
As far as capping goes, it won't create more pressure to "blow" the cap, the system will only run as much pressure as the radiator cap will allow, capping the nipples will only force the coolant down different pathways, but it won't raise the pressure of the overall system at the capped nipples by any appreciable amount.
The stock hoses are weak, and don't last, as several here have first hand experience with. Good reason to replace them or do the bypass mod. I used 3/8's fuel line as others have. A steel braided -6 fuel line should work also. You can put some worm gear clamps on the braided line, and the braid should keep the clamp from eating into the rubber part of the hose.
As far as capping goes, it won't create more pressure to "blow" the cap, the system will only run as much pressure as the radiator cap will allow, capping the nipples will only force the coolant down different pathways, but it won't raise the pressure of the overall system at the capped nipples by any appreciable amount.
I just run a bypass as well. DONT cap off the lines, due to the pressure it will cause. I use a brass connector that was pictured above, have been running it for over a year now and it's my track car so water temps get real high. No problems!
oh lord..lol the cap ripped because you applied too much pressure in tightning them...it happened to me when i first did it..i just made sure i didnt tighten them too much..havent had a problem since..drove to ny from florida...and then from ny to va....just make sure you have an extra set and some coolant in case it decides to take a **** on you
