4" Exhaust!?
Well, if you really wanted to, you can calculate the back pressure/pressure drop based on mass flow rate of exhaust and the temp of the exhaust. Knowing temp, you can calculate the density. Knowing density and mass flow rate you can calculate flow velocity and then calculate the back pressure. You'll have to make 'ball park' assumptions, but it'll give you an idea.
Say.... 40lbs/hr of air should be about 350-400hp worth, guess a temp of 1200F, and 5 feet of exhaust tubing. Throw in a couple bends if you want for those additional losses. That should be a pretty good starting point. If you want to approximate higher HP cars, just up the mass flow rate.
I guess I could do a CFD analysis on it if I had some spare time (which I don't for a few weeks).
Say.... 40lbs/hr of air should be about 350-400hp worth, guess a temp of 1200F, and 5 feet of exhaust tubing. Throw in a couple bends if you want for those additional losses. That should be a pretty good starting point. If you want to approximate higher HP cars, just up the mass flow rate.
I guess I could do a CFD analysis on it if I had some spare time (which I don't for a few weeks).
I love the people who think that some backpressure helps a turbo spool. I'd love to know how that works. Take any fan in this world and put a restriction on where the air is being pushed and explain to me how that helps it turn quicker or faster. Makes no sense. backpressure will never help any kind of fan turn quicker or faster. Not a turbo, ceiling fan, window fan, slimline fan, nothing.
The best exhaust on a turbo car is and will always be no exhaust. Now as far as power level goes, a true free flowing 3" exhaust is good for huge numbers, I'd say 600whp-700whp is a good maximum where I'd want to run a larger exhaust and I wouldnt go above 3.5" because of aesthetic issues. I have a 3.5" turboback now and its tight, I had to cut off a bracket from the hugger bearing that holds the driveshaft, and its still touching my front subframe a tad when i decel and the motor shakes. once I get mounts it should stop doing that.
The best exhaust on a turbo car is and will always be no exhaust. Now as far as power level goes, a true free flowing 3" exhaust is good for huge numbers, I'd say 600whp-700whp is a good maximum where I'd want to run a larger exhaust and I wouldnt go above 3.5" because of aesthetic issues. I have a 3.5" turboback now and its tight, I had to cut off a bracket from the hugger bearing that holds the driveshaft, and its still touching my front subframe a tad when i decel and the motor shakes. once I get mounts it should stop doing that.
If we gained 100whp just from going to 4" from a 3", I think many would jump at it even with the cost of a whole new exhaust system, lots of extra noise, and possiblly banging the crap out of it on speed bumps.
But if you only gained 20whp, would you do it?
Here is a comparo (sr20de-t ) between a 2,5 catback vs a 3,5 , from the turbo to the test pipe 3,5 inchs .
gt3071r at 12,5 lbs aprox very low timing etc.
gt3071r at 12,5 lbs aprox very low timing etc.
Last edited by JPSR20DET; Jun 14, 2007 at 03:07 PM.
Gains from exhaust aren't linear. Just because you gain some hp from a 2.5 to a 3.5 doesn't mean you're going to gain anything at all from a 3.5 to a 4.
If performance is all someone is looking for, they should run no exhaust at all.
Just dump the turbine exit onto the ground as well as the wastegate dump.
That's mildly helpful.
Gains from exhaust aren't linear. Just because you gain some hp from a 2.5 to a 3.5 doesn't mean you're going to gain anything at all from a 3.5 to a 4.
If performance is all someone is looking for, they should run no exhaust at all.
Just dump the turbine exit onto the ground as well as the wastegate dump.
Gains from exhaust aren't linear. Just because you gain some hp from a 2.5 to a 3.5 doesn't mean you're going to gain anything at all from a 3.5 to a 4.
If performance is all someone is looking for, they should run no exhaust at all.
Just dump the turbine exit onto the ground as well as the wastegate dump.
), in aprox a month I will post the results.cheers.
Well, we all know that. But the question is.... how much better? Throw money into the equation, and you have hp gain/dollar. Toss in fitment and clearance issues too. Oh yeah, noise.
If we gained 100whp just from going to 4" from a 3", I think many would jump at it even with the cost of a whole new exhaust system, lots of extra noise, and possiblly banging the crap out of it on speed bumps.
But if you only gained 20whp, would you do it?
If we gained 100whp just from going to 4" from a 3", I think many would jump at it even with the cost of a whole new exhaust system, lots of extra noise, and possiblly banging the crap out of it on speed bumps.
But if you only gained 20whp, would you do it?
and 20hp?????? that would be a huge gain, but its unlikely it would be that much.
think of it this way, take a small fan and somehow attach different size tubes to the front of the fan. gragually make the diameters of the tubes bigger and see what happens. they fan will perform best with no tube or the biggest tube u can fit on it.
The one thing the EVO really has going for it on making a lot of power on smaller diameter exhausts is that you can build an entire EVO exhaust with 2 90 degree bends and a 45 degree bend. The bends are where most of the pressure drop is and the fact that the EVO has so few bends really keeps the pressure drop down.
The one thing the EVO really has going for it on making a lot of power on smaller diameter exhausts is that you can build an entire EVO exhaust with 2 90 degree bends and a 45 degree bend. The bends are where most of the pressure drop is and the fact that the EVO has so few bends really keeps the pressure drop down.
Very true.
You're one of the few people who have ever mentioned this and I think it really deservers more consideration.
An example in a different contect is AC ducting in your home. A 90 degree bend in ductwork is the equivalent resistance of putting in a 20-30 foot straight run of duct.
Those angled exhausts actually are designed to be that way for a reason.
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