ACT prolite flywheel or ACT streetlite flywheel
#1
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ACT prolite flywheel or ACT streetlite flywheel
Can someone tell me what the difference between the two are and what the advantages and disadvantages of each are? I've searched and found nothing explaining the difference.
i'll be in the market for a new clutch soon and i'd love an exedy twin but money just wont allow it with a baby on the way. I'll mostlikely be getting an ACT xtreme to go along with some sort of green or 50trim setup (undecided) and want to know you guys opinions on the flywheels.
I currently am running ACT's HDSS model andafter 21k miles and no more than 40 launches, it's getting ready to go. I only make 3 passes at the track each time i go. so i'm definitely not over doing it there. never back to back either. my 60's always range from 1.73-1.78 so they are rough launches. on the street i launch maybe 1once every other month. i do a LOT of highway runs though so thats probably where the clutch has taken the most abuse (just a guess. im no expert).
the clutch has low miles but under high rpm's shifting to 3rd, or 4th or 5th (6speed) are very tough. not notchy and never grinding but after i shift, the clutch pedal doesn't come back up all the way anymore. only halfway (if i shift hard) so im figuring it's the clutch.
I have a TRE 6speed in here at the moment with about 15k miles on it so i highly doubt it's the transmission.
maybe after i do the clutch, i'll do shifter bushings, ss clutch line, solid motor mounts and a torque dampener just to make sure i dont have anymore issues with shifting.
anyhow im not sure about the flywheels or how they differ. can someone please educate me on that
i'll be in the market for a new clutch soon and i'd love an exedy twin but money just wont allow it with a baby on the way. I'll mostlikely be getting an ACT xtreme to go along with some sort of green or 50trim setup (undecided) and want to know you guys opinions on the flywheels.
I currently am running ACT's HDSS model andafter 21k miles and no more than 40 launches, it's getting ready to go. I only make 3 passes at the track each time i go. so i'm definitely not over doing it there. never back to back either. my 60's always range from 1.73-1.78 so they are rough launches. on the street i launch maybe 1once every other month. i do a LOT of highway runs though so thats probably where the clutch has taken the most abuse (just a guess. im no expert).
the clutch has low miles but under high rpm's shifting to 3rd, or 4th or 5th (6speed) are very tough. not notchy and never grinding but after i shift, the clutch pedal doesn't come back up all the way anymore. only halfway (if i shift hard) so im figuring it's the clutch.
I have a TRE 6speed in here at the moment with about 15k miles on it so i highly doubt it's the transmission.
maybe after i do the clutch, i'll do shifter bushings, ss clutch line, solid motor mounts and a torque dampener just to make sure i dont have anymore issues with shifting.
anyhow im not sure about the flywheels or how they differ. can someone please educate me on that
#4
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The ACT Prolite is 10.1 lbs, the Streetlite is 13.1 and is close to stock in terms of the weight. The Streetlite has the weight removed from the outside of the flywheel so even though the weight is similar to stock it still feel lighter upon acceleration.
I would say that if you do a lot of drag racing the Streetlite would be the way to go because the weight makes it easier to launch/modulate the clutch. I've driven cars with both and the Prolite's weight can make it bit more difficult if you live in a hilly area or drag race often to take off, but not impossible.
The obvious advantage of the Prolite is that it weighs less and as such will have more of an effect on the cars acceleration/deceleration. The advantage of the Streetlite is that it is close enough in weight to stock, but thicker than the OE (from what I've read and is therefore resurfaceable and less likely to warp from overheating). I think ACTMAN said that both were thicker than stock so that should be an advantage on either weight. Other than that I think the only other factor would be the price. The Prolite cost a bit more than the Streetlite.
I would say that if you do a lot of drag racing the Streetlite would be the way to go because the weight makes it easier to launch/modulate the clutch. I've driven cars with both and the Prolite's weight can make it bit more difficult if you live in a hilly area or drag race often to take off, but not impossible.
The obvious advantage of the Prolite is that it weighs less and as such will have more of an effect on the cars acceleration/deceleration. The advantage of the Streetlite is that it is close enough in weight to stock, but thicker than the OE (from what I've read and is therefore resurfaceable and less likely to warp from overheating). I think ACTMAN said that both were thicker than stock so that should be an advantage on either weight. Other than that I think the only other factor would be the price. The Prolite cost a bit more than the Streetlite.
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The ACT Prolite is 10.1 lbs, the Streetlite is 13.1 and is close to stock in terms of the weight. The Streetlite has the weight removed from the outside of the flywheel so even though the weight is similar to stock it still feel lighter upon acceleration.
I would say that if you do a lot of drag racing the Streetlite would be the way to go because the weight makes it easier to launch/modulate the clutch. I've driven cars with both and the Prolite's weight can make it bit more difficult if you live in a hilly area or drag race often to take off, but not impossible.
The obvious advantage of the Prolite is that it weighs less and as such will have more of an effect on the cars acceleration/deceleration. The advantage of the Streetlite is that it is close enough in weight to stock, but thicker than the OE (from what I've read and is therefore resurfaceable and less likely to warp from overheating). I think ACTMAN said that both were thicker than stock so that should be an advantage on either weight. Other than that I think the only other factor would be the price. The Prolite cost a bit more than the Streetlite.
I would say that if you do a lot of drag racing the Streetlite would be the way to go because the weight makes it easier to launch/modulate the clutch. I've driven cars with both and the Prolite's weight can make it bit more difficult if you live in a hilly area or drag race often to take off, but not impossible.
The obvious advantage of the Prolite is that it weighs less and as such will have more of an effect on the cars acceleration/deceleration. The advantage of the Streetlite is that it is close enough in weight to stock, but thicker than the OE (from what I've read and is therefore resurfaceable and less likely to warp from overheating). I think ACTMAN said that both were thicker than stock so that should be an advantage on either weight. Other than that I think the only other factor would be the price. The Prolite cost a bit more than the Streetlite.
#6
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well then that makes things much easier. i have the streetlite in mine. being strapped for cash and knowing that it's resurfaceable makes purchasing the clutch much easier now
#7
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The ACT Prolite is 10.1 lbs, the Streetlite is 13.1 and is close to stock in terms of the weight. The Streetlite has the weight removed from the outside of the flywheel so even though the weight is similar to stock it still feel lighter upon acceleration.
I would say that if you do a lot of drag racing the Streetlite would be the way to go because the weight makes it easier to launch/modulate the clutch. I've driven cars with both and the Prolite's weight can make it bit more difficult if you live in a hilly area or drag race often to take off, but not impossible.
The obvious advantage of the Prolite is that it weighs less and as such will have more of an effect on the cars acceleration/deceleration. The advantage of the Streetlite is that it is close enough in weight to stock, but thicker than the OE (from what I've read and is therefore resurfaceable and less likely to warp from overheating). I think ACTMAN said that both were thicker than stock so that should be an advantage on either weight. Other than that I think the only other factor would be the price. The Prolite cost a bit more than the Streetlite.
I would say that if you do a lot of drag racing the Streetlite would be the way to go because the weight makes it easier to launch/modulate the clutch. I've driven cars with both and the Prolite's weight can make it bit more difficult if you live in a hilly area or drag race often to take off, but not impossible.
The obvious advantage of the Prolite is that it weighs less and as such will have more of an effect on the cars acceleration/deceleration. The advantage of the Streetlite is that it is close enough in weight to stock, but thicker than the OE (from what I've read and is therefore resurfaceable and less likely to warp from overheating). I think ACTMAN said that both were thicker than stock so that should be an advantage on either weight. Other than that I think the only other factor would be the price. The Prolite cost a bit more than the Streetlite.
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#8
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I had the ACT MB7 HDSS clutch with the prolight flywheel on my BR350 IX and loved it. Smooth as stock on take off,quieter,better clutch pedal feel,etc.The car launched like a rocket with no clutch smell at all when done right,and the revs came up much quicker (obviousely) with the prolight. I saw no drawbacks at all using the prolight instead of a heavier one like the streetlight or the gruppe-s flywheel.I was told this and that about using the PL about it being to light for great launches and how the revs would come down to fast in between shifts,etc. I found none of that to be true. The car shifted smooth as glass in every gear whether upshifting or downshifting at any rpm right up to 7800 rpm,s. I highly recommend it.
#9
The actual clutch weight makes for faster better shifts not the flywheel weights. A street disc with springs is gonna be the slowest and also the hardest to shift at high rpms. A carbon without springs or a 4 puck with no springs is gonna be the best for fast high rpm shifting.
#10
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I dont find any problems with lauching cars with prolite flwheels, The Exedy twin in my car weighs less then a act clutch/prolite combo and i also have no problems with that. I never understood why people say they have a problem launching cars with lighten flywheels.
The actual clutch weight makes for faster better shifts not the flywheel weights. A street disc with springs is gonna be the slowest and also the hardest to shift at high rpms. A carbon without springs or a 4 puck with no springs is gonna be the best for fast high rpm shifting.
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RussianEVO (Oct 5, 2020)
#14
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A heavier flywheel stores more energy than a light one. What this does is help the car get moving from a stop. As soon as the car is moving, there is no more advantage, as the greater mass of a heavier flywheel requires more power to accelerate. A heavier flyweel just makes stop-and-go driving a bit easier for a relatively heavy car with a small motor. It also tends to be easier on the clutch, because less slippage is required.
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RussianEVO (Oct 5, 2020)