Also agree with SIGSP2340 "safety wire" is a standard in aviation. For just this reason all hardware is tied to one another. It shouldn't be hard to source the hardware. Though it may be a pricey way to fix your problem.
Give the Locktite a try.

 

+10 for Safety wire. Sometimes the drilled bolts can be hard to find but you can drill them out yourself with a vise and very small drill bit. The wire is easy to buy online (not so easy to find at hardware stores) and I would advise you get a pair of safetywire "twist" pliers. This stuff comes in handy more than you can imagine. Nearly every bolt on every airplane ever built since 1950 is safetywired, that should be good enough assurance.

 

I had the same problem with my kit, but never changed out the bolts. They were very stretched and one eventually broke. I also tried the high heat loctite and it didn't help.

 

1/32 drill bit ($5.00)
Roll of safety wire ($8.00)
SafetyWire Pliers (15.00) but not required.

Very cheap insurance, it also makes good voltmeter lead extensions!

 

what the hell is safety wire?

 

Grade VIII?
They should never stretch, not from heat and measley turbo weight. Certainly not 1300F heat.
Even grade V shouldn't do this.
What hardware does BR give you???????????????

 

Check out this link

Be sure to use a "backwards S" pattern so pull on the bolt tightens.

 

Safety wire is a high tensile wire to tie fastners/bolts/nuts together with.
Like guy wires on power poles.

 

What about a simpler approach? Put a lock washer on the bolt. See if that works.

 

Tried that too and it didn't work.

 

Then that is some **** poor machining. Thread taps are tapered for a reason. Whoever machined it must have chased it to many times.

 

Use lock washer on everything! and you will be golden

 

There is probably a simple solution to this. Take another page from the 1g/2g book and get the 2g cupped washers. Face the cups outward (two per bolt) and torque to about 40 ft-lbs. Same style interface as 1g and 2g manifolds/turbos, and I never had a bolt loosen up or get stuck in the turbine housing over the years and countless turbos. The dealer stocks them for a couple bucks, worth a shot IMO.

 

Are your bolts backing off or nuts? You should be using studs with lock nuts (not nylocks). If the studs are the correct length (couple threads PAST end of nut and you installed them correctly by 'double-nutting') you should be fine after a couple of heat cycles. This is my method for my 3065.

 

where can i get studs>?????