hey guys,

I blew my engine today... probably from oil starvation or high boost or something... my evo's quite old (V) and has never been rebuilt. I just wanted to know what I can do to make it handle high boost. I'll be rebuildling the whole thing, and maybe you guys can chip in a few pointers to make sure that I'm doing the right thing. What should I do to make it stronger and more reliable to keep up with high boost? I'm running a 50 trim kit. The rebuild starts on Saturday...

I just really wanted to make sure that I won't miss out on important things, stuff like upgraded headstuds are already up my list, but you guys just know so much. Your help will be greatly appreciated guys!

 

Oh and by the way, the strangest thing is that this happened on the way to work, in traffic and all. I didn't boost 1psi today and it ended up like this...

 

Think this forum has been long enough to show repeats of what needs to be done..Someone who knows tolerances well enough and is careful enough when putting everything back together especially in a 4G63 is 50 percent off it...the rest are just parts...

 

Was the bottom end stock? I had my #1 rod bearing spin after it appeared that I stretched the rod bolts in my 03. Part of my rebuild includes upgrading the fasteners in the bottom end to ARP hardware. Another thing I am doing to help with longevity is having the reciprocating mass (pistons, rods, crank, etc.) balanced along with moving to a Fluidampr front damper.

 

And of course, no engine, no matter how well built, will survive a beating as a result of a poor tune while under high stress conditions. The software is as important as the hardware, if not more so.

 

Thank you guys... how about the stocker internals? Aren't they good enough? I mean I've used it the same way for more than 5 years now and this just happened. Does the 50 trim turbo ask too much in terms of internals? Does that turbo require really strong parts already? I boost at 21psi, but I think the engine is just really old that's why this happened... it had no warning at all, it just went!

 

Erioshi, yes the bottom end was stock... I never touched it ever since, and I'm quite surprised it just gave now thinking that I've been beating the crap out of it for the past 5 years or so. I've searched around here and found the same cases but never the answer to why these things happen, and most, if not all, of these cars were put back to stock and the warranty took care of it... not with me!

 

I was also wondering which parts can be OEM and which ones should be upgraded... help needed!

 

none. it sounds like to me that you should not fug with the boost after tune and make sure oil is in it.

 

apex1, you mean the stock parts can handle it?

 

I don't know much about the internals of earlier Evos, but in my case I'm building for about 500-550 crank HP. Other than the spun bearing, the internals of my 8 were in great shape. We've just freshened up everything and I will be using OE rods, pistons & rings for the rebuild.

Ted is dead on about tuning - my car was well tuned and didn't show any tune related damage. My failure was related to hard use - lots of time doing track days at some very high speed tracks. My car has seen 150+ mph often enough that I'm comfortable & relaxed driving it at those speeds now.

One thing to keep in mind is that more power + hard use = more frequent rebuilds. There's just no way around it. You can take steps to help increase the time between rebuilds, but the laws of physics are immutable.

 

i see... what mods do you have? i am thinking about using oem internals as well, but will they be good enough and will they last with the 50 trim? my target is no more than 400whp with the 50 trim... i just don't know exactly how strong the OEM parts are and how much punishment they can take to last another 3 years or so...

 

If you need a rebuild, there is no way in hell I'd replace it with OEM parts. A pair of forged pistons and rods is relatively inexpensive compared to stock and is much stronger.

 

Thanks Soon2Bevo... but are the pistons and rods (studs as well) the only important bits that need to be of higher quality? everything else can remain OEM?

 

To be honest, I wouldnt leave much stock. ARP hardware is much better than stock and things like the OEM rod bolts have been known to be weak. It would just be very cheap insurance to get the best parts possible, and as I said before, the price difference for those parts compared to OEM is not very much. You can get a built 2.0 from some vendors for around $3000, while a new shortblock from Mitsu is around $2900.