Engine: Evo Blew on first day (Help!)
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 324
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From: Harrisburg, PA
Originally the shop owner was going to just get a new OEM mistu short block.
But for about the same price we can do the JAM short block,
The only thing we will be re-using is the Block it self.
The block should be out of the car early this week, once it is out,
we will be able to see the condition of the block to make sure it is re-usable.
I believe the block will be fine.
Then i will take the block to Jackson's to get every thing done to it.
But for about the same price we can do the JAM short block,
The only thing we will be re-using is the Block it self.
The block should be out of the car early this week, once it is out,
we will be able to see the condition of the block to make sure it is re-usable.
I believe the block will be fine.
Then i will take the block to Jackson's to get every thing done to it.
I may be a "newb", but I hope for my posts to be a little more insightful than ones of just telling people to spend more money. I know every Evolution owner is not ignorent, but unfortunatly, many are. So if you have to stay on here, why further misinform people, and feed into the "if it's broke, spend a couple more thousand dollars on it" mentality?
It dosn't seem to me like anybody explained what is involved in rebuilding an engine. First of all, before you determine whether a completely new longblock will be needed, the old engine should be tore down and inspected. The best scenario, he may be able to get away with only having to install new rings, main and rod bearings, and the journals on the crank may only need to be micropolished to clean up. I assume the block isn't screwed, so in the worst case scenario, he may have to replace the crank (turning it really isn't an option with these engines, as anyone knows that 4G63 cranks get their strength from their nitride coating, which turning removes), and possibly rods if the journals are really bad. It all ends up to cost, and what is cost effective. If he plans on turning this thing into a racecar, sure, get a built engine. If not, he has quite a few options, and I don't think anybody explained to him that a good rebuilt engine is just as good as a "new" engine.
It dosn't seem to me like anybody explained what is involved in rebuilding an engine. First of all, before you determine whether a completely new longblock will be needed, the old engine should be tore down and inspected. The best scenario, he may be able to get away with only having to install new rings, main and rod bearings, and the journals on the crank may only need to be micropolished to clean up. I assume the block isn't screwed, so in the worst case scenario, he may have to replace the crank (turning it really isn't an option with these engines, as anyone knows that 4G63 cranks get their strength from their nitride coating, which turning removes), and possibly rods if the journals are really bad. It all ends up to cost, and what is cost effective. If he plans on turning this thing into a racecar, sure, get a built engine. If not, he has quite a few options, and I don't think anybody explained to him that a good rebuilt engine is just as good as a "new" engine.
Read the above post and maybe you will see that no one is telling him to blow mega bucks on his car. wow
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 356
Likes: 2
From: Actionville, FL
Here is what comes with the JAM Short block.
*2.4 Forged Steel Crankshaft
*Wiseco forged pistons, 8.74-1 cr
*Oliver Billet Conn Rods w/ARP bolts
*ARP main studs
*ACL perf coated rod & main brgs
*ACL perf coated shaft brgs
They also do...
*Remove the block oilers, balance shaft brgs, galley plug and freeze plugs
*Your empty block is completely degreased
*Main bolt holes are bottom tapped
*Line bore specs are checked w/ARP main studs
*Deck surface is precision machined to RA50 finish or better
*The deck holes are bottom tapped for ARP head studs
*The cylinders are 4 step torque plate hone w/ARP studs
*Machine the block for stroker clearances
*File fit piston rings per cylinder
*The block is then thoroughly final washed
*The new rods & pistons are then pinfit
*The cleaned block oilers are then installed
*Install performance coated balance shaft brgs
*Install freeze plugs, galley, head to block dowels
*Clean, mike & polish balance shafts
*Your stroker shortblock is then asembled
*2.4 Forged Steel Crankshaft
*Wiseco forged pistons, 8.74-1 cr
*Oliver Billet Conn Rods w/ARP bolts
*ARP main studs
*ACL perf coated rod & main brgs
*ACL perf coated shaft brgs
They also do...
*Remove the block oilers, balance shaft brgs, galley plug and freeze plugs
*Your empty block is completely degreased
*Main bolt holes are bottom tapped
*Line bore specs are checked w/ARP main studs
*Deck surface is precision machined to RA50 finish or better
*The deck holes are bottom tapped for ARP head studs
*The cylinders are 4 step torque plate hone w/ARP studs
*Machine the block for stroker clearances
*File fit piston rings per cylinder
*The block is then thoroughly final washed
*The new rods & pistons are then pinfit
*The cleaned block oilers are then installed
*Install performance coated balance shaft brgs
*Install freeze plugs, galley, head to block dowels
*Clean, mike & polish balance shafts
*Your stroker shortblock is then asembled
TomTom, you still never gave a list of your mods as far as I can see, though it's hard to scroll through 8 pages of crap.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 324
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From: Harrisburg, PA
The car came with a Greddy TypeS bov and a cheap intake.
I am going to break the motor in, then will put some add on's.
Like full turbo back exhaust, better intake. MBC and then get it tuned.
Drive it for a little, then i will probably go with a GT35R, some Valve train work, larger injectors and then re tuned.
looking for a responsive 350-400hp, I know the 35R is a larger turbo but the fact that it will be a 2.3 litter i think will help with making it more responsive.
After viewing some Dyno graphs of a 35R on a stroked 2.3 littler it looks like it will be great.
I have checked out the Twinscroll setups, the 35R only comes in a .78 A/R
Twinscroll .78 GT35R + 2.3L = RESPONSE!!!!!
I am going to break the motor in, then will put some add on's.
Like full turbo back exhaust, better intake. MBC and then get it tuned.
Drive it for a little, then i will probably go with a GT35R, some Valve train work, larger injectors and then re tuned.
looking for a responsive 350-400hp, I know the 35R is a larger turbo but the fact that it will be a 2.3 litter i think will help with making it more responsive.
After viewing some Dyno graphs of a 35R on a stroked 2.3 littler it looks like it will be great.
I have checked out the Twinscroll setups, the 35R only comes in a .78 A/R
Twinscroll .78 GT35R + 2.3L = RESPONSE!!!!!
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
From: Harrisburg, PA
The car came with a Greddy TypeS bov and a cheap intake.
I am going to break the motor in, then will put some add on's.
Like full turbo back exhaust, better intake. MBC and then get it tuned.
Drive it for a little, then i will probably go with a GT35R, some Valve train work, larger injectors and then re tuned.
looking for a responsive 350-400hp, I know the 35R is a larger turbo but the fact that it will be a 2.3 litter i think will help with making it more responsive.
After viewing some Dyno graphs of a 35R on a stroked 2.3 littler it looks like it will be great.
I have checked out the Twinscroll setups, the 35R only comes in a .78 A/R
Twinscroll .78 GT35R + 2.3L = RESPONSE!!!!!
So i am also interested in this.
I am going to break the motor in, then will put some add on's.
Like full turbo back exhaust, better intake. MBC and then get it tuned.
Drive it for a little, then i will probably go with a GT35R, some Valve train work, larger injectors and then re tuned.
looking for a responsive 350-400hp, I know the 35R is a larger turbo but the fact that it will be a 2.3 litter i think will help with making it more responsive.
After viewing some Dyno graphs of a 35R on a stroked 2.3 littler it looks like it will be great.
I have checked out the Twinscroll setups, the 35R only comes in a .78 A/R
Twinscroll .78 GT35R + 2.3L = RESPONSE!!!!!
So i am also interested in this.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
From: Harrisburg, PA
UPDATES:
The garage finally got the go-ahead from the insurance company.
And they also got the block out of the car and disassembled for the most part.
I have the block in the trunk of there loaner 01 Civic I have been driving
And tomorrow I go to MD to drop off the block to JAM
Here is what we all got and are doing.
JAM 2.3L StageII
OEM Oil Pump
Gasket kit w/ Cometic HG
ARP Head Studs
Power Enterprise Timing belt
Power Enterprise Balance shaft belt
OEM Timing belt Tensioner
Fluidamper
OEM Oil Cooler w/ new lines
I also just got a APS Turbo back exhaust from derek "DS-03evo " (thanks btw)
The car will stay mostly stock other then intake/exhaust for the break in time
I have to try to stay away from boost until after the break in.
Then after that we will put a Hallman MBC i have, a better intake then get it retuned. Then i will work on getting some other stuff like valvetrain/injectors/turbo.. but no rush. I wish i could afford to do the head up while it was off... Who knows, if i can sell my 240 ASAP, then i might get that stuff sooner.
Some pics of the dirty block......
Here is the other engine componets
Here is that Fresh OEM Tranny.. doesnt it look so clean....
The garage finally got the go-ahead from the insurance company.
And they also got the block out of the car and disassembled for the most part.
I have the block in the trunk of there loaner 01 Civic I have been driving
And tomorrow I go to MD to drop off the block to JAM
Here is what we all got and are doing.
JAM 2.3L StageII
OEM Oil Pump
Gasket kit w/ Cometic HG
ARP Head Studs
Power Enterprise Timing belt
Power Enterprise Balance shaft belt
OEM Timing belt Tensioner
Fluidamper
OEM Oil Cooler w/ new lines
I also just got a APS Turbo back exhaust from derek "DS-03evo " (thanks btw)
The car will stay mostly stock other then intake/exhaust for the break in time
I have to try to stay away from boost until after the break in.
Then after that we will put a Hallman MBC i have, a better intake then get it retuned. Then i will work on getting some other stuff like valvetrain/injectors/turbo.. but no rush. I wish i could afford to do the head up while it was off... Who knows, if i can sell my 240 ASAP, then i might get that stuff sooner.
Some pics of the dirty block......
Here is the other engine componets
Here is that Fresh OEM Tranny.. doesnt it look so clean....
Last edited by TomTomTuning; Aug 14, 2007 at 04:35 PM.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 324
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From: Harrisburg, PA
I was thinking about the clutch... but...
The clutch/pressure plate was replace when the new Tranny went in.
(new OEM)
I know i should go with an aftermarket clutch right now. So who knows.
It would probally be the best thing to do next while every thing is apart.
Id want something really streetable, nothing like my 6puck unsprung in my 240. haha
The clutch/pressure plate was replace when the new Tranny went in.
(new OEM)
I know i should go with an aftermarket clutch right now. So who knows.
It would probally be the best thing to do next while every thing is apart.
Id want something really streetable, nothing like my 6puck unsprung in my 240. haha
Does low post count = Inexperience ?
Sure some may be truly new but some have been around for years and just cuz their new to the community doesn't mean they are inexperienced.
TALON TUNER has made solid points. but at the same time he hasn't been clearly reading threw the lines as to which TOM is doing this. Sure that engine can be fixed by any means but sometimes simply fixing it, its not enough when their's possibility to get better... WHY NOT ?
Keep us posted TOM.. once its done go chase that STi as his prob. running around saying how he took an EVO by bus lengths..lol
Last edited by Redline06; Aug 14, 2007 at 08:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 324
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From: Harrisburg, PA
man this is starting to sound really expensive... but still a damn good deal. Put in a exedy twin SD? the ligther one, feels just liek stock, and will hold much much better. Same clutch as the cusco, you could just pick up a used one on here, then send it back to have it rebuild which only costs $200 for the lifetime of the clutch. That'll prob be alot more economical. Man, cars gonna be great when its done.
man this is starting to sound really expensive... but still a damn good deal. Put in a exedy twin SD? the ligther one, feels just liek stock, and will hold much much better. Same clutch as the cusco, you could just pick up a used one on here, then send it back to have it rebuild which only costs $200 for the lifetime of the clutch. That'll prob be alot more economical. Man, cars gonna be great when its done.