There is no happy medium between leaking boost, and surging bucking boost dropping insanity. I should have neither.

Those are the only two adjustments on my knob.
Did they give you a different one?

 

The Forge RS is great for holding boost. At its softest settings, it cured my buck at light throttle tip-in/lift-off in the higher gears. It flutters at partial throttle. From what I understand, the Works valve is a JDM valve with a stiffer spring.

I won't say that I have explored every option with the Forge RS in its adjustability range. I am not sure this is the valve for road racers, though.

 

I guess all the rest of us know nothing about a diverter valve.

Mellon is working on this problem with forge in this link, I wish him luck.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=287186

 

That is not the Forge RS valve

 

just different spring adjustment.

 

Totally not the same thing. Thats the Evo 15 or something like that. The knob is our spring adjustment. And the housing are different sizes between the two.

Closed looped:

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/con...roduct=FMDV006

RS:

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/con...roduct=FMDVRSR

Only 2 settings? There are a lot more than that. Just have to work it one click at a time. But hey, if you dont like it - sell it. Someone else on here would be happy to tune it and run it.

 

yea might wanna make sure you know what bov the thread is talking about before you make yourself out to be a jacka**....

but to be fair i didnt like this bov till i got is set the way the car likes it. i started at the softest setting and went up from there till the car was happy...

this is kinda like the ppl that are crying about bigger turbos surgin in 5th...simple fix...down shift to 4th...

 

You're right, simple fix.
Sell it.

As no range of adjustment cures my absolute suck for sh** part throttle driveability. Or lack there of.

 

Ha, well it was close enough to prove my point.

Totally agree - its a simple fix...just have to mess with it. Mess with it first before bad mouthing a good product. Like I said - if you still dont like it - sell it.

 

My experience with the rs valve is that is nice looking, expensive, does hold boost, but that's it. I sold it and modified the stock valve to hold just as good as the rs when TPS > 3.8 volts (30+psi), but recirculates like stock when TPS < 3.2 volts.

Used a variation to the stop leak method encompassing a solenoid and unused IC spray relay output. I love this mod, I wish I could sell something like this but it's just to much work.

 

what the outside looks like? the design is the same, no diaphragm, no differential. try either one on a road course.

 

Sorry for the earlier confusion, I've got the DV15 valve, with interchangeable springs. With a stiffer (red) spring, it's totally streetable (very minor flutter), and probably would be fine at the drag strip, but on a road course w/ elevation changes it's down right crap. I've talked to Forge about this issue, too, and Forge simply said "that's normal for a non-stock valve." They do not deny the flutter issues.

 

I have raced this whole summer with the RS (well all except Winged Warrior). No issues.

 

why does your sig say "torn DV!" did you change something? and we're not talking about drag racing here.

 

At WW3 I had a bunch of car issues. On the way down the HG went and caused my coolant to become pressurized. Cyl 4 threw massive misfire codes on race day. And my old Greddy Type S melted (also on the way down). So I was up to 3am trying to fix all that. In the end I raced with the dead HG and a band-aid fix for the TypeS. And still took 5th place...

What kind of racing do you want to see? Or should I say where...
Waterford Hills:


GingerMan:


Some GPS data from GingerMan:


Grattan:


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