I know what you guys are thinking, oh god not another intake question. I'm sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but I'm looking for opinions from people that have used various types of intakes.
I've spent the past few weeks reading as much as possible on here and other Evo forums about the ups and downs of different intakes, and I'm still just as confused as when I started about which would be better to run. So far my '03 only has a TBE but I ordered a few other parts for it the past couple days including a Tactrix cable to reflash the stock ecu. I'm not planning for serious power, just what I can get out of the stock turbo for a while, and I'm still up in the air about getting a set of HKS 272 cams. I'm pretty much looking for what would produce the best results for my setup...a panel replacement filter (like a K&N) or an actual full intake piping such as the Buscher Racing piece. So far I've seen mixed results on everything due to the stock maf setup, and would like to avoid the power loss and idle/stalling problems that usually go along with full intakes. I've also read that the stock maf has a tendency to pick up frequencies through metal intake piping that can throw off the reading, along with reversion through the pipe as well. Would I be better off with something like a Perrin rubber intake pipe instead? Sorry about the noob questions, I'm more used to tuning MAP setups than MAF's.

 

Upgrading to a full intake isn't entirely necessary. The stock box has proven to work fine and make power, a drop in filter is all you should need. If you already have a TBE, the next mod you should do is a good manual boost controller. You could also look into getting a LICP, there is good gain from that.

 

I had a Perrin intake system, the hose that go from the turbo to the MAF is made of silicon. With that system, I actually made 10 whp over the Injen intake (the pipe is made of aluminum). But currently I'm using the Injen because I also use their intercooler piping. Hope this will help you.

 

I agree that the question of intake systems is confusing. I've been looking into this for a while also. There seems to be two potential benefits from an aftermarket intake system - less flow restriction from a larger surface area filter and eliminating the rubber MAF-Turbo pipe which has a possibility of partially collapsing under high airflow conditions. The disadvantages are increased noise, cost, uncertainty about the filtration efficiency, poor engineering in some kits, and taking in hot engine compartment air with open filter kits. Another problem is the expense of dry replacement filters. Many of them are ridiculous (>$100) for dry filters.

FWIW, I just purchased an HKS RS intake. It is a bit pricey, but the aluminum MAF-Turbo pipe is very nicely made. It comes with a poor-filtering two layer "wet" filter. I plan to replace it with something else (e.g. K&n cone) and fabricate an intake box similar to the Apex'i unit.

 

Thanks for the replies guys, it's good to hear from people actually using the different pieces. I don't mind the increase in noise from open element filters, but I'm not too keen on sucking in the hotter air from the engine bay. Maybe I'll just look into the Perrin silicone piping and use the stock air box with a drop-in filter and concentrate on upgrading the lower and upper IC piping.
Also since the mbc has been mentioned, I have a left over bleed type mbc from some of my previous boosted honda builds...I know I can make it work on the internal gate, but I have a feeling the initial boost spike before the drop-off is going to be higher than what I want. Should I get a ball and spring type instead? Pretty much I want to take it up to 21psi and tune it for 93 octane (which is all I run anyway), but I want to try and keep the boost at least at a steady 19psi through the entire rpm range. That and a set of ARP headstuds lol.

 

The ball-and-spring MBCs work very well with Mits turbo systems. I use the Hallman RX Pro with my EvoGreen, Nisei intercooler/pipes, and GSC S1 cams. Quick boost buildup with no spiking.

ARP head studs are probably not necessary unless you are running high (>25 psi) boost levels.

 

bump,

does anyone have any experience with the different drop in filters?

k&n, HKS, blitz

 

K&N FTW...can't beat the price too

Stay away from blitz