Would I need to run solid diff bushings like ams recomends with their version or can I stick with my Beatrush eurethane bushings. I tried calling bushur but I just missed them for the day.

 

You can stick with your urethane bushings but we do recommend the aluminum bushings we sell.

 

lol How's that for customer service bud. Typed by the man himself, you can't beat the after hours service.

 

Now my next question: The ends of the moustache bar which mount to the subframe are too wide to slot in. I kinda think this is because of the powder coat/ paint used on the bar but I just want to hear from someone who's installed it before I go at it with a file. Should the bar ends easily slot into the subframe or does it need some fine tuning?

 

Anybody? I want to get back to work on this two minutes ago.

 

You MUST bolt the bar to the rear cover BEFORE you try to bolt the bar to the rear subframe or the bar will seem like it is to fat to slide into the frame. There is no way in hell that the bar will go on to the car if you bolt it to the frame then try and bolt it to the cover

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=308341

 

Ok, so you're saying the bar will EASILY slip into the subframe slots if it is on the diff first? I need to be sure because I am doing this with jackstands on my back so leverage is at a premium. My thinking was to get the bar into the subframe first so that I would only have bolts to thread as opposed to a huge chunk of alu. needing to be forced upwards against the resistance of the bar ends entering the s.f. slots. Why doesn't the bar fit easily into the subframe when both are off the car? FYI I did manage to get the bar almost lined up with the s.f. hole while they were on the ground with only a moderate amount of hammering (using wood of course). What is it exactly that makes this route more dificult?

 

You may also need to gring the aluminum subframe to get it to go in.

 

if you bolt the bar tight to the rear cover it will be very difficult to get it in.. you have to keep it loose but in place. It does take alot of finessing to get it into the subframe evenly cause it is truly an exact fit.. it may seem like the powder coat stops it from going on but just work it in there with w/d40 or liquid wrench. You may need a rubber mallett etc.. I am sure its not easy to do on your back.. ive done 3 of these and they all fit fine once you get the right hang of the install..

 

If you bolt the bar to the frame you will have no room to bolt it to the cover. Bolt it to the cover first... TRUST ME

Like USP Mike said, get a rubber mallett, or wood like you are using and tap it into the back half of the sub frame.

Mike when you installed yours, did you removed the side mounts on the rear diff... I did, found it easier that way to. My first time around when doing something I always try to take off the lease amount of stuff

 

I installed mine last Saturday. As David said we had to grind a little bit the aluminum subframe. A bit hard to install but it paid! Enormous weight savings and I believe that it will stop the rear diff from hitting the chassis...

Of course the vibration more more especially during deceleration but it is quite livable...

Rest of the bushings are stock. Is it mandatory to install them though?

 

Well just beeen checking my car over and the bracket has split in two places !! From the bottom up each side of the bottom bolt . NOT happy ... I will post pics up soon ...

 

neverneverman, I have not seen any of these split, send the pictures directly to me so I can pass them on to the chassis shop. Did you buy it directly from us? If so I will replace it if you send it back to me.

 

what kind of driving do you do? ive been thinking about getting this piece but im concerned about breakage as i use the car to autox a lot

 

bump....I'm concerned also