Q. for anyone w/ buschur moustache bar
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Q. for anyone w/ buschur moustache bar
Would I need to run solid diff bushings like ams recomends with their version or can I stick with my Beatrush eurethane bushings. I tried calling bushur but I just missed them for the day.
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Now my next question: The ends of the moustache bar which mount to the subframe are too wide to slot in. I kinda think this is because of the powder coat/ paint used on the bar but I just want to hear from someone who's installed it before I go at it with a file. Should the bar ends easily slot into the subframe or does it need some fine tuning?
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You MUST bolt the bar to the rear cover BEFORE you try to bolt the bar to the rear subframe or the bar will seem like it is to fat to slide into the frame. There is no way in hell that the bar will go on to the car if you bolt it to the frame then try and bolt it to the cover
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=308341
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=308341
Last edited by vwjeff; Mar 22, 2008 at 01:53 PM.
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Ok, so you're saying the bar will EASILY slip into the subframe slots if it is on the diff first? I need to be sure because I am doing this with jackstands on my back so leverage is at a premium. My thinking was to get the bar into the subframe first so that I would only have bolts to thread as opposed to a huge chunk of alu. needing to be forced upwards against the resistance of the bar ends entering the s.f. slots. Why doesn't the bar fit easily into the subframe when both are off the car? FYI I did manage to get the bar almost lined up with the s.f. hole while they were on the ground with only a moderate amount of hammering (using wood of course). What is it exactly that makes this route more dificult?
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if you bolt the bar tight to the rear cover it will be very difficult to get it in.. you have to keep it loose but in place. It does take alot of finessing to get it into the subframe evenly cause it is truly an exact fit.. it may seem like the powder coat stops it from going on but just work it in there with w/d40 or liquid wrench. You may need a rubber mallett etc.. I am sure its not easy to do on your back.. ive done 3 of these and they all fit fine once you get the right hang of the install..
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If you bolt the bar to the frame you will have no room to bolt it to the cover. Bolt it to the cover first... TRUST ME
Like USP Mike said, get a rubber mallett, or wood like you are using and tap it into the back half of the sub frame.
Mike when you installed yours, did you removed the side mounts on the rear diff... I did, found it easier that way to. My first time around when doing something I always try to take off the lease amount of stuff
Like USP Mike said, get a rubber mallett, or wood like you are using and tap it into the back half of the sub frame.
Mike when you installed yours, did you removed the side mounts on the rear diff... I did, found it easier that way to. My first time around when doing something I always try to take off the lease amount of stuff
Last edited by vwjeff; Mar 22, 2008 at 03:55 PM.
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I installed mine last Saturday. As David said we had to grind a little bit the aluminum subframe. A bit hard to install but it paid! Enormous weight savings and I believe that it will stop the rear diff from hitting the chassis...
Of course the vibration more more especially during deceleration but it is quite livable...
Rest of the bushings are stock. Is it mandatory to install them though?
Of course the vibration more more especially during deceleration but it is quite livable...
Rest of the bushings are stock. Is it mandatory to install them though?