Im wondering which is recommended. A boost pill or boost controller. I plan on having the ecu flashed along with increasing the boost. i currently have a TBE. Will the pill hold boost in the same fashion as a boost controller? Will the boost build as quickly. Id prefer not to have a boost controller displayed inside i the car, since i probably wont be adjusting it much.

From what i understand the ecuflash can adjust boost right?

 

the best method by far is to get your ecu flashed to hold boost by any of the top tuners. Then you can hook up a manual boost controller and up the boost 1-3 psi when you put race gas in but, that's at your own risk.

 

I have the WORKS P2R reflash sinse 2005 and I boost this car daily in the cold and in the heat. The efficiency and the reliability is unmatched. Unless of course you get a full stand alone motec system with MAP sensor and wideband sensors.

 

So just having the ecu flashed, will increase the boost without using the pill? Or will it allow the boost be maintain longer before dropping?

 

You can easily control boost [better than an MBC] with the factory ECU and either a professional tuner or reading a few HowTos in the EcuFlash forum / section. Based upon your post I am guessing you are going to run the car on 91 octane and probably be ~21 psi. I have controlled boost with both the factory ECU/BCS setup and now the GM-3 port BCS.

Save yourself the $75 - 100 (cost of MBC), use the factory BCS, keep the over-boost failsafes, and control boost better....

 

It will both increase boost and hold the boost untill redline where it falls off 1 or 2 psi whereas the stock falls off 3-4 psi.

 

^ Your statement is misleading / incorrect...When you change the boost, you will hit different load cells (that were not tuned) and will result in less than an optimal setup.

Get the tune for your application (pump, pump + alk, race) and use accordingly.

 

of course you do know the draw backs of tuning the car yourself if you are in no way inclined about your car. BOOM!

 

yes that's exactly why I said, "at your own risk"

 

^ You appear to be missing the point...

OP -- Use either (1) the ecu & bcs to control boost (can easily hit 30+ psi if you know what you are doing), (2) use the gm-3 port bcs in conjunction with the ecu, (3) use the jdm map sensor in conjunction with the ecu, or (4) use an MBC . The first three options will give you the best boost control.

Once you have decided upon your boost control technique, find a tuner skilled with the setup of your choice (or ask the tuner you like which approach they would recommend). Whatever you do, don't tune the car to a certain psi and then change the boost without retuning.

Best of luck...

 

Excellent desription.

does any of the above methods allow boost to come on faster or hold boost longer before dropping off?

 

Yes...All of the ECU based setups will allow you to hold more boost on the top end as compared to the MBC. I have found that the GM-3 port helped spool time, very slightly, over the stock bcs and MBC. Another option I failed to mentioned, but is much more expensive, is an EBC. An EBC is great because you can actually have gear and speed specific boost curves, although for a street application I think the stock BCS or GM-3 port options to be more than adequate.

If you have anymore questions, feel free to PM me or better yet go to the Ecuflash section of the site and read a few posts...The group that frequent that area have done an excellent job of documenting How Tos, advantages, setups, etc.