7200 miles and 1 5k rpm clutch drop.

No clutch issues.

 

From what I've read, the clutch is fine. The problem seems to stem from a weak pressure plate and a valve that slows clutch engagement.

 

it has been mitsubishi's clutch since the galant VR4, evo I-VIII, but if you drop your clutch everytime, wear on these parts are exponential, unless you know how to adjust it everytime you feel like it is slipping, which I have been preaching on previous threads.

 

I got 8K and it still works fine. I drive the car hard, but really don't do too many hard launches.

 

I'm not following, what do you mean?

 

Guys ask any pro, YOU CAN"T DROP THE CLUTCH LIKE ON A FRONT WHEEL OR REAR WHEEL DRIVE CAR,its all wheel drive and its a rally car,not a dragstrip car,come on now,ask any professional,not some guy whoraced a few races and calls him self a pro.I think Mitsu.designer know what they are doin better than us,thats why they get paid the way they did, so this tread is a direct insult to the people who designed,put this car together,and fought to get it in the states just so people ca complain and *****!I would hate to be them and read this!

 

I used the term clutch collectively, it is the pressure plate. The restrictor is not the problem and would work great if the pressure plate had more pressure. From the people who have already posted on the replacement it seems that once you it slips a couple times it is glazed and that is the end of it. A decent pressure plate would still have enough clamping force to still make it grab.

All the people with low miles it's fine if you have no problems yet. I am not talking about hard launches, either. We'll see how everyone's clutch is after 10K or so.

 

since the clutch normally wears out, it is important to check for the clutch pedal travel, at what point in the travel it engages(car is moving) and yet easy to change the gears. since our clutch is not the cable wire type instead a fluid type, adjustment is under the dash, where the rod and clevis pin is connected to push the master cylinder. there is no adjustment in the slave cylinder as some would like to believe. adjusting this rod by shortening it to push the master cylinder, is by turning the rod once you have loosened the lock nut. it will make the clutch engage quicker and prevent slippage.

 

5500, no problems. I've launched dozens of times. i think ill have to agree, you just cant launch it like a front wheel drive.

 

Did it always chatter? Mine does the same but only started after about 1000 miles.

 

Mine does it a little too. Just started around 1600 miles.

 

sry fellas im ineligable NOW but bak when we were at 3200, before the HKS clutch it did feel ****ty, and like it had been really abused

 

All the adjustment at the pedal does it determine how much freeplay the rod has to the clutch master cylinder. More freeplay doesn't mean more clamp from the pressure plate unless the hydraulics were adjusted to the point of preload to begin with. The pressure plate at 2200lb is pretty strong and the disc friction material is the good stuff out of Japan (same as RX7TT, WRX, etc.) so I think the restrictor in the hydraulics has a lot to do with it. A stronger pressure plate will help but I don't think that's the problem folks are having with premature wear.

 

how do you adjust a hydrolic clutch??? i have never seen or heard of this. i thought that was one of the advanatages... no adjustment plus less pedal effort.

 

Well it seems the restrictor is there to cushion the blow of dumping the clutch (so to speak). It appears that once it starts to slip, the pressure plate does not have enough load to clamp it down and it continues to slip more than it should.
Do you not agree?

A good pressure plate load will clamp down on a clutch even if it is slipping, where as a weak clamping force will allow the slippage to go on longer. No one with the restrictor has reported back on this forum whether they had to replace the clutch even after the restrictor removed. Not all the failures seem to be from hard launchers or from 1 launch glazing the clutch so bad that it no longer grabs properly.

So ACTman is it your belief that the reistrictor is the real cause of the premature failures and not the lack of clamping force from the pressure plate? Not all of us dump the clutch at 5K and I still feel the clutch will not last as you would expect. The other issue is the radial springs in the clutch disk will see harsher loads with the resitrictor out because it is no longer getting any help from the hydraulic circuit. I have seen my fair share of broken springs or springs partially exiting their retainers. That is a potential down side to the restrictor removal. Either way the clutch fails, though.

I want to thank ACT for coming on this forum and giving feedback.
Obviously, many of us knew who they were and the quality of their product. I am glad they are looking into this issue and coming up with a reasonable solution.