i hope more people respond in this thread. i haven't seen a thread directly questioning like this after all the searches i've done.

i just gotta say thanks for you inputs so far!

 

Here is the bottom line on the intakes.

IF you buy just our open element filter kit you can bolt it onto your EVO with or without tuning. It will work fine without a tune, no issues.

You can also add the MAF pipe without problems BUT if you are running 272 cams or larger and using the stock computer then I suggest NOT getting the MAF pipe and just leaving the stock rubber intake in place. With large cams and the stock MAF the best way to get good idle is to leave the stock rubber turbo inlet hose.

 

True your Fuel map is open loop. So it would make sense that the tune would not effect your fuel trims while cruising. HUH great points. We'll have to see if one of the ECUFlash gurus can chime in. Like I said I have no driveability issues. I also have seen many tuners maps with cars with intakes (and as I cant coment on all those cars drivability. I know that there was no tweaking of the Maf scaling or smoothing)

My car falls to a perfect idle at every stop light. Only time I have an issue is the first couple of drives after the battery was disconnected. Computer Relearning FTW

4WS, Al, Dave, Chad, Mellon. Where are you guys.

Im way more mechanical then I know the fine tuning end of things. I know enough to get by but I try to stick with turning the wrench if you know what I mean Ill pull the whole car apart but leave tuning to my man 4WS.

 

ok, so your maf pipe and filter kit will not make my car run rich and almost stall when coming to a stop, correct? (if my car has stock cams)

 

I figured thats what you meant by drivability. Im not trying to plug intakes at all here just cause I have one but only time I sugre falling to an idle is those first few drives after the battery was disconnected

 

so what do you do if you don't have stock cams (272 and larger)? what will you need to adjust to get the idle correct and not surge when coming to a stop? any one?

 

i take that back. if the BR intake does not have any issues with surging when coming to a stop with stock cams, then it wouldn't be the BR intake's fault if it surges with bigger cams, correct? you would be looking at a different issue. or, could bigger cams have an effect on how the maf reads? (which i think is impossible) so, correct me if i am wrong.

 

I have 272's and all we did to get them idleing 100% was adjust the idle setting in the ECU. I dont have gears

 

thats what i thought. or you could get adjustable gears and retard the intake maybe 3 and exhaust 1 to get good vacuum and good idle. or you can advance ignition timing at idle to about 15-19 to get good idle and good vacuum.

but, so the cams wouldn't make the car's maf read incorrectly..correct? and this would mean it would not be the intake's fault.

someone answer me so i can buy a buschur intake! aha

 

So...
If we don't currently have cams, but plan on installing a set of 272s in the future, should we just stick with Buschur's filter (NOT including the MAF pipe) only because of drivability issues regarding the stock MAF?

Would there be any real significant gain from the MAF pipe over the stock intake pipe with the Buschur filter? I'm ordering an intake soon and just want to make sure I have all my facts straight before I do anything.

 

Why even switch from the stock rubber intake. Do you believe that there is a power loss there? A cone filter and maf adapter will retain stock idle and driveability. I just tried and AMS intake pipe on my 50 trim and had all sorts of issues. Switched back to the stock intake with a reducer from the turbo to rubber intake pipe and it is back to stock idle and driveability. I am sure all of these issues can be tuned out, but why bother. I can not believe that there is any restriction in the pipe.

 

I mean sure there isn't a huge gain to be had with any open element air filter, but it isn't a terribly expensive mod either. Especially considering I bought a K&N panel filter that did little to nothing when I could have spend the same money on the cone. I'm guessing ~5 WHP with a cone over stock airbox.

The intake wasn't the only mod I was doing btw. I have a handful of bolt-ons I was installing plus a tune, but for $80 I was like "Why not?" lol

 

You misread my post. There is a gain fron a the stock box,to a cone filter I just don't believe that there is one to be had going to a hard pipe from the rubber one.

 

so u "believe"? of is it a proven fact?

well, i believe that if u do go with a hard pipe, and rescale the maf, there are going to be gains and no drivability issues.

 

Wow, I wonder that my custom CAI is doing to the MAF readings. I've always had idling issues, even when I had a short ram (RMR) style intake. I figured it was due to the cams.

So you guys are saying, if I adjust my MAF scaling, I can achieve a more stable idle?