I currently have the RMR down pipe, Greddy type-S DV, 3" test pipe, and a stock replacement K&N filter. I have also installed a Turbo XS MBC but for these runs it was essentially running stock boost (19 PSI tappering to around 17 PSI). Even with the MBC I cannot seem to get this thing to maintain boost throughout the RPM range, it does not tapper off quite as bad as the stock system but it is not much better. If I set it to 22PSI it tapers to 19, if I set it 21 it tappers to mid 18..... I am hoping when I get the full exhaust (next week supposedly) it will hold boost better, otherwise I may need to get an EBC (like the Profec B).

On this Graph I did a run at an EVO dyno day this past saturday, with the above mentioned set up, temp was around 95 degrees and fairly humid 70's, it made 253.6HP. I then bought new synthetic lubricants for the entire drive train and engine, Red Line MT-90 for the transaxle, 75-90 for front and rear diff's, and 10-30 for the engine.
After replacing all of the fluids I immediatly noticed an improvement in the shifting action and syncro/gear engagement. I also could swear that the car seemed a bit faster and launched much easier. Without changing anything I went back to the same dyno and made a couple of more pulls. It was actually hotter on the second day 100 Degrees and even more humid, this is my fourth session at this dyno and even though it does correct for tempreature, on the coolers days my car has made more power with identical setup on these cooler days. The owner/operator (Jason) also confirmed that with other cars his dyno did not seem to adequatly compensate for temperature variations, (in the evenings when it cooled down he would see higher power values without making any changes to the car (especially turbo cars).

So with all that being said check out the graph, on the hotter day the car still made 3 more HP, with the only difference being the synthetic drive fluids. Redline claims that there lubricants signifcantly improve drive train and engine efficiency, and even though this test may not be perfect, I believe.

 

After 2-3 runs with consistant readings (less tan 1 HP variation) I upped the boost a couple of pounds, it would momentarily spike to almost 21 PSI then drop to 20 and then tapper to mid/high 18's at red line.

 

Here is a stock STI on the same dyno (owned by Jason) most likely on an at least slightly cooler day.

 

Here is my original bone stock dyno run temp was about mid 80's.

 

You need a safc. You will at least pick up 20hp with tuning. Best bang for the buck mod.

 

Very nice Numbers!!!!!

 

Oh believe me I know, already have a wide band FJO O2 permanently installed, along with EGT, boost, and oil temp. I am ready for some tunning, but I am waiting for the Apex Power FC computer, it cost a bit more ($800-$900) but it should blow the doors off of all the fuel/ignition timing systems currently available. My good friend who sells this stuff tells me they are in final testing/production right now for the EVO VIII, he expects delivery of the first production run in the next 3-6 weeks, one of them has my name on it.
I should have the rest of the exhaust system next week, with fuel/ignition timing, full 3" exhaust, and a set of cams (hks 264), I am expecting/hoping to make mid/low 300's , that should keep me happy for a while,,,,I think .
I don't drag race, but I am sure that shortly after all that I am going to need a new clutch, from what I hear/read the twin disk exedy sounds like it might be the way to go.
Then I will be all set oh and I ordered a Perrin short shifter, and I will need some new brake pads, and some 2pc rotors, and maybe some minor suspension stuff. Unless I drive a car with coil overs and decide that I can't live without them, oh and I'l need tires and a 5 pt harness, and ahhhhhh some body stop me And this is my daily driver, I already have over 9000 miles which include 3 track days, (Oh BTW I efin love this car )

I'm sick, send money

How do you make a small fortune racing/play with cars? Start with a big one

 

Have you ever tested the a/f on a dyno's wideband and then took the car to the streets to see the variance? This info is would be invaluable. I've heard theres is a .3 variance from the dyno to the streets but that's a rumor.

 

Silver are you coming out to Texas Motor Speedway tomorrow morning?

 

While I can now see the A/F ratio's I haven't any way to tune yet , at WOT it quickly maxes out the wide band at 10, so there is not much to see right now.
My last car (93 RX7) also had a wide band permenantly installed, and I can tell you based on tunnig that car that I have found A/F ratios do run leaner (.3-.5 easy) on the street.
Unless you have your dyno in a wind tunnel, no fan is going to match the air flow your car will see going down the road 60, 90, or possibly 150MPH . While there are intake air and fuel temp correction maps, they were never intended to correct for the differences encountered on a chassis dyno. This is one reason why a responsible tunner set's such conservative fuel curves, mid to low 11's is a very conservative A/F ratio.
I always fine tune fuel curves on the street, hence the permenent wide band. You need a deserted road, data logging, or an assistant, but it's definiately more accurate.

 

Thanks for the info SILVER SURFER.

 

Your right A/F lean out 0.5/1 and on some cars even more so on the street. Being a RX7 guy I'm just going to asume you ran the Power FC in that car??? How are the base maps?? I hear it's a stand Alone with out all the pain the rear tuning of a ture stand alone is that ture?? I would be willing to pay with a Power FC on my owen car.

Eric

 

Well actually I had owned that car since new, it was the original test mule for RX7.com, long before they had there own 3rd gen. I started out with a piggy back system, they are ok up to a point. When I needed a full engine management system the Power FC was not available for the 3rd gen RX7 so I went with a Haltech, (it wasn't out of date then). When the Power FC came out I didn't have the stock harness/sensors any more so....
I recently sold the car to one of the owners of RX7.COM, the first thing they did was pull out the Haltech and re-installed the stock harness and a Power-FC (obviously they swear by it).
The Power FC is available for some of the earlier versions of the EVO, including the VII. The reports I have read from EVO owners in other parts of the world have been extremely positive, perhaps some of them will provide feed back on this thread.
Everything I am about to tell you about the Power FC should be correct, but it is second hand so....
The Power FC is truly a plug and play system, you simply remove the stock ECU and plug the PFC ECU in it's place. It operates everything that the stock ECU does (including emmission control systems), but there is no OBD II, so you will never get a code/malfunction because of a disconnected seloniod or an out of tolerance sensor value. Because of this it is not technically street legal in the US.
It is supposed to come pre-loaded with an exact duplicate of the factory maps/control functions, so there is no having to re-invent the wheel regarding fuel/ignition maps. There is an optional controller key pad (PFC commander) that allows personal owners to adjust, fuel, ignition, and boost maps. It will also allow you to monitor any and all engine sensors (up to 4 or 5 at a time), like boost, A/F, intake air and water temps, the stock knock sensor, etc. There is a data logging software option, and I believe we will be able to upload/download maps with a PC.
This system has an excellent reputation and has been used on the EVO for years, so the possability of an unforseen software/hardware bug is much slimmer than the new systems being developed here in the US.
I was originally supposed to have the EVO VIII PFC by now, there were supposedly minor hardware changes between the VII and VIII, which have already been sorted out. They were initially going to send them over with the stock J-SPEC ECU maps but then thought better of it (especially with the crappy CA gas). So I am not sure if we are now initially getting the stock US maps or a modified version of the J-SPEC maps tunned for our lower octane or what. Not that it matters that much, because you or your favorite tunner can adjust them to what ever you want.

 

Great info thank you!!!!

I have read a lot about the power fc and I love the unit. Not ever getting to play with one my self I think if it had the same base map as the Factory ECU it would be a great start for most people. That's why piggy backs are so nice. Does the Power FC retard ing when the car knocks??

Yet again thank you for your help.

 

Hey silver surfer check out this quick thread on the buschurracing forum. Maybe you had the same error occur when your blow off valve was installed.

http://www.buschurracing.com/cgi-bin.....&&category=4