The 3076 is close to the 3065 but not quite there. The 3065 is half 30R half 35R, there is no way a 3076 should be able to compete with a 3065 in the upper third of the rev range but down low and in the mid range it should be superior in everyway.

Scorke

 

the stock ECU for the evos is fine for your application. no need for any piggy backs, stand alone, or other gimmicks if you were doing multiple tunes on the same setup (say for race gas and one for pump gas), then something like the access port might help you out (although the same thing can be achieved with the tactrix cable and a laptop). but you specified you were only running pump. so stay with the stock ecu and have a good tuner tune it for you (with a wideband of course).

i'm sure the head work will help, maybe allow you to rev higher if you replace the pistons/rods as well while the head is off. however, i think with the 3076, you can save yourself a fortune by leaving the head on the car... drop some cams in it and call it a day. you said money is no issue, but i can think of better ways to spend a few grand on your evo that will make far bigger improvements to the driveability.

 

will the stock ECU have problems with fuel cut, or will the larger injectors solve that? is it ok to use a FPR with the stock ECU? How will the BR COP respond with a stock ECU? What boost controller do you recommend if not using the EMS? The STi has a five year old Greddy Profec-B Spec II on it and it is easy to use, has repeatable, consistent results, and takes a beating.

At this point, I'm not trying to go bang/buck. The cylinder head and HKS cams were mine for $1000 cash, brand new - stock valve train. If I have to spend $5000 to get 2-300rpm more spool, I'm willing to do it at this point. The only thing I'm not willing to do is an aftermarket rod/piston setup. I'm sure that will come in the future when I am content with this build. I could just sell of the head (based on recommendations here, from AMS, and BR, I'm going to resell the cams), but if that head buys me even a little bit down low or even the smallest bit of spool, it's worth it.

on a side note: you don't have an account on PT do you?

 

jarrod @ buschur said there will be no hta 3065...i pmed him specifically about it.

 

the stock ecu will work with an aftermarket FPR. however, with a 3076 on pump its not needed. you will need bigger injectors though but not by much. i would consider 780cc/min injectors if your running straight pump only (680's might even do the trick).

the COP setup is also not needed. stock ignition will work just fine (and be far less troublesome... many COP and ignition amplifiers have all sorts of problems. not to sure about the buschur setup though.

the profec B spec 2 will work great (i run one too).


also, if your willing to spend 5000 dollars on 200-300 rpm quicker spool, consider trying the green turbo instead. also, if the spool is that big of an issue, stay with the stock intercooler. less volume is faster spool. sense you already have a spare head, might as well build it up and use it, but i don't think its going to help spool any (at least not significantly, flow up top will definitely be improved though). last if you want to get some better spool, put an adjustable cam gear on the exhaust cam and play with that along with the mivec map. i think that alone could get you your 300rpm spool.


just a quick question, what were you thinking the 3076 is going to make power at? here is a post i made comparing different spoolup characteristics with various turbos.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...+35r+30r+green


and whats PT? is it a forum?

 

you will not be able to pass emissions with the ams intake manifold.

 

why is that?


Kevin:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ight=full+race

max torque is right around 4000, perfect to me. and it lasts for a good while - that seems like a very usable powerband to me. now if I could get that up over ~400wtq. with supporting mods, I think I'd be happy. PT is a forum. Someone is a supermod there with the same name I guess.

AMS just wrote me back again and informed me that they thought the head in question would be an absolute waste of time since it has stock-sized valves. They told me to step up to a higher stage SBR head or their race head, and I asked if that head is going to make only power up top or if it will help me down below - awaiting response - very helpful technical info from them as usual.

 

^ no EGR on the AMS intake manifold.

 

Thanks for the heads up, the part listing on AMS seems to imply you can choose to retain or remove the EGR. Looks like some more custom modifications are in order.

If the EVO manifold works internally anything like the Cobra or my Probe, all I should need to have done is a hole drilled and a fitting welded to accept the line. My local inspection has no problem with modified cars so long as all the emissions equipment is visually retained and it passes a sniffer.

 

Room for some questions from a guy who has similar thinking to you?

 

Well, just got off the phone with SBR, who completely contradicted everything I had been told by AMS - great...

Get the stage III head - anything less is only good on a 1g or 2g to EVO head swap upgrade. The stage III head is simply a stock head that's been cleaned up and given a valve job and very, very minor port work and massaging has been done to the intake and exhaust side to maximize low-end velocity and usable rpm range. The stage 5 head is listed as the most extreme cylinder head for a street car and the stage 6 head uses +1 valves and is comparable to a AMS race or BR race head. Unfortunately, as I feared, both are geared towards huge hogging jobs to maximize high-lift flow numbers and make a trillion horsepower, which comes at the sacrifice of low-lift velocity...AKA...not for me. They also recommended I get the stage 3 since I already have the supertech valvetrain - the stock valvetrain is included in the stage 3 for no cost. why pay more for the higher stages when a big chunk of the price is the aftermarket valvetrain.

So maybe my purchase of the SBRIII wasn't a waste. I understand AMS's point about how stock sized valves won't flow really any different than a stock head and a stock head is really, really good, but I'm trying to maximize a setup, and sometimes that means buying a head for $1000 that is only going to give me a few horsepower. They also agreed with the choice of either Tomei's or HKS 264/272 combination.

 

ABSOLUTELY! Dear god I thought I was the only street car on Earth!

 

OK:

Current car. Subaru LegacyGT (Same block as STI) 340wtq/340whp, BBK, coil-overs, blah blah blah, real sleeper, I like the fact that I hit 15 psi by 3000 rpm (3rd gear, unless it is 100F)

$30K Cad into the car.
DD
I live in Canada, and I highly value AWD, besides I like to have fun all seasons.
Pump gas, but I like to use alky injection as well.

Looking for about the same thing out of an EVO:
This time I want a bulletproof set-up that will make 400 whp, but I still want 15 psi by 3k.
I am thinking TS, I like Geoff's stuff.
Like my Suby, I need the car to last 6 years or so.

Obviously with meth I can use a smaller turbo then the OP to acheive whp goals, thus spooling better.

I would own an Audi RS4, but it is soo frigging heavy and slow. I would consider a used 911 turbo, but I need a 4 door.

What are your guys suggestions?

 

^completely read your post wrong. If you want a good reliable 400 whp with meth get a 9. ix on stock ecu, stock turbo and minor bolt ons plus some cams and meth will get you exactly where you want to be and hit boost FAST.

 

here's a joke, retail prices (as many EvoM vendors as I could) before shipping, cores, discounts, tax, or used parts prices:

head: $1076.10
cams: $1050.00 (includes pullies)
springs: $393.00
turbo: $6863.00
studs: $269.99
studs: $65.00
bolts: $49.00
EBC: $344.96
clutch: $1650.00
IM: $999.95
pump: $109.95
inj.'s: $340.00
rail: $174.95
cat: $194.95
catback: $624.95

$14205.80

That price doesn't even include head gasket, etc. all the small items you know I'm going to need. Suspension, axles, gauges, wideband, dyno tune, shifter, motor mounts, bushings, anything that breaks, safety equipment to run that time, etc.

That is actually A LOT cheaper than I thought it would be. I know that number sounds retarted, but you all know how it is, you usually get one or two of the big things once or twice a year, and the small stuff piecemeal, you find deals, etc. When I did my Probe (the SIXTH time...), it was well over $30,000 into a $3000 (at best) car, and that was with most of the pieces being fabricated by myself. Cars are stupid expensive, but if you just take it one piece at a time, you trick yourself into forgetting how much money you waste.