criteria: importance on fun, mild street car - fast spool must - good torque must
retain cat, emissions equipment, p/s, a/c, full interior, street tires, etc RELIABLE, STOCK BLOCK
must not: nitrous, meth/alcohol/water, race gas

I understand in order to get fast and reliable, you must spend $$$. Therefore, assume money is no object. I am seriously understanding that this build may be in the $10k+ range. Cars are never 'worth it', but if I can run 11s and still enjoy the car and have a big, broad powerband that pulls like a train and scares me without worrying whether it's going boom, I'll be happy for that cost.

red is my edits based on recommendations here, from BR employees, and AMS employees

VIII MR
Slowboy Racing Stage 3 head
head specs: http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/...at=5338&page=1
Tomei 260 camshafts + Tomei timing gears
ARP head studs, supertech dual springs
Full Race GT3076R twin scroll
http://www.full-race.com/catalog/pro...8a24c504e739da
Walbro 255lph
AMS fuel rail
AMS 780cc injectors
AMS cat + catback
stock ECU flash
Greddy Profec-B Spec II
Exedy HD twin disk
ARP main stud kit
ARP rod bolts

why I chose what I chose: nothing seems to spool like a twin scroll. I think a 35r on 93 octane would grenade a stock bottom end during daily abuse. trying for 400+wtq and 11sec timeslip. the F-R kit has short intercooler piping, which should promote spool as well. all the big cars (even 2.0's) seem to be doing it with serious head work and cams - I think the stage3 is a good blend of work with practicality, as are the cams. the fuel kit will look good and give me room to expand, it's a return system so I am not worried about too much. AMS recommends the twin disk, EMS, and BR COP kit for these power levels, and the intake manifold just seems to be a money issue for most.


questions:
correct head selection for what I want (fast spool), or are the ports 'too large' and going to kill low end velocity = bad torque down low and slow spool
how about the cams? trying to run some good timing on the tune to spool this thing
what's going to break? replace anything ahead of time? axles?




Thanks for any input anyone can offer.

 

I would wait and see how the HTA3065 turns out. Kit is gonna be much cheaper than the full race kit. Probably make a little more power due to a larger turbo but very fast spool. I would select better cams though. Tomei's are great if you have the money. Add a 2.3 stroker if you want even better spool. That with a built head and rev to 8k. Would be a bad *** DD. Everything else you listed will be fine.

 

I am not interested in building the motor, or stroking it. One of the goals to accomplish is to prove that the correct combination of parts can result in fast and fun setups on stock-bottom end cars, that you don't need increased displacement and a huge snail to make good/fun numbers - just the correctly sized turbocharger and supporting modifications.

The intercooler piping is why I really like the F-R kit, but I'll keep what you said in mind about the HTA kit. From putting a front mount on an STi, there is noticeable lag with longer piping.

When you say Tomei's are better, in what way do you mean? Spool? Top end? Price is my last, if any, concern. Thanks for your input about the head/cams - my key question area and seemingly the great unknown on these setups.

 

Tomei cams will spool faster and pull more up top. HKS cams are mediocre. You say 11's but low or high? I do high 11's with bolt ons. On pump a 3065 will put you around 470awhp with the ems and the other parts you are talking about. If you are a good driver that is easy an 11 flat high 10 second car. Buschur also has some good cams for larger turbo's. Give them a call. Just did a 3065 build with them. Very helpful. They will have everything you need.

 

You are referencing the Poncam 260's? I was under-rating my numbers a little just to be on the safe side, but yes I think the car has a threat to be in the 470whp+ range and in the high 10s if I can get it out of the hole on street tires. Most of the guys I see with these combos though are running alky, slicks, race gas, or a combination of those. I am hoping the unique setup - especially the IM, headwork, will make up for their alternative fuels.

If this car made high 10s without breaking something on every run and had a powerband for 3.5K or more, that would certainly be worth the money. Not many cars can claim that, especially not 4cyls on street tires and still be competent on the street and in handling.

 

You don't need a set of slicks to go 10's. It will help but a nice soft walled tire should do it. Maybe something a little wider. Adding meth or race gas will put you at high 500awhp. 470 is very doable with AEM EMS. I think the HTA3065 is gonna spool at 4k maybe even 3800. A built head will let you take it out pretty high but might no be efficient for the turbo. 8k would be good. After that you need to delete the balance shafts which involves taking the motor out. I think you will like the setup. You really aren't building a race car. All you need is good driving skills.

 

Also a couple people make short route intercooler piping. Buschur, AMS, and ETS are great quality. I just cant see spending 9k on a turbo kit just to run 11's. If money is no option sell the evo and get a ford GT. Handles better than our car. Runs 11's stock and the women throw their underwear at it.

 

the 1000 hp fuel kit is overkill. a walbro will do just fine. also the stock ecu will acomplish anything you want with that setup... also AEM you lose the ability to pass emissions, stock ecu you'll be good.

the manifold is going to hurt your torque though.. it will help HP up top.


the ams 3076 kit is pretty sweet though. i've tuned a couple of them and booth pull hard (really hard on meth and 31psi

 

oh, and and no way the IM and headwork will make up for not using alternate fuels like C16 or meth. meth is good for 75+ whp on a 3076.

 

I could not find any of those three on their sites, could you zip me a link (preferably the AMS...yes, I am a fanboy. met the car, driver, some of the crew when they first started racing...very cool people!) From what I have read, balance shaft removal results in very vibration-idle NVH qualities. Nope!

I get your point about the GT though, albeit an extreme example.

 

Full-race 3076 TS
Exedy twin disc HD
880 cc injectors
Walboro 255 fuel pump
3" TBE
Flash tune or AEM

This should net you a DD 11's street monster. Like ealier poster said, You may want to wait for the HTA3065.

 

Thanks, I did not know that about the AEM. We did the STi on the AccessPort, any reason not to go with it on the EVO?

Still wondering where the headwork will help me. Obviously up top, but if I was concerned with that I'd be picking much larger than a 30R. Anything in the low to mid you think?

 

When is this long awaited HTA3065 coming out..

i beleive i have heard somewhere that its never coming out.

 

+1

 

for what i have seen, the 3076r ~= to the 3065. the full race ture twin scroll 3076r is bad ***. havent herd anything about the 3065HTA but i guess only time will tell