Transmission and Differential Fluid Change
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Transmission and Differential Fluid Change
Changed my transmission and center differential fluids at 3500 miles.
Wish I'd taken pictures.
Notes:
Drain plugs are HUGE (you'll need extra large metric sockets)
BOTH plugs are magnetic from the factory.
At 3500, BOTH of my magnetic plugs were absolutely COATED with magnetic residue.
Be VERY careful reading the specs for these fluids - the transmission calls for GL-4 transmission fluid. The center diff calls for GL-5 fluid. Although GL-5 fulfills the requirements for GL-4, it MAY be a little too slippery for synchros to engage properly. Mitsubishi went out of their way to specify GL-4 for the tranny, so I'd take that to heart.
Shawn
Wish I'd taken pictures.
Notes:
Drain plugs are HUGE (you'll need extra large metric sockets)
BOTH plugs are magnetic from the factory.
At 3500, BOTH of my magnetic plugs were absolutely COATED with magnetic residue.
Be VERY careful reading the specs for these fluids - the transmission calls for GL-4 transmission fluid. The center diff calls for GL-5 fluid. Although GL-5 fulfills the requirements for GL-4, it MAY be a little too slippery for synchros to engage properly. Mitsubishi went out of their way to specify GL-4 for the tranny, so I'd take that to heart.
Shawn
The manual says to do it at 15,000 on the severe schedule. I checked that myself yesterday since I'm getting close to 9k and was thinking of doing my trannies and brake fluid at 10k. I've been doing oil changes at the oil company recommended 3k miles, which is an even closer interval than the 3,750 that Mitsu and a lot of other manufacturers recommend.
EDIT: I probably will try to follow the GL specs Mitsu recommends, too. The tranny and rear diff will need something with a little more friction, at least that's my guess. For the synchros in the tranny and the clutch-type LSD in the rear. For the transfer case you probably don't need those friction additives since the viscous coupler is sealed and it's just a bunch of gears. I'll have to see what Mitsu recommends again for the three different pieces.
EDIT: I probably will try to follow the GL specs Mitsu recommends, too. The tranny and rear diff will need something with a little more friction, at least that's my guess. For the synchros in the tranny and the clutch-type LSD in the rear. For the transfer case you probably don't need those friction additives since the viscous coupler is sealed and it's just a bunch of gears. I'll have to see what Mitsu recommends again for the three different pieces.
Last edited by iodine23; Jul 20, 2003 at 09:34 AM.
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I realize that we don't "have to" change fluids this early, but why not? I found TONS of metal on those magnetic plugs that should be removed as early as possible.
It's simply cheap insurance.
3 quarts RedLine MT-90 at $7.95 a quart
1 quart RedLine 75-90 GL-5 at $7.95 a quart.
Compared to my $30,000+ evo, it's chump change.
Shawn
It's simply cheap insurance.
3 quarts RedLine MT-90 at $7.95 a quart
1 quart RedLine 75-90 GL-5 at $7.95 a quart.
Compared to my $30,000+ evo, it's chump change.
Shawn
I also changed all of my drive lubricants to Red Line, you might find this interesting. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=31201
As long as the metal on the magnet is very small bits, there is nothing to worry about. The gears are normally not smoothed on the edges when they are cut, so as you get miles those edges smooth out and end up on the magnet.
Synchros are metal rings with clutch material on the inside. Unless you grind on shifts you won't get much metal from them. When the clutch material breaks or burns up you really can't tell from the oil usually.
Synchros are metal rings with clutch material on the inside. Unless you grind on shifts you won't get much metal from them. When the clutch material breaks or burns up you really can't tell from the oil usually.
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From: dublin, oxford, chillicothe OH
Originally posted by imnobody
does the manual say to change it at 3500?
imma go look and mark my checkups on my calander from now on
since i have like 26 on it now
does the manual say to change it at 3500?
imma go look and mark my checkups on my calander from now on
since i have like 26 on it now
Thousand or just 26!
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Originally posted by timzcat
As long as the metal on the magnet is very small bits, there is nothing to worry about. The gears are normally not smoothed on the edges when they are cut, so as you get miles those edges smooth out and end up on the magnet.
Synchros are metal rings with clutch material on the inside. Unless you grind on shifts you won't get much metal from them. When the clutch material breaks or burns up you really can't tell from the oil usually.
As long as the metal on the magnet is very small bits, there is nothing to worry about. The gears are normally not smoothed on the edges when they are cut, so as you get miles those edges smooth out and end up on the magnet.
Synchros are metal rings with clutch material on the inside. Unless you grind on shifts you won't get much metal from them. When the clutch material breaks or burns up you really can't tell from the oil usually.
Shawn
Sorry for the newbie question, but just how difficult is this to do. I've a few minor bolt-ons in my previous car but, I never considered changing the tranny fluid myself. And Silversurfer is an efin pimp, good job man!!!
I used Redline Shockproof (heavyweight) in both the tranny and transfercase, havent touched the rear diff yet though I have noticed it is rachety as hell when it starts shifting power around.
I went with shockproof to try and quite down the decel noise, which it did not so I'm rather convenced that the audible portion of the decel noise is not coming from the back faces of the gears as mitsu claims, but rather the clutch assembly.
So, I'll probably swap out he fluids again and go with the same goodness that you used Shawn.
I went with shockproof to try and quite down the decel noise, which it did not so I'm rather convenced that the audible portion of the decel noise is not coming from the back faces of the gears as mitsu claims, but rather the clutch assembly.
So, I'll probably swap out he fluids again and go with the same goodness that you used Shawn.
Originally posted by shawnhayes
I know that it isn't necessarily a sign of damage to the internal portions of the vehicle, but would you wait 15,000 miles to change the tranny and diff fluid? After seeing that, I certainly am glad that I didn't.
Shawn
I know that it isn't necessarily a sign of damage to the internal portions of the vehicle, but would you wait 15,000 miles to change the tranny and diff fluid? After seeing that, I certainly am glad that I didn't.
Shawn
mad_VIII: I was thinking of going Shockproof as well. I used to use superlight in my Subaru and I could definitely tell the difference in shift smoothness. I was considering using lightweight in the Evo, but after reading this post, I may just go the same route and use the fluids that Shawn suggests.
Tranmission
I changed my tranmission fluid at 600 miles and found a lot of metal piece in it and the dealer mechanic tell me get the transmission flush after 3000 miles and it should be clean . And now i have 3600 miles on the clock already make an appointment tomorrow to flush so should i flush it ?


