How is everyone's boost guage working?
How is everyone's boost guage working?
Maybe i shouldn't of ran the split at the fuel pressure regulator
Boost guages sometimes reads zero during hard runs. Any ideas? Defective? It's the mitsubishi factory guage.
Where is everyone plugging thier boost hose from the guages into?
Boost guages sometimes reads zero during hard runs. Any ideas? Defective? It's the mitsubishi factory guage.Where is everyone plugging thier boost hose from the guages into?
Originally posted by Fireball
Into the line leading into the blow off valve.
Into the line leading into the blow off valve.
tech recommends? I wonder if the cause of the problem is from running in the fuel pressure regulator? Perhaps i should try in the bov and see if it goes out. Funny after cooling down the car, the boost guage works again? I wonder if it's defective guage or running from the pressure regulator is a bad idea? Usually no problem except when extreme driving is involved, which would be strange if it was the guage not liking my driving
Last edited by gtr; Jul 21, 2003 at 01:06 PM.
I looked at the directions in the gauge pack while I was at the dealer, problem is they tell you to tie into a vacume canister that is not on the car, at least it's not on mycar and I pointed that out to the regional rep.
I know some folks are tying in there (line running to the fpr) and I did as well. But I had my first stalling incident the day after installing the gauge. I spoke to the regional parts/service manager and he said there was a solenoid or valve in/near that line and that was not a good place to hook it up. If you notice, there is a second or so delay after cranking the engine before you get a reading from that location (line running to the fpr) which confirms that there is some sort of valve on that vacume circuit. Plus if you spring a leak on the line with it tied in there the fpr will see less boost/vacume than there actually is..... could be a very bad thing
I moved it to the line that routes over the valve cover via the hard pipe on the driver side (had to drill a hole in the firewall though as the line was not long enough to use the factory gromet on the pass side firewall.
I think the line I used after does run to the boost control solenoid. And it would still be bad to spring a leak there as you could over boost.
I know some folks are tying in there (line running to the fpr) and I did as well. But I had my first stalling incident the day after installing the gauge. I spoke to the regional parts/service manager and he said there was a solenoid or valve in/near that line and that was not a good place to hook it up. If you notice, there is a second or so delay after cranking the engine before you get a reading from that location (line running to the fpr) which confirms that there is some sort of valve on that vacume circuit. Plus if you spring a leak on the line with it tied in there the fpr will see less boost/vacume than there actually is..... could be a very bad thing
I moved it to the line that routes over the valve cover via the hard pipe on the driver side (had to drill a hole in the firewall though as the line was not long enough to use the factory gromet on the pass side firewall.
I think the line I used after does run to the boost control solenoid. And it would still be bad to spring a leak there as you could over boost.
Originally posted by mad_VIII
...I moved it to the line that routes over the valve cover via the hard pipe on the driver side (had to drill a hole in the firewall though as the line was not long enough to use the factory gromet on the pass side firewall.
I think the line I used after does run to the boost control solenoid. And it would still be bad to spring a leak there as you could over boost.
...I moved it to the line that routes over the valve cover via the hard pipe on the driver side (had to drill a hole in the firewall though as the line was not long enough to use the factory gromet on the pass side firewall.
I think the line I used after does run to the boost control solenoid. And it would still be bad to spring a leak there as you could over boost.
FPR line is fine as long as you are in between the solenoid and the intake and not the FPR and solenoid.
Downside to BOV is if it causes a leak the BOV won't open.
If the FPR comes loose you'll end up with more pressure generally.
Downside to BOV is if it causes a leak the BOV won't open.
If the FPR comes loose you'll end up with more pressure generally.
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