MBC Installation Procedure
Mar 10, 2008, 09:53 PM
#17
cbareng
I’m not sure what you mean by “I ran a new line from the mbc to the wastegate and used the stock vaccum lines from the turbo to the other end of the mb”?
If you have the outlet of the MBC connected to the wastegate actuator then the inlet of the MBC should be connected to a T-Fitting that you install in the stock hose running between the BOV and intake manifold.
Dan (drb)
I’m not sure what you mean by “I ran a new line from the mbc to the wastegate and used the stock vaccum lines from the turbo to the other end of the mb”?
If you have the outlet of the MBC connected to the wastegate actuator then the inlet of the MBC should be connected to a T-Fitting that you install in the stock hose running between the BOV and intake manifold.
Dan (drb)
Mar 22, 2008, 07:36 PM
#20
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Is your Evo totally stock? Is the factory boost control system in place and unaltered? Stock turbo, wastegate, diverter valve, ECU, boost control solenoid, original factory boost/vacuum hose assembly, etc.?
Mar 23, 2008, 07:39 AM
#21
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yes its absolutely stock, just i have installed turbo back and now i am overboosting, how can i fix it without remaping?
Mar 27, 2008, 03:55 PM
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Back to topic, I think the BEST way to install an MBC is not to tap the DV line for a boost source, but use the turbo nipple. With the DV method, there have been reports of inconsistent boost. A few others will probably agree with me.
Mar 27, 2008, 05:34 PM
#26
Yes I will be doing some before and after intake air temperature testing.
I haven't had any problems with inconsistent boost using the DV line but I am going to be trying the turbo nipple method just to see if I see any difference.
In this thread it lists the pro's and con's of using the turbo nipple vs. the BOV line:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=114794
Here are the pros and cons of both hook-ups
1. Hooking it up the compressor outlet nipple:
A. This way gives you less spikes but slower spool up.
B. It does not seem to give repeatable boost. It seems to fluctuate more with the temperature.
C. Boost seems to be harder to control below 15 psi or above 22 psi. Almost everyone who wrote me said this.
D. It is easier to hook up this way. No cutting any boost lines. Plus the lines are kept shorter. (Thus the less spikes).
2. Hooking it to the hose between the BOV and the intake:
A. This way seems to give slightly faster spool up than the other way.
B. It gives more repeatable boost. It doesn't seem to fluctuate as much with temperature differences.
C. The boost seems to be more controllable down to stock turbo levels. (Like down to 7 or 8 psi for a 1G with a stock 14B turbo).
D. It is more work to hook up. You have to cut the hose between the BOV and intake and tee it in. (Not that this is hard, its just
an extra step so I put it in here)
E. Both Hallman and Extreme tell you to do it this way
I'm not sure how accurate this is because I haven't done any testing.
Dan (drb)
I haven't had any problems with inconsistent boost using the DV line but I am going to be trying the turbo nipple method just to see if I see any difference.
In this thread it lists the pro's and con's of using the turbo nipple vs. the BOV line:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=114794
Here are the pros and cons of both hook-ups
1. Hooking it up the compressor outlet nipple:
A. This way gives you less spikes but slower spool up.
B. It does not seem to give repeatable boost. It seems to fluctuate more with the temperature.
C. Boost seems to be harder to control below 15 psi or above 22 psi. Almost everyone who wrote me said this.
D. It is easier to hook up this way. No cutting any boost lines. Plus the lines are kept shorter. (Thus the less spikes).
2. Hooking it to the hose between the BOV and the intake:
A. This way seems to give slightly faster spool up than the other way.
B. It gives more repeatable boost. It doesn't seem to fluctuate as much with temperature differences.
C. The boost seems to be more controllable down to stock turbo levels. (Like down to 7 or 8 psi for a 1G with a stock 14B turbo).
D. It is more work to hook up. You have to cut the hose between the BOV and intake and tee it in. (Not that this is hard, its just
an extra step so I put it in here)
E. Both Hallman and Extreme tell you to do it this way
I'm not sure how accurate this is because I haven't done any testing.
Dan (drb)
Last edited by drb; Apr 21, 2009 at 08:49 PM.
Jul 3, 2008, 10:34 AM
#27
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Sorry to bring this thread back to life, but I just followed the instructions and double checked our work to make sure it was setup correctly. We started with the hallman all the way turned down and it was at 12psi. We have given it almost 4 full turns now and we're barely hitting 14psi. Did any of you notice you had to turn the controller more turns then you had expected?
Mar 8, 2009, 10:04 PM
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Sorry to bring this thread back to life, but I just followed the instructions and double checked our work to make sure it was setup correctly. We started with the hallman all the way turned down and it was at 12psi. We have given it almost 4 full turns now and we're barely hitting 14psi. Did any of you notice you had to turn the controller more turns then you had expected?
Mar 9, 2009, 11:41 AM
#30
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I guess I should have updated this. We cured this problem by switching out the spring in the MBC. I must of overlooked it, but our MBC came with an extra spring which was actually a stiffer spring. Swapped it out and am able to get up to 21psi no problem. Just make sure when you swapped the spring to turn the MBC all the way down as you don't want to overboost.