brandnewman

iTrader: (1)

Nice write up. Subscribed for sure.

flipjt22

iTrader: (8)

Great write-up, thanks for the reference.

llDemonll

iTrader: (21)

Installed my MBC last night using Option 1, was replacing intake anyways so it was all convenient.

For those afraid of doing it without lifting the car fearing it will be too much work:
It's not. It takes a bit longer, but you have a lot more room to work with.

For Option 1:
These are the lines you are concerned about (granted I took the picture after I pulled them off the boost solenoid):

The left pipe is the upper intercooler pipe right behind the radiator

pull them off the boost solenoid and then cap the two fittings you pulled them off of (no pictures of the solenoid with caps on it)


the shorter line connects to the intake tube (charge tube?), the longer one continue to the turbo and wastegate. There is a 'T' in the line so it's easy to tell where both of them go and what the correct lines are to pull. the left line connects to the wastegate, i had just pulled it off before i took the picture.


Connect your new vacuum line to the turbo and wastegate, turbo -> boost controller in and boost controller out -> wastegate is how it will end up

Evo9sanjose

Went with option 1. Did not cap both lines
To the selenoid. Capped one and left the return to
Intake attached. I start loosing boost at 3k with
Some stuttering involved. Would skipping this step
Cause this problem. Or is it something else

12WWGSR91

iTrader: (51)

great refrence, i just hope i went with the right path, going with option 1 and seeing how it goes

2rbolag

Do you cap the nipple on the turbo if using wg for boost source?

llDemonll

iTrader: (21)

you can't use the WG for the boost source

2rbolag

Sorry, meant to say the dv/im T

llDemonll

iTrader: (21)

in that case yes, cap the nipple on the turbo

make sure it's securely capped and zip tie the sucked on there with some good quality ties. the nipple still sees full boost and will pop a cap off if it's just pushed on and not secured