EvoM & Ebay = 500WHP for less than $4000 with built engine!
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From: Long Island
EvoM & Ebay = 500WHP for less than $4000 with built engine!
My car has been evolving since the day that I got it 3.5 years ago. I have gotten a lot of deals on good used parts here on the forum as well as some parts from ebay that have worked out well. All told I spent about $4,000 The turbo is a Journal bearing 50 trim with an ebay manifold and DP which required some signifigant modifications and reinforcment to make it work right. The $4,000 does not even include parts that I was able to sell like my old 20G and manifold, DP, injecors and some other stuff. The car recently put down 500 WHP on 29 PSI, so I think that it was all worth it for this kind of performance. Car was built to do it all. A little drag racing, a lot of road racing, and to take out an occasional vette ot two on the street. I went with conservitve cams and retained the stock MAF for perfect drivability and idle. No SES lights ever and the car behaves like stock until you hit the long skinny pedal. I think the dyno chart shows that a journal bearing 50 trim can get the job done with good spoolup without spending an additional $600 for a BB unit. Since the turbo is not in it's effiiency range at higher than 30 PSI, I saw no need for a BB turbo. The only difference that I see is it is a tad slower on boost recovery, but that is easily solved with No lift to shift enabled. The tune was no where near the edge. Conservative AFR's and timing since most of power will be used road racing. If I had sprayed it, it would be making over 600 WHP with a dry shot which cost $200 used from this forum. Engine management comes from the now hated UTEC. I am one of the minority who believes that this is the best piggyback available. I have 5 different maps for different boost levels and fuel that I can switch with the car running at the push of a button (no laptop) It also retains the stock MAF which I have not yet found to be a resriction at all. Mods include:
HKS 264/272 cams ($500 new)
1000 cc injectors ($280 new)
homemade LICP ($100)
BR catback with test pipe. (traded for stock exhaust)
Utec (used $300)
helix UICP (trade for some ceramic coating I did for a guy)
Turbo xs FMIC ($400 GB price)
CP pistons and eagle rods ($500) used for a few months and then magnafluxed
Throttle body ported by a local shop as a trade for some powder coating.
Intake manifold ported by me = free
Ebay t3/t4 manifold and DP = $175 plus a lot of my own labor to make it "right"
44 mm tial WG. ($340 new)
PTE JB 50 trim ($600 new)
HKS DLI ($300 used)
Walbro ($90)
Misc other stuff like gaskets, lines, fittings etc = <$500
Labor = free I do all my own work including building the engine and removing the rear balance shaft and turning down the front one on a lathe.
I am hoping to make it into the 10's with this setup. I also have a 100 shot of nitrous on tap just in case I need it. The 500 WHP was w/o the nitrous BTW. The car spools fast and is a beast to drive. Bash away at the ebay parts, but they worked for me. It is just a matter of reinforcing some of the weak points and modifying the DP to make it clear the oil pan without butting right up to it.
HKS 264/272 cams ($500 new)
1000 cc injectors ($280 new)
homemade LICP ($100)
BR catback with test pipe. (traded for stock exhaust)
Utec (used $300)
helix UICP (trade for some ceramic coating I did for a guy)
Turbo xs FMIC ($400 GB price)
CP pistons and eagle rods ($500) used for a few months and then magnafluxed
Throttle body ported by a local shop as a trade for some powder coating.
Intake manifold ported by me = free
Ebay t3/t4 manifold and DP = $175 plus a lot of my own labor to make it "right"
44 mm tial WG. ($340 new)
PTE JB 50 trim ($600 new)
HKS DLI ($300 used)
Walbro ($90)
Misc other stuff like gaskets, lines, fittings etc = <$500
Labor = free I do all my own work including building the engine and removing the rear balance shaft and turning down the front one on a lathe.
I am hoping to make it into the 10's with this setup. I also have a 100 shot of nitrous on tap just in case I need it. The 500 WHP was w/o the nitrous BTW. The car spools fast and is a beast to drive. Bash away at the ebay parts, but they worked for me. It is just a matter of reinforcing some of the weak points and modifying the DP to make it clear the oil pan without butting right up to it.
Last edited by EvoTech; Jan 25, 2008 at 05:23 AM.
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Thread Starter
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From: Long Island
Charlie,
Do you have a dyno chart showing your torque? Mine was dropping fast and I would like to see some other 50 trims for comparison. May have been due to the conservative timing and a boost leak that could not be fixed while on the dyno.
they guesstimated like 440 Tq....
Thread Starter
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From: Long Island
I've looked at a few other charts and my torque seems to skyrocket faster than most. I think it has to do with the cams being perfectly matched to this turbo for power in the midrage. That was my goal for great street and road racing performance.
Last edited by EvoTech; Jan 24, 2008 at 07:32 PM.





I too have managed to snag alot of good deals off here and ebay.