Nitrous for spool???
Evolved Member
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: UK
just a point to think about. make sure the tuner you are using know what they are talking about when it comes to N2O and how to set it up on turbo cars! i think a wet system would be the best bet, then you can add the fuel needed at the N2O point not at the injectors (putting them under evne more stress and requiering tuning).
also start small and build your way up. dont forget N2O is very hard on componets (pistons esp!).
oh and dont activate it too low down, the V8 guys normaly say about 3K min. this is because N2O creats massive torque at lower RPM and this will smash even forged pistons into bits if your not carefull!
hope this helps some.
Chris.
also start small and build your way up. dont forget N2O is very hard on componets (pistons esp!).
oh and dont activate it too low down, the V8 guys normaly say about 3K min. this is because N2O creats massive torque at lower RPM and this will smash even forged pistons into bits if your not carefull!
hope this helps some.
Chris.
A wet system is better for most applications. However, there are situations in which a dry shot is a better choice. For example. If you have the ability to run multiple maps and enough injector headroom, a dry shot my be a better alteranative. As Chris said, it will require some more tuning than a wet system would, but I think that it is worth it for a couple of reason.
1. One less solenoid to break. IF the nitrous solenoid fails all that is going to happen is you are going to go pig rich. When a fuel solenoid fails = BOOM
2. Better fuel atomozation and perfect distribution to each cyclinder
3. A wet system will rob fuel pressure
4. A dry system can be set up much cheaper.
The issue of stress on your components should not be too much of a issue if you are only using a small shot down low for spoolup. The problem is that you will get addicted to the power and start spraying it throughout the power band. Since you already are making a lot of power on your turbo it could push you into the danger zone. Upgraded rods and pistons would be a good idea if you use it for anything other than a quick dose to help spoolup. Once you start spraying it through full boost is where the stress really starts. Perhaps a full list of your mods and the power you are making would better help anwer what is the best route to go. Also if you know what the injector duty cycle is, I can tell you if you have enough headroom to use the injectors to add the required fuel. I used to run a wet system and recently switched to a dry shot. I suscribe to the KISS theory (keep it simple stupid). Less parts = less to break
1. One less solenoid to break. IF the nitrous solenoid fails all that is going to happen is you are going to go pig rich. When a fuel solenoid fails = BOOM
2. Better fuel atomozation and perfect distribution to each cyclinder
3. A wet system will rob fuel pressure
4. A dry system can be set up much cheaper.
The issue of stress on your components should not be too much of a issue if you are only using a small shot down low for spoolup. The problem is that you will get addicted to the power and start spraying it throughout the power band. Since you already are making a lot of power on your turbo it could push you into the danger zone. Upgraded rods and pistons would be a good idea if you use it for anything other than a quick dose to help spoolup. Once you start spraying it through full boost is where the stress really starts. Perhaps a full list of your mods and the power you are making would better help anwer what is the best route to go. Also if you know what the injector duty cycle is, I can tell you if you have enough headroom to use the injectors to add the required fuel. I used to run a wet system and recently switched to a dry shot. I suscribe to the KISS theory (keep it simple stupid). Less parts = less to break
Last edited by EvoTech; Jan 28, 2008 at 05:04 AM.
alky/meth is the way to go for more power, everyone who wants a cheaper way and a really beneficial outcome goes with alky/meth...plus think how much easier it would be than running a zex kit
Evolved Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 0
From: UK
A wet system is better for most applications. However, there are situations in which a dry shot is a better choice. For example. If you have the ability to run multiple maps and enough injector headroom, a dry shot my be a better alteranative. As Chris said, it will require some more tuning than a wet system would, but I think that it is worth it for a couple of reason.
1. One less solenoid to break. IF the nitrous solenoid fails all that is going to happen is you are going to go pig rich. When a fuel solenoid fails = BOOM
2. Better fuel atomozation and perfect distribution to each cyclinder
3. A wet system will rob fuel pressure
4. A dry system can be set up much cheaper.
The issue of stress on your components should not be too much of a issue if you are only using a small shot down low for spoolup. The problem is that you will get addicted to the power and start spraying it throughout the power band. Since you already are making a lot of power on your turbo it could push you into the danger zone. Upgraded rods and pistons would be a good idea if you use it for anything other than a quick dose to help spoolup. Once you start spraying it through full boost is where the stress really starts. Perhaps a full list of your mods and the power you are making would better help anwer what is the best route to go. Also if you know what the injector duty cycle is, I can tell you if you have enough headroom to use the injectors to add the required fuel. I used to run a wet system and recently switched to a dry shot. I suscribe to the KISS theory (keep it simple stupid). Less parts = less to break
1. One less solenoid to break. IF the nitrous solenoid fails all that is going to happen is you are going to go pig rich. When a fuel solenoid fails = BOOM
2. Better fuel atomozation and perfect distribution to each cyclinder
3. A wet system will rob fuel pressure
4. A dry system can be set up much cheaper.
The issue of stress on your components should not be too much of a issue if you are only using a small shot down low for spoolup. The problem is that you will get addicted to the power and start spraying it throughout the power band. Since you already are making a lot of power on your turbo it could push you into the danger zone. Upgraded rods and pistons would be a good idea if you use it for anything other than a quick dose to help spoolup. Once you start spraying it through full boost is where the stress really starts. Perhaps a full list of your mods and the power you are making would better help anwer what is the best route to go. Also if you know what the injector duty cycle is, I can tell you if you have enough headroom to use the injectors to add the required fuel. I used to run a wet system and recently switched to a dry shot. I suscribe to the KISS theory (keep it simple stupid). Less parts = less to break
i shouls have thought more about the dry setup! its early here and i hadn't had my coffee! lol
as long as you get it mapped right a dry setup if often the way to go. it what alot of the big V8 guys are doing now. or even going dry on the first stage and then a big wet shot for the second. as said before get as much info as you can on it and dont be scared to have a look on say a V8 forum for some info on boosting and N2o. knowlage is power at the end of the day.
also if you are just after reducing spoolup time i think there are kits out there to help with this! you basically have a window switch with and additional feature that boost. once you get to say 10psi the N2O stops and you all turbo.
i cant rember but are you running a standalone ECU?? if so have you looked into anti-lag?? its a very cool feature alot of ECO's have built in. basically you retard the timing a little, run it really rich and open the idle controle valve fully. the result is the chage is ignited half way down the cylinder and is still burning as the exhaust valve opens. this helps keep the turbo spooled up until you get back on the throttle. its what all the rally guys have been using for years now. just thinking it would be cheaper in the long run than N2O, it switchable to.
Cheers Chris.
great post mate!
i shouls have thought more about the dry setup! its early here and i hadn't had my coffee! lol
as long as you get it mapped right a dry setup if often the way to go. it what alot of the big V8 guys are doing now. or even going dry on the first stage and then a big wet shot for the second. as said before get as much info as you can on it and dont be scared to have a look on say a V8 forum for some info on boosting and N2o. knowlage is power at the end of the day.
also if you are just after reducing spoolup time i think there are kits out there to help with this! you basically have a window switch with and additional feature that boost. once you get to say 10psi the N2O stops and you all turbo.
i cant rember but are you running a standalone ECU?? if so have you looked into anti-lag?? its a very cool feature alot of ECO's have built in. basically you retard the timing a little, run it really rich and open the idle controle valve fully. the result is the chage is ignited half way down the cylinder and is still burning as the exhaust valve opens. this helps keep the turbo spooled up until you get back on the throttle. its what all the rally guys have been using for years now. just thinking it would be cheaper in the long run than N2O, it switchable to.
Cheers Chris.
i shouls have thought more about the dry setup! its early here and i hadn't had my coffee! lol
as long as you get it mapped right a dry setup if often the way to go. it what alot of the big V8 guys are doing now. or even going dry on the first stage and then a big wet shot for the second. as said before get as much info as you can on it and dont be scared to have a look on say a V8 forum for some info on boosting and N2o. knowlage is power at the end of the day.
also if you are just after reducing spoolup time i think there are kits out there to help with this! you basically have a window switch with and additional feature that boost. once you get to say 10psi the N2O stops and you all turbo.
i cant rember but are you running a standalone ECU?? if so have you looked into anti-lag?? its a very cool feature alot of ECO's have built in. basically you retard the timing a little, run it really rich and open the idle controle valve fully. the result is the chage is ignited half way down the cylinder and is still burning as the exhaust valve opens. this helps keep the turbo spooled up until you get back on the throttle. its what all the rally guys have been using for years now. just thinking it would be cheaper in the long run than N2O, it switchable to.
Cheers Chris.
Anti-lag will be cheaper in the short term, but be prepared to go through a lot of turbos. It is very hard on a turbo. You are basicaly creating an explosion that continues into the manifold and to the turbo. Good for spool not so go for longevity. As to those that keep going back to meth. Meth injection is not going to help with spoolup.
Evolved Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 0
From: UK
Anti-lag will be cheaper in the short term, but be prepared to go through a lot of turbos. It is very hard on a turbo. You are basicaly creating an explosion that continues into the manifold and to the turbo. Good for spool not so go for longevity. As to those that keep going back to meth. Meth injection is not going to help with spoolup.
also worth notiung that the Garrett GT series turbos are much better at dealing with the extra stress anti-lag causes.
there are a few guys in the UK runing itall the time. have a look on lancerregister.com for more info.
Cheers
Chris.
you are right that anti-lag can be very damaging to turbo. however most have different settings so you can "turn down" the anti-lag form all all out rally car.
also worth notiung that the Garrett GT series turbos are much better at dealing with the extra stress anti-lag causes.
there are a few guys in the UK runing itall the time. have a look on lancerregister.com for more info.
Cheers
Chris.
also worth notiung that the Garrett GT series turbos are much better at dealing with the extra stress anti-lag causes.
there are a few guys in the UK runing itall the time. have a look on lancerregister.com for more info.
Cheers
Chris.
A wet system is better for most applications. However, there are situations in which a dry shot is a better choice. For example. If you have the ability to run multiple maps and enough injector headroom, a dry shot my be a better alteranative. As Chris said, it will require some more tuning than a wet system would, but I think that it is worth it for a couple of reason.
1. One less solenoid to break. IF the nitrous solenoid fails all that is going to happen is you are going to go pig rich. When a fuel solenoid fails = BOOM
2. Better fuel atomozation and perfect distribution to each cyclinder
3. A wet system will rob fuel pressure
4. A dry system can be set up much cheaper.
The issue of stress on your components should not be too much of a issue if you are only using a small shot down low for spoolup. The problem is that you will get addicted to the power and start spraying it throughout the power band. Since you already are making a lot of power on your turbo it could push you into the danger zone. Upgraded rods and pistons would be a good idea if you use it for anything other than a quick dose to help spoolup. Once you start spraying it through full boost is where the stress really starts. Perhaps a full list of your mods and the power you are making would better help anwer what is the best route to go. Also if you know what the injector duty cycle is, I can tell you if you have enough headroom to use the injectors to add the required fuel. I used to run a wet system and recently switched to a dry shot. I suscribe to the KISS theory (keep it simple stupid). Less parts = less to break
1. One less solenoid to break. IF the nitrous solenoid fails all that is going to happen is you are going to go pig rich. When a fuel solenoid fails = BOOM
2. Better fuel atomozation and perfect distribution to each cyclinder
3. A wet system will rob fuel pressure
4. A dry system can be set up much cheaper.
The issue of stress on your components should not be too much of a issue if you are only using a small shot down low for spoolup. The problem is that you will get addicted to the power and start spraying it throughout the power band. Since you already are making a lot of power on your turbo it could push you into the danger zone. Upgraded rods and pistons would be a good idea if you use it for anything other than a quick dose to help spoolup. Once you start spraying it through full boost is where the stress really starts. Perhaps a full list of your mods and the power you are making would better help anwer what is the best route to go. Also if you know what the injector duty cycle is, I can tell you if you have enough headroom to use the injectors to add the required fuel. I used to run a wet system and recently switched to a dry shot. I suscribe to the KISS theory (keep it simple stupid). Less parts = less to break
I;m not really looking to make more power, I'm looking for something that will help with the spool
Evolved Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 0
From: UK
Sorry for the off topic, but you and I need to talk. I found an interesting post that you made on LS1tech about a twin turbo setup similiar to what I am considering. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=twin+charging
i cant believe i missed it! i love this kind of stuff!
Chris.
well i am currently installing a single fog wet kit on my setup to get some more power band on the street with my gt4094r.i am going with a 100 shot.i am currentyl making 707hp but the power band is very peaky.my motor is fully built etc has all supporting mods,aem will be controling nitrous duty.i am on rc 1200cc injectors.my question is will i have enough injector with this set up and will it be wise to spray through the entire powerband.i have a really good tuner btw so that is not an issue.thanks ahead,alot of good info on this thread!!
well i am currently installing a single fog wet kit on my setup to get some more power band on the street with my gt4094r.i am going with a 100 shot.i am currentyl making 707hp but the power band is very peaky.my motor is fully built etc has all supporting mods,aem will be controling nitrous duty.i am on rc 1200cc injectors.my question is will i have enough injector with this set up and will it be wise to spray through the entire powerband.i have a really good tuner btw so that is not an issue.thanks ahead,alot of good info on this thread!!
You said that you are doing a wet sytem. So where do the injectors come into play? The question is do you have enough fuel presure.