AC questions, Stalling issues, and RPMs dropping problems, need feedback please read
Jul 3, 2013, 03:03 PM
#17
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Jul 24, 2013, 12:22 AM
#19
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i have the same damnn problem..everytime i use the ac on the highway its ok ..but when i am slowing down it feels like its about to die on me..maybe because i need a tune..breaking in the new motor i have but the rpm should not drop so low?? any advice going to tune it friday anyway..hope this thing gets fix because its summer and its pissing me off having no A/C on long distance driving
May 18, 2015, 08:04 PM
#22
huge bump but, people always say use the search so eff it I did.
Is there no solution to this problem. I drove around with my tuner for like an hour and he was adjusting while driving but. After having the car for a day issue arises.
He gave me some crap about the math sensor and that the reason im getting these issues is the injen pipping im using over the stock piping and that if I return to a stock pipe my issues will be solved.
Maybe its just me but it all sounds like ****. Also was told I would never have this issue with speed density.
I just feel like Im being scammed into buying more stuff. I like the guy but I just cant except that there is no way to tune this issue out.
Is there no solution to this problem. I drove around with my tuner for like an hour and he was adjusting while driving but. After having the car for a day issue arises.
He gave me some crap about the math sensor and that the reason im getting these issues is the injen pipping im using over the stock piping and that if I return to a stock pipe my issues will be solved.
Maybe its just me but it all sounds like ****. Also was told I would never have this issue with speed density.
I just feel like Im being scammed into buying more stuff. I like the guy but I just cant except that there is no way to tune this issue out.
Aug 5, 2015, 07:36 AM
#23
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Sorry for not being online to update my situation. I took everything off of the car, and drove to my freind's house, and the car still had the same problem. I was going to take it back to the dealership, but to a different dealer this time, but then, the car wouldn't do it. It's been about two weeks or so, and nothing. I re-installed the turbo timer, and boost gauge, still nothing. THe only thing i can think of that could have caused the problem was the grounding kit. The reason for this is because the dealer installed grounding kit is pretty faulty, and the design is pretty flawed. here is why:
The grounding kit is a "daisy chain" style, that connects to multiple points, then grounds out on factory grounding points. First off, these factory points have about a total of 12 or so wires on them, about 6 or so on each, which means that these grounds are already pretty maxed out. THe more you use a ground, the worse it gets. Also, with the cable connecting to both of these at each end of the chain, the voltage going to the ground, MAY flow thorugh the grounding cable, all the way to the other end of the chasis, thus making the ground double in length and the longer the ground, the worse it is as well. The kit actually can rob the factory cables of voltage, and send that voltage to the other end of the grounding strap, making the ground a bad ground in a sense. I have talked to a few mechanics, who agree with me on this, and if you take a look at any japanese magazine, or even the evo bible Hyper REV book, you will notice that almost 95% of the grounding kits available in japan are NOT this daisy chain style of kit, but instead use individual straps, or at the very least, use non-factory grounds. I'm sure the dealer's grounding kit is fine, if you don't use the two factory grounding points that the instructions say to use. Find two other bolts that are of the same size, in the same location, there are plenty around, and see what happens. My freind actually has the same mods as me on his evo, and he used the dealer grounding kit, but found different grounding points, and his car worked much better.
Its odd though, my voltage on my turbo timer is still the same, i'm thinking the battery is shot for some reason, but the stalling and idle issue seems to have been taken care of. I know it's not the intake as well, as i re-installed it as well, and stil had no trouble.
my voltage still reads in the mid 13s with no AC, and 12s-11s with AC, but the car runs perfect now. I'm just going to leave it alone, and continue on my project honda accord.
The grounding kit is a "daisy chain" style, that connects to multiple points, then grounds out on factory grounding points. First off, these factory points have about a total of 12 or so wires on them, about 6 or so on each, which means that these grounds are already pretty maxed out. THe more you use a ground, the worse it gets. Also, with the cable connecting to both of these at each end of the chain, the voltage going to the ground, MAY flow thorugh the grounding cable, all the way to the other end of the chasis, thus making the ground double in length and the longer the ground, the worse it is as well. The kit actually can rob the factory cables of voltage, and send that voltage to the other end of the grounding strap, making the ground a bad ground in a sense. I have talked to a few mechanics, who agree with me on this, and if you take a look at any japanese magazine, or even the evo bible Hyper REV book, you will notice that almost 95% of the grounding kits available in japan are NOT this daisy chain style of kit, but instead use individual straps, or at the very least, use non-factory grounds. I'm sure the dealer's grounding kit is fine, if you don't use the two factory grounding points that the instructions say to use. Find two other bolts that are of the same size, in the same location, there are plenty around, and see what happens. My freind actually has the same mods as me on his evo, and he used the dealer grounding kit, but found different grounding points, and his car worked much better.
Its odd though, my voltage on my turbo timer is still the same, i'm thinking the battery is shot for some reason, but the stalling and idle issue seems to have been taken care of. I know it's not the intake as well, as i re-installed it as well, and stil had no trouble.
my voltage still reads in the mid 13s with no AC, and 12s-11s with AC, but the car runs perfect now. I'm just going to leave it alone, and continue on my project honda accord.
I have the same problem you have, but I'm driving an Evo 9 Purchased in the US. What you described is exactly what's happening to me and I have been looking for an answer for a few months now and I come across this post. The problem is, I live in qatar and not many people can help me fix the Evo. So the solution is changing the grounding wires?
Thanks
Jan 26, 2018, 08:23 PM
#24
From the dead bump. Any resolutions on this? I had the stalling out issue, with my first tune, when my clutch was pressed in. Or stalling out when a/c or defrost was on. I went back to visit my tuner and he thinks it's my a/c compressor going bad, so he set my target idle to 1200, and 1500 rpm with a/c on. Not really satisfied with this "fix", but at the moment that's where I'm left at.
Mar 10, 2018, 11:07 AM
#25
bump to your dead bump. I've had the same idle issue forever especially with AC on, so i use AC rarely now. when coming to a stop, my 8 would drop rpm and almost die. but today, it died on me 3 times at every stop i came to and threw the codes P0340 and P0335. I'm gonna change out my idle air control valve and go from there.. 
May 10, 2019, 06:06 PM
#27
Newbie
Bump on this, anyone find the cause/fix for this issue. I have a good 14v idling and driving, but if the clutch is pressed in, or car is in neutral, and I pish the AC button I watch volts drop into the 11’s, anyone find the fix? Bad battery?, relay? Compressor? (Doubtful) I’m thinking it’s a short somewhere. Please post up if someone else found a fix to this. This is on a stock 9 MR if I turn off AC, even with fan blowers at 4, volts come back up, press AC, volts go down. Only at idle speed, everything is fine while motor has load on it. Guessing battery. (PC680) but would be helpful for someone else to chime in
May 13, 2019, 05:47 AM
#28
So the car is 100% stock?
You don't see this issue with your voltage while cruising and turning on the AC?
I am suspecting 1 of two things, there is a table if I remember correctly (its been years since I work with ecuflash) for AC engagement idle compensation but only impact the idle speed, and maybe your serpentine belt tensioner/belt are slipping.
You don't see this issue with your voltage while cruising and turning on the AC?
I am suspecting 1 of two things, there is a table if I remember correctly (its been years since I work with ecuflash) for AC engagement idle compensation but only impact the idle speed, and maybe your serpentine belt tensioner/belt are slipping.
May 14, 2019, 06:07 AM
#29
Newbie
So the car is 100% stock?
You don't see this issue with your voltage while cruising and turning on the AC?
I am suspecting 1 of two things, there is a table if I remember correctly (its been years since I work with ecuflash) for AC engagement idle compensation but only impact the idle speed, and maybe your serpentine belt tensioner/belt are slipping.
You don't see this issue with your voltage while cruising and turning on the AC?
I am suspecting 1 of two things, there is a table if I remember correctly (its been years since I work with ecuflash) for AC engagement idle compensation but only impact the idle speed, and maybe your serpentine belt tensioner/belt are slipping.
Yeah car is stock minus some intercooler piping and speed density. I dont hear any belts slipping, and when the load is on the engine, I dont have this issue. I can literally be parked in neutral, push the AC button and watch volts drop, and press it again and watch them come up, I can’t recreate it in any other way then with the AC button. I’ll look around in ecuflash for that tab, I’m on tephra v7, any suggestions on what values to change? I’m coming from a dsm which I tuned myself to 750whp, this is my first evo though. My first thought was a short in one of the AC wires somewhere but i dont see anything odd.
May 16, 2019, 08:27 AM
#30
If I recall, in ECU flash there was a 2-D table with AC switch compensations that can add ISCV (air motor steps) to the idle speed targets.... basically increase the air path for higher spark compensations, so you can bump it up by 5% and note the impact on the idle speed/voltage when toggling the AC switch.
I suppose, when you toggle the AC switch and the voltage drops, your idle speed also drops?
I suppose, when you toggle the AC switch and the voltage drops, your idle speed also drops?