i have a rattling ticking noise coming form my engine and it sarted hapening after i got cams,tbe,licp,255,and tune. everyone told me it was the lifters because i got hks i272 and 264e but the lifters were bled before installation. noise did not start right away but got progressively louder. i rebleed the lifters and it went away but came back about 100 miles later. i bought the jam no tick lifters and same thing happened, went away and came back again. the block and valve train are stock except for cams. the funny thing is that it sounds perfect at idle but the rattling ticking sound becomes evident from inside of car and outside at about 1500-3000 rpm. i know its hard to diagonose this from a video but your advice on what it could be or what i could try would be greatly appreciated.

update i might have timing belt issues, i have a new video of my timing belt, its loose in soem positions and tight in others, top dead center is loose. let me know what you guys think if the belt play is normal.

new update ticking is gonne replaced cams with 264i and 272e hks. these cams were new but the ones that i bought previously were used maybe that was why they made noise.

new update ticking came back replaced springs and retainers, and put 272i and 272e.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wPA_ctneJw


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KR5ChGd9hfk

 

Do you have an oil pressure gauge?

 

no, you think it could be a oil pressure issue it seems no to make the noise when the engine is cold, but after its warm

 

Mine sounds just like that with HKS 264/272 and stock lifters and the tapping is right in that rev range. Very annoying and causes false knock around 2800. I've got an oil pressure gauge and everything looks fine there.

 

i bought some new cams and used rockers to see if that will help, should i wait and change the springs also could that be the problem. any advice would be appreciated.

 

You might try replacing the cams or degreeing them.

We have been chasing a 3000rpm 36count false knock for a little while now. From leak tests to new knock sensor to replacement ECU's.

 

this is a very interesting question i have the same prob... so im gonna listen in on this

 

I have this exact same prob....i read somewhere that it is a timing belt or somthing around the timing belt issuse. This guy had a dealer replace the timing belt and he said it went awat so i dont know...try searching youtube for evo engine noise and see those videos...theres some info in the comments..

 

I had a cold start and that happened to me so I tore it apart replaced the springs and retainers and timing belt and it went away, no idea why.

 

I have the tickins warm. say g noise also, it goes away after the lifter pump up and the car gets warm, say like 7-8 min.

 

i just had a car in for a ticking sound, i've heard the lifter tick though, and this was slightly different. this ticking i diagnosed to being somewhere in the belt area, and after pulling the belt cover off, it turns out it was the hydraulic tensioner. it had blown, and every time the engine turned over, the belt got tighter/looser and the tensioner would compress/decompress. when it did this, the lever arm that sits on the hydraulic tensioner piston would tap against the hrdraulic tensioner body. if he revved the motor, it would go away at exactly 3,000rpm and up. after realizing what it was, i noticed there was a particularly large amount of play in the timing belt. not enough to jump a tooth or anything, but more then when the tensioner is working properly....

 

I just bought a evo 8 with 280 custom grind cams and it ticks loud when its cold and then gets a lil quieter when it warms up. Should I get it checked out ?

 

my ticking came and went but now it is constant at that rpm range, it seems to be louder closer to the cam gear area on the intake side, maybe i have the same problem with the tensioner like the one kevin fixed, can i mess up something big by driving it like this.

 

took my belt cover off and found the belt to be loose and tight as i rotate it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KR5ChGd9hfk

 

In most cases the tensioner will always loosen up after no belt movement or vibration once the car is shut of for a while, this looks pretty normal to me. I wouldn't be yanking on the cam gear to turn the motor over at that point either, if you want to turn the engine you should use 1/2 drive down on the crank pulley bolt. The way you are doing it in your video makes me squint when you yank on the socket drive.

Are you shure the PVC valve is opening and closing very quickly causing a rattle type noise?