Head Studs really needed?
Not disputing any suggestions above but want to ask a question: for all the guys who did do studs, how many have had engine issues afterwards?
In Socal it seems most of the tuners recommend them. I'm guessing that if they were causing leakage, people would stop doing it. Are there people out there who've done them and run into trouble?
Thanks
In Socal it seems most of the tuners recommend them. I'm guessing that if they were causing leakage, people would stop doing it. Are there people out there who've done them and run into trouble?
Thanks
Not disputing any suggestions above but want to ask a question: for all the guys who did do studs, how many have had engine issues afterwards?
In Socal it seems most of the tuners recommend them. I'm guessing that if they were causing leakage, people would stop doing it. Are there people out there who've done them and run into trouble?
Thanks
In Socal it seems most of the tuners recommend them. I'm guessing that if they were causing leakage, people would stop doing it. Are there people out there who've done them and run into trouble?
Thanks
the 4g63 in our evos is a better stronger 4g63 than the previous ones, b/c people change the headstuds in their 2g, don't mean evo's are weak.
Use stronger head fasteners if you plan to push the detonation borderline (i.e., heavy duty pistons, rods, etc) or have an unavoidable risk of getting bad gas.
I think high boost alone does not require stronger headstuds because peak cyl pressures do not increase nearly as much (with increased boost) as it would in a case of an episode of knock at stock boost levels.
Keep in mind though the harder you push the engine the more sever the knock can be, especially when cyl head temps are excessive
I think high boost alone does not require stronger headstuds because peak cyl pressures do not increase nearly as much (with increased boost) as it would in a case of an episode of knock at stock boost levels.
Keep in mind though the harder you push the engine the more sever the knock can be, especially when cyl head temps are excessive
I personally have seen an VIII lift the head on a stock engine, stock turbo, due to overboost and knock.
I get what shameless is saying and sortof agree that if you have a bad tune with det then its safer to have head studs but then does that mean with a good tune that has no det it will be less of a problem?
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Bringing this thread back from the dead, would you guys recommend a retorque of the stock head bolts while doing cams? I don't mean the loosen then tighten method. I just mean setting the torque wrench and then making sure they all are within spec. What do you think? Or should they not be touched? I will be going with GSC S1 cams, basically a stage 3, full TBE IC pipes, etc. yada yada yada.
i did the one by one method the had no leaks for over a year. just took they motor apart and the headgasket looked fine. but i also always go with what the tuner rec. they know what they r going to do with your car so i try to make it easy for them and go with what the want.
i did the one by one method the had no leaks for over a year. just took they motor apart and the headgasket looked fine. but i also always go with what the tuner rec. they know what they r going to do with your car so i try to make it easy for them and go with what the want.
just leave stock head studs in....
wait till you blow the head gasket running lot of boost,, then do it..
worse thing that will happen is you will be blowing some white smoke for awhile until you get the head off and replace gasket and studs then.
I have head studs and gasket in garage in case it ever happens,, but i have yet to go over 25psi on my green so probably won't happen
wait till you blow the head gasket running lot of boost,, then do it..
worse thing that will happen is you will be blowing some white smoke for awhile until you get the head off and replace gasket and studs then.
I have head studs and gasket in garage in case it ever happens,, but i have yet to go over 25psi on my green so probably won't happen
