Head Studs really needed?
Head Studs really needed?
My tuner that installed my cams, retainers & springs didn't recommend Head Studs even though I peak at a slight tick under 25 PSI, now I have been talking to another tuner here locally and he highly recommends getting them done. He did however say that all tuners are different and have different taste of tuning. He says I'm on the rather high side of the spectrum for his liking and that he would definitely do the Head Studs for piece of mind.
My evo bothers what do you think? Sorry for the duplicate thread in Evo X forum
My evo bothers what do you think? Sorry for the duplicate thread in Evo X forum
I was taught to get them for high boost (I have a 2G Eclipse DSM buddy), but in a recent thread I heard otherwise. One member said he had never run into a problem of high boost with stock studs. Maybe APR headstuds are a fad item?
bump.
bump.
it's cheap insurance, just like a walboro pump. If the valve cover is going to be off for a cam install, why not change it out anyways? It's one of those simple maintenance things to keep it in the realm of safety.
I'll be running a 3065 pushing 27psi with meth soon and have no intention to break a nice factory sealed motor to replace studs capable of keeping things tight. There are a few members here boosting higher than 25psi through 35r sized snails with stock studs for a lot of miles. I'll add ARP's once the head is off. Just makes sense to do it this way for me.
Jorge R.
Jorge R.
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go to the first tuner, you do not need headstuds. the only time you should do headstuds is if you plan on running significant boost (30+ psi), or if your head is off the car anyway.
in order to install headstuds correctly you must replace the head gasket. if you dont replace the HG and install the studs using the 1X1 method you risk getting a weapping oil leak out of the back of the block and the HG has to be replaced. You have about a 50% of developing the leak if you use the 1X1 headstud method.
you feeling lucky?
in order to install headstuds correctly you must replace the head gasket. if you dont replace the HG and install the studs using the 1X1 method you risk getting a weapping oil leak out of the back of the block and the HG has to be replaced. You have about a 50% of developing the leak if you use the 1X1 headstud method.
you feeling lucky?
Use stronger head fasteners if you plan to push the detonation borderline (i.e., heavy duty pistons, rods, etc) or have an unavoidable risk of getting bad gas.
I think high boost alone does not require stronger headstuds because peak cyl pressures do not increase nearly as much (with increased boost) as it would in a case of an episode of knock at stock boost levels.
Keep in mind though the harder you push the engine the more sever the knock can be, especially when cyl head temps are excessive
I think high boost alone does not require stronger headstuds because peak cyl pressures do not increase nearly as much (with increased boost) as it would in a case of an episode of knock at stock boost levels.
Keep in mind though the harder you push the engine the more sever the knock can be, especially when cyl head temps are excessive
Use stronger head fasteners if you plan to push the detonation borderline (i.e., heavy duty pistons, rods, etc) or have an unavoidable risk of getting bad gas.
I think high boost alone does not require stronger headstuds because peak cyl pressures do not increase nearly as much (with increased boost) as it would in a case of an episode of knock at stock boost levels.
Keep in mind though the harder you push the engine the more sever the knock can be, especially when cyl head temps are excessive
I think high boost alone does not require stronger headstuds because peak cyl pressures do not increase nearly as much (with increased boost) as it would in a case of an episode of knock at stock boost levels.
Keep in mind though the harder you push the engine the more sever the knock can be, especially when cyl head temps are excessive
The shop mine was tuned at also did not see a need for the headstuds, stock turbo peaking at 28psi, (c-16)
go to the first tuner, you do not need headstuds. the only time you should do headstuds is if you plan on running significant boost (30+ psi), or if your head is off the car anyway.
in order to install headstuds correctly you must replace the head gasket. if you dont replace the HG and install the studs using the 1X1 method you risk getting a weapping oil leak out of the back of the block and the HG has to be replaced. You have about a 50% of developing the leak if you use the 1X1 headstud method.
you feeling lucky?
in order to install headstuds correctly you must replace the head gasket. if you dont replace the HG and install the studs using the 1X1 method you risk getting a weapping oil leak out of the back of the block and the HG has to be replaced. You have about a 50% of developing the leak if you use the 1X1 headstud method.
you feeling lucky?
Thanks for the informative feed back!








