well we just built the motor and we are having starting issues... here is the low down on the build.. standard size pistons with 9:1 compresion ratio. ported head with std size valves... we are running aem. the only thing that we really changed other than a little more compr is the cams from hks280 to revolvers.. we are having a problem getting the car to start.. we have spark.. but the cylinders keep flooding with fuel.. we havnt changed the map or anything like that.. we are running the same injectors as before. with stock rail and fuel reg. we stoped running all the emissions stuff behind the intake manifold and we capped off the valcume ports on the egr until we get a block off plate. please help. we tryed every thing

 

i would swap back to stock ecu and see if you can get the car to start.


there might be a problem with the aem. Wouldn't be the first time

 

thats crazzy how it would mess up between the time of the motor being built!! ill try it this afternoon and let yall no the verdict

 

is it timed correctly?

 

Take a look at the map sensor. My car wouldnt start after a build either 3 months later it was a wire on the connector that caused my car not to start.

 

make sure the cam and crank angle sensors r on right

 

if i put the car a tdc the wider notch of the crank angle sensor is pointed in the lower righthand corner about 45 degree. map sensor wires look ok. and timing seems to be correct.. also if i was to take off my oil feed line to the turbo, when the car is turning over should it spit out oil.. or would it not until the car is actually running? also why would it be dumoing fuel into the cylinder? i havnt changed anything fuel related

 

Cranking the car over should produce oil pressure.

 

thanks for all the help!!! keep it coming!!!

 

it should, but usually the starter will not produce enough RPM's for the 4g to pump oil.

Also, to the OP, I would reload the map back into the AEM. Watch the tuning and start params when your cranking the car, be sure the Stat Sync switches to on, and watch the MAP and RPM areas as well to be sure they are functioning correctly.

 

yeah the stat sync switches to one

 

my crank sensor is installed correct. from top of sensor to bottom. black red blue

 

If it's a newly built motor, you'd best be thinking about (1) oil pressure and (2) cylinder wall wash down while you're working on the problem.

Generally you want to pre-pressurize the motor, either by (1) using a electric pre-lube external oil pump or by spinning the oil pump before you do the timing belt until you have oil pressure in the head, or by pulling the fuse to the injectors and spinning the motor to self-prime the motor before starting it. If you spin the motor over and over without oil pressure, pretty soon you'll exhaust the protection of the assembly lube and damage the motor.

Second, excessive fuel wash in the cylinders is also a potential problem. Do a little reading and preparation so you don't contaminate your oil or score the cylinder walls.

You clearly are missing something in the "put it back together" arena. It may be as simple as a connector that's not fully connnected or getting contact. Go back over everything you did (a list is always a good thing if you don't do 5 motors a week) and methodically check off what you did. Reloading a ECU map is another reasonable step.

Just don't keep cranking with no changes, or you'll be adding injury to insult.

 

the 4g will not build oil pressure using the starter, it doesn't spin the motor fast enough. If you use a drill, be sure it spins at least 1k rpms. I used an electric one when I put mine together, it only turned about 450rpm, wouldn't do it. Hooked up an air drill(about 3k rpm), one squeeze on the trigger and bam oil everywhere

 

yeah i am conserned about the wall wash down..especially sence fuel keeps building in the culinders.. i have it unhooked from the pump....