Reusing the stock crank??
Reusing the stock crank??
I am currently building a new motor. I took the block and everything down to the machine shop and it seems the crank needs to have 10 thousands taken off of it. I have heard that the DSMers have not had great luck with taking that off the crank. Is it ok to have this taken off the crank for a rebuild and will it stay strong that way? My car should be pushing around 700whp on a mustang this time around. The build will have wiseco pistons and groden aluminum rods. Any input would be great as I need to find out the answer soon.
thanks
PJ
thanks
PJ
How exactly does sesizing the Rod ends help the fact that the crank needs to be cut to the next size down to be cleaned up from any minor scoring?
Go ahead and have the crank cut to .010 under you will have no issues with it unless you had planned on running it in say 750-800+ engine and having it reballanced is not a bat idea should only cost roughly 100-150 to get it back to 0 ballance.
Go ahead and have the crank cut to .010 under you will have no issues with it unless you had planned on running it in say 750-800+ engine and having it reballanced is not a bat idea should only cost roughly 100-150 to get it back to 0 ballance.
not sure but the numbers could be somewhere around there. I just dont want to end up doing it again. Anyone running high horsepower on a cut crank? I would like to know because I might be shooting for that power someday.
How exactly does sesizing the Rod ends help the fact that the crank needs to be cut to the next size down to be cleaned up from any minor scoring?
Go ahead and have the crank cut to .010 under you will have no issues with it unless you had planned on running it in say 750-800+ engine and having it reballanced is not a bat idea should only cost roughly 100-150 to get it back to 0 ballance.
Go ahead and have the crank cut to .010 under you will have no issues with it unless you had planned on running it in say 750-800+ engine and having it reballanced is not a bat idea should only cost roughly 100-150 to get it back to 0 ballance.
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The answers you are getting make different assumptions, because your original post was not complete. The crank could be damaged on the main journals, or on the rod journals, or both. The person that responded to resize the rod big end did not consider that the crank journal was probably damaged, which required it to be recut smaller...
Many people would say that you should always look for a crank that can remain standard/standard sizes on the rod and main journals. With spare 2.0L cranks available for $250 or less, it's not a place to cut corners on a higher than stock HP build. Even if you buy a new factory or Eagle standard stroke crank, it's the critical part of your build. Better safe than sorry.
Many people would say that you should always look for a crank that can remain standard/standard sizes on the rod and main journals. With spare 2.0L cranks available for $250 or less, it's not a place to cut corners on a higher than stock HP build. Even if you buy a new factory or Eagle standard stroke crank, it's the critical part of your build. Better safe than sorry.
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