where to buy stainless studs & nuts?
Tell me you are kidding... I am sure they have only sold 5 built engines also.
Evolved Member
iTrader: (42)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
From: 1,643 miles Southwest of IveyTune
hahaha this thread makes me laugh. these are exhaust studs we are talking about here. they are threaded into an aluminum head! if you are breaking studs, you are over tightening them. they have a torque spec, and it is surprisingly not very tight. and if you are cross threading brand new studs, you have bigger issues then not using the most expensive grade stainless.
here:
Exhaust manifold nut M8 29 ± 3 (21 ± 2 ft-lb)
Exhaust manifold nut M10 49 ± 5 (36 ± 3 ft-lb)
now since JAM has tested both the ARP custom JAM spec studs, these Ssstuds.com studs, and the stock studs on an instron machine for tensile strength, please share the results with us so we know exactly why yours are 4x as much money. if you can convincingly prove to me that yours are without a doubt better then the ssstuds.com studs (and that mine are not strong enough for what they are being used for), then i'll buy a set of yours and put them on my car. oh, and there are still no signs of my ssstuds.com studs of rusting, breaking or even backing out yet.
tkklemann: i was referring to the sstuds.com label for the part people are looking for... on the side it says "2G SS Set (with M10 studs)". that kit includes 2 M10 studs, 7 m8 studs, 9 washers, 9 lock rings, and 9 nuts. reason they added the "with M10 studs" is because they sell a kit that only has the M8 studs
and just and FYI, i am in no way associated with ssstuds.com. i get no discount, nothing. but i buy a lot of studs there because the price is right and the product works.
here:
Exhaust manifold nut M8 29 ± 3 (21 ± 2 ft-lb)
Exhaust manifold nut M10 49 ± 5 (36 ± 3 ft-lb)
now since JAM has tested both the ARP custom JAM spec studs, these Ssstuds.com studs, and the stock studs on an instron machine for tensile strength, please share the results with us so we know exactly why yours are 4x as much money. if you can convincingly prove to me that yours are without a doubt better then the ssstuds.com studs (and that mine are not strong enough for what they are being used for), then i'll buy a set of yours and put them on my car. oh, and there are still no signs of my ssstuds.com studs of rusting, breaking or even backing out yet.
tkklemann: i was referring to the sstuds.com label for the part people are looking for... on the side it says "2G SS Set (with M10 studs)". that kit includes 2 M10 studs, 7 m8 studs, 9 washers, 9 lock rings, and 9 nuts. reason they added the "with M10 studs" is because they sell a kit that only has the M8 studs
and just and FYI, i am in no way associated with ssstuds.com. i get no discount, nothing. but i buy a lot of studs there because the price is right and the product works.
tkklemann: i was referring to the sstuds.com label for the part people are looking for... on the side it says "2G SS Set (with M10 studs)". that kit includes 2 M10 studs, 7 m8 studs, 9 washers, 9 lock rings, and 9 nuts. reason they added the "with M10 studs" is because they sell a kit that only has the M8 studs
He he, amen on the thread...
KevinD, thanks for the details info, I think ssstuds.com is def. reasonably priced, even tho ARP made studs are quality parts, but I still don't think they should cost 120+ dollars.
I have no experience with the JAM product.
I HAVE used ssstuds kits on a number of cars with HP 4g63 motors, where they have provided dependable service with no failures.
We're not talking wheel studs or head studs here, folks.
I HAVE used ssstuds kits on a number of cars with HP 4g63 motors, where they have provided dependable service with no failures.
We're not talking wheel studs or head studs here, folks.
Hey, if you have a stainless nut and a stainless bolt/stud that don't gall, I'm impressed.
Personally I'd just rather use stock studs and anti-seize. I'd avoid stainless hardware if at all possible when it requires you to use a nut and bolt.
Personally I'd just rather use stock studs and anti-seize. I'd avoid stainless hardware if at all possible when it requires you to use a nut and bolt.
A local friend of mine that's been building engines for a while says it's best to use the stock hardware. the reason being that different materials would expand/compress at different rate would could cause problems (coming lose, sieze) later on. It's best to use the stockers even if they look crappy/ugly most of the time :}
But then again he never tried those custom ARP ones from JAM.
But then again he never tried those custom ARP ones from JAM.
hahaha this thread makes me laugh. these are exhaust studs we are talking about here. they are threaded into an aluminum head! if you are breaking studs, you are over tightening them. they have a torque spec, and it is surprisingly not very tight. and if you are cross threading brand new studs, you have bigger issues then not using the most expensive grade stainless.
here:
Exhaust manifold nut M8 29 ± 3 (21 ± 2 ft-lb)
Exhaust manifold nut M10 49 ± 5 (36 ± 3 ft-lb)
now since JAM has tested both the ARP custom JAM spec studs, these Ssstuds.com studs, and the stock studs on an instron machine for tensile strength, please share the results with us so we know exactly why yours are 4x as much money. if you can convincingly prove to me that yours are without a doubt better then the ssstuds.com studs (and that mine are not strong enough for what they are being used for), then i'll buy a set of yours and put them on my car. oh, and there are still no signs of my ssstuds.com studs of rusting, breaking or even backing out yet.
tkklemann: i was referring to the sstuds.com label for the part people are looking for... on the side it says "2G SS Set (with M10 studs)". that kit includes 2 M10 studs, 7 m8 studs, 9 washers, 9 lock rings, and 9 nuts. reason they added the "with M10 studs" is because they sell a kit that only has the M8 studs
and just and FYI, i am in no way associated with ssstuds.com. i get no discount, nothing. but i buy a lot of studs there because the price is right and the product works.
here:
Exhaust manifold nut M8 29 ± 3 (21 ± 2 ft-lb)
Exhaust manifold nut M10 49 ± 5 (36 ± 3 ft-lb)
now since JAM has tested both the ARP custom JAM spec studs, these Ssstuds.com studs, and the stock studs on an instron machine for tensile strength, please share the results with us so we know exactly why yours are 4x as much money. if you can convincingly prove to me that yours are without a doubt better then the ssstuds.com studs (and that mine are not strong enough for what they are being used for), then i'll buy a set of yours and put them on my car. oh, and there are still no signs of my ssstuds.com studs of rusting, breaking or even backing out yet.
tkklemann: i was referring to the sstuds.com label for the part people are looking for... on the side it says "2G SS Set (with M10 studs)". that kit includes 2 M10 studs, 7 m8 studs, 9 washers, 9 lock rings, and 9 nuts. reason they added the "with M10 studs" is because they sell a kit that only has the M8 studs
and just and FYI, i am in no way associated with ssstuds.com. i get no discount, nothing. but i buy a lot of studs there because the price is right and the product works.
couldent of said it better myself:..... the thing is i dont care if they are made out of 24k gold iam not paying $125 for exh. manifold studs
SS Studs for Evo Exhaust Manifold
http://www.ffwdconnection.com/boltkits.shtml Scroll to the bottom of the page.
not to bash ffwd kits cause the are very nice kinda of a good deal but they dont come with the two outer 12mm nuts and the extreme psi kits come with them and there all stainless and arp brand.
