Need some help and guidance......
HKS RS intake
HKS dp
UR HFC
Greddy SP2 catback
Cossworth 272 cams
ARP headstuds
Walbro 255 fuel pump
AMS FMIC and LICP
Hallman MBC
350whp/320wtq Tuned @ 22psi
Now after reading on the boards for a while (and searching), I came up with quite a few questions that I was not satisfied with answering myself from searching.
1. I've noticed most dyno charts I've seen around these hp numbers, usually have higher torque numbers, ie 350whp & 370wtq. The seller I bought the car from said he wasn't particularly happy with the tune, and he said it was pretty conservative. I was wandering what should be the number I could hope for, just by re-tuning it? and is 22psi about the safest way to push the limits without over-doing it and needing larger injectors ect to accomodate?
2. I suppose I should tell you what I'm looking for before my next question. I want a very reliable daily driver, but at the same time I want enough juice to put down a vette or two, thinking 400whp would be about my limit. So that being said, where should I go from here? I was thinking o2 housing, and replacing the HFC with a test pipe/resonated test pipe, and was also suggested that I up the injectors? Problem is I haven't really seen a good option as far as o2 housings go, as I've heard sooner or later, they all will break. Also what about a tubular exhaust manifold, or an inexpensive port and polish on the TB and IM? Any good opinions or suggestions as far as which of the above mentioned would be most benificial with the retune?
3. What are the draw backs or extra concerns I should be aware of when getting up near those type of numbers, any extra precautions I should take ect?
4. I'm still on the stock clutch, and it seems to be holding out just fine for now, how long until you think it will need to be replaced, esp if I up the hp a bit?
I'm sure I will have more questions, but any info is appreciated, I'd love to hear from some shops/tuners as well! thanks in advance!
HKS dp
UR HFC
Greddy SP2 catback
Cossworth 272 cams
ARP headstuds
Walbro 255 fuel pump
AMS FMIC and LICP
Hallman MBC
350whp/320wtq Tuned @ 22psi
Now after reading on the boards for a while (and searching), I came up with quite a few questions that I was not satisfied with answering myself from searching.
1. I've noticed most dyno charts I've seen around these hp numbers, usually have higher torque numbers, ie 350whp & 370wtq. The seller I bought the car from said he wasn't particularly happy with the tune, and he said it was pretty conservative. I was wandering what should be the number I could hope for, just by re-tuning it? and is 22psi about the safest way to push the limits without over-doing it and needing larger injectors ect to accomodate?
2. I suppose I should tell you what I'm looking for before my next question. I want a very reliable daily driver, but at the same time I want enough juice to put down a vette or two, thinking 400whp would be about my limit. So that being said, where should I go from here? I was thinking o2 housing, and replacing the HFC with a test pipe/resonated test pipe, and was also suggested that I up the injectors? Problem is I haven't really seen a good option as far as o2 housings go, as I've heard sooner or later, they all will break. Also what about a tubular exhaust manifold, or an inexpensive port and polish on the TB and IM? Any good opinions or suggestions as far as which of the above mentioned would be most benificial with the retune?
3. What are the draw backs or extra concerns I should be aware of when getting up near those type of numbers, any extra precautions I should take ect?
4. I'm still on the stock clutch, and it seems to be holding out just fine for now, how long until you think it will need to be replaced, esp if I up the hp a bit?
I'm sure I will have more questions, but any info is appreciated, I'd love to hear from some shops/tuners as well! thanks in advance!
I'd say the power level the car is at is very good actually. That torque number at 22 psi is very good. I'm assuming it was on a Dynojet or maybe Dynapak. It would not make those numbers here on our dyno at that boost.
The cars you see with much larger torque numbers are probably run with higher boost. The small stock turbo will make more torque than HP when the boost is cranked up.
Anytime you crank up the boost and hp you just have to make sure the tune is very good and you stick with a quality pump gas.
The 02 housings, we sell one that is coated SS and I've sold a lot, hundreds and hundreds, I have never seen one crack or break.
The tubular header I would stay away from and go with a ported stock manifold, we do that too.
The offroad pipe will for sure free up some HP but will also make the car illegal for road use.
Stock clutch holds up decent to fairly high power as long as the car is not launched.
thanks for all input everyone...im at work and on my phone so I have to make this short...
so basically, what kind of numbers can I expect with a test pipe, o2 housing, ported EM, and a retune? (david, after talking to indy I may have to make the trip up to see you soon if work allows!). Also it seems people are making 330ish pretty easily less the cams, ie the premade packages such as the one you guys offer david? again I haven't looked into it more than just hearing about it, but I'm assuming that is at higher psi than 22? bc otherwise I have most the mods included in those types of packges? (minus a more restrictive exhaust system).
also, the dyno was done in NYC not here in indy as that is where galo is from.
so basically, what kind of numbers can I expect with a test pipe, o2 housing, ported EM, and a retune? (david, after talking to indy I may have to make the trip up to see you soon if work allows!). Also it seems people are making 330ish pretty easily less the cams, ie the premade packages such as the one you guys offer david? again I haven't looked into it more than just hearing about it, but I'm assuming that is at higher psi than 22? bc otherwise I have most the mods included in those types of packges? (minus a more restrictive exhaust system).
also, the dyno was done in NYC not here in indy as that is where galo is from.
I was told that dynodynamics read low so a correction factor had to be added to make it match dynojet numbers.
BTW: It's no uncommon that a shop put a correction factor when they dyno. I know a few places not only in NY that does that.
Last edited by goBYeBYe; Jun 24, 2008 at 12:01 PM.
1.0 is no correction factor, so that's not it. There should be really no correction factor, and the 1.2 makes sense, because those would be unheard of numbers on a DD.
Bingo, that's bush league...
I was told that dynodynamics read low so a correction factor had to be added to make it match dynojet numbers.