Still waiting on mine. It's been a week since I ordered it. Hopefully will have it in before I get my new clutch in.

 

IMO they are both important, but take it from some one who has done them both seperately. The line seems to have the bigger impact, although I have not tried replacing the line and leaving the restrictor in. I just cannot see doing that, but I believe some one on here is going to try it, let us know how it goes.

 

Hey Silver Surfer, where are RX7.com and Alamo located at? I am in North Dallas and actually met you at the FIS Dyno day a couple of months ago. I just picked up my Evo last Wed and want to go ahead and put the braided line on but I will just drive there directly if you can tell me where they are. I will just go to the closer of the two.

 

The line will definitely have much more effect on feel, but as far as longevity, the restricter will hasten the demise of a clutch faster than anything. I have a growing hypothesis that there might have been a bad run of clutch disks around February-March build dates on our Evos. Only time will tell what will happen, but in the meanwhile, I'm really glad (his) restricter is out and the line was a worthy investment adding extra insurance for the small cost. Neither of our clutches has ever slipped or felt really "bad". Here's to hope they stay strong!

 

here is where it connects to the hardline. I followed timz instructions. Very helpful. thanks

 

here is where it attaches to the strut tower. pull the clips with a pair of plyers.

 

finally the banjo. Have you girlfriend do it. It's a tight space.

 

old and new.

 

feed the new one in from the top.

 

run it down around the wires and hook it all back up. Then pull the little rubber dust cover off the slave cylinder and loosen the bleed screw. 10mm. I used an old piece of my grandma's oxygen tube for a bleed tube and pushed the clutch pin back and forth until no more air bubbles come out. I had to keep filling the Master cylinder about every 10 pumps to keep it full. If it drops too far it will hiss cause air gets in and you have to start all over again. so make sure it stays full. To get to the clutch pin undo the two bolts on the slave cylinder and pull to it out to the right. If you are removing the ristrictor DO IT NOW before you start bleeding the system. Just take out the slave and remove the banjo. then poke the black plug with something until it falls out. Remember the monkey and the ant hill. Then pull the spring and put it back together. put it back on the car then bleed.

 

This is all that you can see after it's installed.

 

sorry about the huge pics. I'm an idiot. If anyone has a problem. Just ask. I did everything twice. The wrong way then the right way. Uhhh just so I'd know what might have happened.

 

Well, got to it today... I went ahead and used the 3/4” shrink tubing to “tone it down a bit”. The tubing recovers to 3/8”, so with a light hand and the mini butane torch, it doesn’t stand out at all. Matter of fact, you’d have to have knowledge of the existence of an aftermarket line, and really be looking for it to find it. Just like I like it, it’s what you don’t see that matters. Back to the review at hand… I hadn't realized how accustomed I'd become to the numb OE line. When I backed out of the garage, I thought to myself, wow, this is the way it should have been when I bought the car. Nice and crisp. Full engagement now is at the upper 2/3's to 1/4 of release travel... On fast shifts, I used to have to make sure to stomp the pedal to the floor to prevent a grind in the lower gears. No longer. I had already taken out the restrictor, but the feel… you can actually feel the clutch disc contact the flywheel now. I haven't tried a launch yet, but even regular, lazy shifting seems easier. I'm thinking the expansion of the OE line was causing a delay that didn't go well with my "quick foot, and slow hand". I don't think I'll have the occasional quick-shift 1st to 2nd grind anymore either. Money damn well spent! It feels good enough that I might even take the car to the strip now, just to see what she'll do.


Due to my big hands and forearms, the banjo fitting was a real pain in the ***! To uninstall/install the banjo, you have to "one hand it" between and behind the master cylinder/brake booster and the strut tower. You only have about 2.5 or so inches of space to reach through. The only addition I made to the instructions already posted on the install of the part is I slightly bent the neck of the banjo fitting toward the passenger side for a little more clearance with the strut tower. That fitting is hard as hell so I wouldn't recommend this to others as you may break/damage the piece trying to bend it. I had to put the fitting in a new, smooth jawed vise (to protect the fitting surfaces)and push my 250lbs on it to budge it... keeping in mind you only have about 3/4 of an inch of neck on the fitting to push on.


OT side note: I put my Forged Motorsport diverter valve back in at the same time. The OE valve must leak pretty badly under full boost. As before, with the Works 93 flash, and stock boost, the car felt much, much stronger and responsive with the Forged valve back in. I'd got walked by a "stock" 350Z a few weeks ago after putting the OE piece back in for an Auto X... we were even til 3rd, at which time he just pulled away... I was cheezed at the time cause I'd walked 3 or 4 other 350Z's before... It makes a little more since now.

If I didn't make much sense, or seemed choppy, PM me tomorrow if anyone has any questions noone else has answered about the part. Zeus is a little lit up with the wine right now...

 

...I started my reply before your pictures were posted... reminded me... sorry to those of you who would like to see the "stealth" mod... My camera took a **** and I haven't replaced it. Sorry guys

 

there was alot of stupidity here that nobody needs to waste their time reading.....its was late...i was stupid....