I can't wait to see more DFW owners with this installed out at TMS or MSR, or any other racing venue soon!

 

Talked to the owner of my dealer today at his soloII race. This hose will not void any warranties.

 

Good idea. everyone should check with their service department and get things such as this in writing. Each warranty claim is subject to indiividual circumstances.

 

Just ordered the clutch lines. Unfortunately I don't think they will save the stock clutch as it is already slipping. Can't wait to see the difference they will make. I should have my new clutch in by the time I get these.

 

Silver surfer, thanks so much for the insturctions, it sounds much more easier with these things cleared up.

And if this mod won't void the warrenty i don't know y everyone doesn't do it, RP is gonna make a lot of money. We need more guys like Ari out there to find these weak points in the evo for us.

Another thing is that Im geting a new factory clutch put in as we speak. I will put this new clutch line in ASAP so in a couple months we will see how this new line works with saving the clutch life.

 

could someone please take some pics of an install for us? it sure would be greatly appreciated.

 

Once I get mine in the mail I will take some pics of the install and post them up.

 

you're awsome man!

 

Guys - not to blow anyone out of the water here, but the purpose of a braided clutch line are 2 fold (we have been making our own for WRX's for years now):

1. Much like bradied brake lines, it imporves feedback and overall feel.

2. reliability - over time, a rubber clutch line will fail - simply will not happen with a braided one if its built correctly.

3. This will not be a magic fix for frying clutches - that is strictly due to the driver and or pressure plate (as with most Japanese cars, the stock disk is a capable unit for this car). It will give mbetter overall feel, and is especially useful for you drag racers (its much easier to read the friction point with a braided line).

 

I was thinking that it was odd that the left-hand drive Evos are having so many more problems with the clutch than the right-hand drive ones, and that clutch-feel has never been a visible problem on RH cars.

The transmission layout in RH cars is identical to LH cars, so wouldn't the distance from the clutch master cylinder to the connecting point on the transmission be almost twice as far on RH cars?

I dug up an Evo shop manual page on the clutch for RH cars... and it turns out that 90% of the length from the clutch master cylinder to the transmission is a steel brakeline-type pipe, only the last few inches are rubber! I'm sure the short rubber length of hose only allows for movement of the transmission relative to the chassis.

Anyway, nothing conclusive, since the Evos have probably been made this way since the first Evo left-hand drive model was produced, but it is interesting.

 

Adam,

I don't think you blew anything/one out of the water, because:

1. No one is saying that braided clutch hoses is a new idea. As I said, the one in my FD RX7 did not make that much of a difference, of course it wasn't over 2 feet long either.

2. It does magically fix the horrible clutch feel/unpredictable engagement. Untill you feel it for yourself, you do not realize how big of a difference it really is. Did you order one for yourself?

3. You admit that it helps to read the friction point better, I suspect in this case you don't know the half of it. With the US EVO8 I have found that the improved clutch line allows me to launch the car in every situation with less slip.
You do not think that would help with clutch wear or accidentally frying it? I think you should test it first and then tell me/us what you think.

The improvement with this line is immediately obvious, as to wether it is the "magic bullet" for clutch failure? Obviously I cannot say that for sure, but IMHO it is, of course time will tell if I am right.


Kind regards,

Eric

 

I ordered mine too and waiting to get it but I have not a clue on how to change it and how to take off the restrictor thing everyone has been talking about. Should I take it to a shop to do this for me?

 

From the shop manual:

CLUTCH BLEEDING
CAUTION
Use the specified brake fluid. Do not mix brake fluids.
Specified fluid: Brake fluid DOT 3 or DOT 4
1. Connect a hose with a bottle to the bleeder screw.
2. Open the bleed nipple.
CAUTION
For bleeding, never "pump" the clutch pedal. This may
cause an oil leak at the clutch cylinder.
3. Depress the clutch pedal slowly. Open the bleeder screw to
let air and brake fluid out. Close the bleeder screw. Release
the clutch pedal. Repeat until only brake fluid and no air
comes out.
4. Check that the brake fluid reservoir level stays between
"MAX" and "MIN" marks throughout the clutch bleeding
process.

Just an FYI... I have never done it before either.

 

Line diagram:

 

Just installed mine and removed restrictor....now it feels like a proper clutch...although I still think the stock clutch is not up to the task at hand....but at least you can feel engagement ect a lot better now....sorry no pics