Solution for Peakboost FTW manifold and radiator hose
DTM sells a Griffin unit for the Evo8/9 that has a straight radiator hose connection, so it avoids the clearance issue with the turbo manifold. I don't know how the DTM unit compares to the CBRD one for cooling, but DTM does run the same one they sell on their 500+ HP shop time attack car. I'm not sure on the pricing, but I think the DTM unit is under $500. PM "DTM" for more details.
DTM radiator FTW for sure. Dual griffin core much like Rich just said. You can't beat it bud. The price is under $500
PM for details.

PM for details.
Last edited by xiaoni420; Jul 21, 2008 at 08:08 PM.
Our radiator was designed to flow like the stock core. It utilizes all the factory style coolant passages for maximum efficiency and allows ALL the stock mounting connections to stay in tact. It does not have the thickness of a KOYO style core, because it does not need it. It has a dual passage core that flows and dissipates better than stock. ALOT better than stock. It also allows guys to run some of the larger setups without compromise as the neck is more conveniently shifted to side. We have been running this same core on our TA car for over 2.5 years. We never really had a product release because word of mouth is what actually sold these for a long time. But the more and more people run them the more popular they became. If anyone has any questions or comments, please feel free to post. I will be happy to answer them for you.
I have the same issue with my BR tubular kit. The shop that installed it had to cut away part of the ETS pipe to clear. I went ahead and wrapped the pipe in thermo-tec shield for a fix for now until the funds are available to swap to DTM or CBRD radiator.
Spoke to Ken the other day. He has the FTW kit on his own car. He wrapped his upper radiator hose in gold foil and ran a track day (Super Lap Battle) without any issues with the hose. So, I will give it a try as is and keep my fingers crossed.
Thanks for all the advice.
Thanks for all the advice.
yeah, we are having a problem with ours...
we have a rally team running them, they called and asked for a less efficient core, because its cooling too well, they are having to put tape on the air inlets on the bumper to get the car up to temp...
cracked me up!! lol
cb
we have a rally team running them, they called and asked for a less efficient core, because its cooling too well, they are having to put tape on the air inlets on the bumper to get the car up to temp...
cracked me up!! lol
cb
i want a cbrd rad but there bukoo bucks but i guess what they say is true " u get what u pay for" but the thing is i dont have a extra 5-600 $ laying around to get a rad...
get a j-bend aluminum 1 1/2 pipe, and a L bend 1 1/2 pipe, cut as necessary and weld together. This is EXACTLY what I did with mine and it works perfect. Heres a couple of pics



Real easy and it only cost $13 each for the aluminum piping and $35 for the welding. You cannot even get a nice hardpipe upgrade for more than twice that amount. I also have a KOYO radiator which is 1-1/2 inch thicker than the factory one. I still have about 3/4 of an inch between my pipe and manifold.



Real easy and it only cost $13 each for the aluminum piping and $35 for the welding. You cannot even get a nice hardpipe upgrade for more than twice that amount. I also have a KOYO radiator which is 1-1/2 inch thicker than the factory one. I still have about 3/4 of an inch between my pipe and manifold.
Last edited by myevo8you; May 18, 2009 at 10:55 PM.
just get a mishimoto evo 4/5/6 radiator. Its all aluminum and really thinick and repositions hte upper house. PLus the radiator is only about $200 bucks + $45 for silicone upper and lower hose.
heres mine on my full race twin scroll hta35r kit

heres mine on my full race twin scroll hta35r kit

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