Last time I checked, the F1 engines had an allowable bore up to 98mm. That will help with a much shorter stroke (at 39.7mm minimum).

This is why people put 88mm stroke cranks inside a 4G64 engine

 

ah. so there would really be no way of every REALLY achieving this idea...... anyone want to buy an evo? If i cant turn it in to an F1 car, then **** it.

 

good read

 

well,

on a fully built 2.3 stroker with a 50 trim turbo - keep in mind stock head and mild hks 272 cams my car made 500whp-471torque on 93 octane and meth injection.

i will say this til im blue in the face but I think that is just the ultimate street / dd car that can still put down some good numbers down the quarter.

now if I had to do it again, I would keep the 2.3 without a doubt but I would add a twin scroll 35R turbo setup or the AMS850 - 950 turbo kit with a CNC'd Race Head and GSC1 Cams

 

If you wanted a massively destroked Evo motor, you need to find a 7 bolt 4G61 crank...they are 75 mm...that would be a R/s (with a 162mm rod, could reasonably go longer) of 2.16 but I dont believe they ever came as anything other than a 6 bolt.

Anything over the 1.84 of the 2.1 (2095cc 87x88 with 162mm) starts to get silly...and expensive.

 

I've stroked a nitroused '91 GSXR 1100...it made more hp and tq and went faster sooner. I've stroked a turbo '05 Hayabusa...it made more hp and tq and went faster sooner. I've stroked a '93 blown cobra...it made more hp and tq and went faster sooner. I've stroked an Outlaw class '68 BB camaro...it made more hp and tq and went faster sooner. My DD 2.0 '03 evo ate a rod bearing so I've stroked it to 2.3 and I think it'll make more hp and tq and will go faster sooner. If that fails...2.4...2.5...2.6. I like going faster sooner.

 

^^ Yeah, you go faster and sooner but you also go faster and sooner to the shop for repairs, that means your car wouldn't be as realiable.

Carlos

 

this is probably one of my favorite reads EVER. it does get a little intense however, but even the basics in it provide for greater understanding for anyone

 

Who has built a 2.6 using 4G64 block and BC (or other0 stroker kit and run it hard for awhile?

Would love to hear about results, pros, cons, opinions, morality issues (yeah, we know you 2.0 die-hards are out there...)
Thanks, Chris Fisher

 

good post

 

I'm not trying to do the 10,000rpm track dance...this is my street car.
I've ridden in built 2.0 and 2.3 setups and the stroked 2.3 setup is an
absolute blast. Since I did my research, my setup will be "realiable". As for repairs, I know a very good shop in Coral Springs FL .

 

Still looking for an email address for the author at the kidzuku site. Anybody got?

Based on his data and the feedback I've received from some of the places that have built the 2.6 4G64 EVO engine, we're going for it. Have ordered three of the req'd blocks and two stroker kits, one at 8:1 and one at 9:1.

Am convinced that if:

a) the stroker kit consists of correctly engineed components

b) the engine is properly built and includes appropriate header/turbo sizing.
cam profile, etc. and

c) proper mapping is achieved (will use MoTeC M800)


that there is no fundamental reason that a 2.6 liter EVO engine cannot be both spectacular and reliable.

(It does appear that with the bore and stroke this engine will have and the resulting piston speed and other characteristics involved that a redline of about 7000 rpm is prety much mandatory, but based on the low-end torque and mid-range power numbers I've seen I have absolutely zero problem with a 7000 rpm redline and actually would welcome it.)

Look at what Porsche accomplished with an air-cooled block that originally housed a 2.0 liter engine. They took basically the same block and same design all the way to 3.6 liters (actually, there were 3.8s available as well) before changing to the new generation water-cooled engines.

Comments from knowledgeable parties are completely welcome.

 

10K miles on my stroker, So far I love it allot and who can complain about all the TQ I daily drive it with an HTA 35R,

 

stroke it.

 

At 7000 RPM you'll be fine. That's not quite street car piston speed, but it's hardly what you'd find on a drag car. Don't skimp on rod bearings. I don't think it has much to do with your tuning, or your turbo, cam, etc. It's just keeping it below your redline. If it's well built(maybe look into some aluminum rods and thick wrist pins), you can take it to 8,500 for short periods, i.e. drag racing.