View Poll Results: What were your results of the 1x1 method?
Headstuds installed by Self ; No issues
54
46.55%
Headstuds installed by Self ; Have/Had Problems
10
8.62%
Headstuds installed by Reputable shop ; No issues
42
36.21%
Headstuds installed by Reputable shop ; Have/Had Problems
10
8.62%
Voters: 116. You may not vote on this poll
If your ARP Headstuds were Installed 1x1 Please Vote!
I did my headstuds 1x1 when i installed my cams and did my timing belt. I have had no issues at all.
What many people forget to do is re-torque the headstuds! I put around 300 miles on the car after installing them, allowing the engine to cycle from dead cold to operating temp around a dozen times. During this time frame i made sure not to beat the **** out of the car.
When i re-torqued them, i found on 4 of the studs had some small movement before the torque wrench clicked. The rest were still perfectly tight. I imagine that if i hadnt re-torqued it could have eventually led to failure
Drive it easy, cycle the engine through the temp ranges, then re-torque!
What many people forget to do is re-torque the headstuds! I put around 300 miles on the car after installing them, allowing the engine to cycle from dead cold to operating temp around a dozen times. During this time frame i made sure not to beat the **** out of the car.
When i re-torqued them, i found on 4 of the studs had some small movement before the torque wrench clicked. The rest were still perfectly tight. I imagine that if i hadnt re-torqued it could have eventually led to failure
Drive it easy, cycle the engine through the temp ranges, then re-torque!
I agree it's a good idea to do what you did, but what you described isn't retorquing.
Retorquing involves backing the nut off, then tightening back to proper torque specs. If you just put a torque wrench on the nut at the previous torque setting and try to 'check' it, you have to overcome the coefficient of statuc friction, which is much higher than the coefficient of dynamic friction. So, if your old torque setting was at 80 ft/lbs and you just set your wrench to 80ft lbs to recheck the torque, then your nut would have to come well below 80ft-lbs before it even budged. Almost always, no nuts will move at all, even if they fell below the 80 ft lbs initial torque setting.
That's the whole reason why when you are torquing something, you want the click of the torque wrench to occur within your range of motion of the wrench. You want the click to happen while you are moving the wrench, not after your stopped and then tried again and it clicked without being able to move it at all.
Hopefully this makes sense. It's a bit hard to explain, but most people will know what I am talking about.
Retorquing involves backing the nut off, then tightening back to proper torque specs. If you just put a torque wrench on the nut at the previous torque setting and try to 'check' it, you have to overcome the coefficient of statuc friction, which is much higher than the coefficient of dynamic friction. So, if your old torque setting was at 80 ft/lbs and you just set your wrench to 80ft lbs to recheck the torque, then your nut would have to come well below 80ft-lbs before it even budged. Almost always, no nuts will move at all, even if they fell below the 80 ft lbs initial torque setting.
That's the whole reason why when you are torquing something, you want the click of the torque wrench to occur within your range of motion of the wrench. You want the click to happen while you are moving the wrench, not after your stopped and then tried again and it clicked without being able to move it at all.
Hopefully this makes sense. It's a bit hard to explain, but most people will know what I am talking about.
For the folks who DID have a leak did you check the deck clearance and did you change the headgasket or was the head not lifted at all when you swapped out the studs? I swapped the headgasket and installed the studs, checked the clearance, torqued it down the proper way, 40 miles no leak yet lol
And can someone explain to me the 1x1 torque method, searched it and got nowhere? Basicly start in the middle and work your way out but torquing it down the X way?
I just noticed its a thread from '08!
And can someone explain to me the 1x1 torque method, searched it and got nowhere? Basicly start in the middle and work your way out but torquing it down the X way?
I just noticed its a thread from '08!
Last edited by Czarcasm; Apr 7, 2013 at 02:59 AM.
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