View Poll Results: What were your results of the 1x1 method?
Headstuds installed by Self ; No issues



54
46.55%
Headstuds installed by Self ; Have/Had Problems



10
8.62%
Headstuds installed by Reputable shop ; No issues



42
36.21%
Headstuds installed by Reputable shop ; Have/Had Problems



10
8.62%
Voters: 116. You may not vote on this poll
If your ARP Headstuds were Installed 1x1 Please Vote!
If your ARP Headstuds were Installed 1x1 Please Vote!
-Although we all know this is not the proper method of installing; This thread is to analyze the success rate of the "1x1 Method"
Please vote only if your head studs were installed 1x1.
If you vote no issues, make sure to check behind the block for an oil leak because this can be easily overlooked if your not looking for it. it just leaks slowly and is never enough to reach the ground.
Please vote only if your head studs were installed 1x1.
If you vote no issues, make sure to check behind the block for an oil leak because this can be easily overlooked if your not looking for it. it just leaks slowly and is never enough to reach the ground.
Last edited by itzcharlez; Aug 14, 2008 at 03:52 PM.
i really don't understand why anyone would do it like this... (1x1). There is a point of torquing the headbolts (in this case 'studs') in a specific pattern which typically spreads the stress from the inside outwards to insure a proper seal. Kind of like when you put a sticker on a window and squeeze the air bubbles out to the edge. (i know thats a simple analogy but it gets people to understand)
Is it possible to get a good seal w/ the 1x1 method? Sure... but its also possible to slap a sticker on a window w/out air bubbles by slapping it on also... just highly unlikely it will work out for you everytime. Just as you would squeegy that out... you should torque down the head studs from the center on out just like the torque order suggests. (i learned my lesson w/ countless headgasket changes on my previous turbocharged Honda and MR2 / Supras)
Im sure you can get away w/ it... just like many other shortcuts. But it just takes that little bit of oil or air to seep in to ONE of the areas where a torqued bolt should be and you've got yourself a mess. Also... you are changing how the torque/stress is placed on the head to the block and by the time you are done.. that head may or may not be placing the torque down onto the gasket/block like it should be. Personally i wouldnt short cut this particular thing. I'd do it to any other seal/gasket that doesnt have an oil/water jacket running through it...
Is it possible to get a good seal w/ the 1x1 method? Sure... but its also possible to slap a sticker on a window w/out air bubbles by slapping it on also... just highly unlikely it will work out for you everytime. Just as you would squeegy that out... you should torque down the head studs from the center on out just like the torque order suggests. (i learned my lesson w/ countless headgasket changes on my previous turbocharged Honda and MR2 / Supras)
Im sure you can get away w/ it... just like many other shortcuts. But it just takes that little bit of oil or air to seep in to ONE of the areas where a torqued bolt should be and you've got yourself a mess. Also... you are changing how the torque/stress is placed on the head to the block and by the time you are done.. that head may or may not be placing the torque down onto the gasket/block like it should be. Personally i wouldnt short cut this particular thing. I'd do it to any other seal/gasket that doesnt have an oil/water jacket running through it...
right on... not aimed at you. Just commenting on the act itself. I agree... this poll should be interesting to see. Who knows, maybe the majority was successful and worth the gamble?
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I put mine on around 15K with a WR turbo at 27psi, then moved to a 3065 at 30psi, then back down to a IX turbo at 22psi and never had a problem. The engine was ripped out at 52k for my build in a different thread.





