Camshafts for Evo red... idle, revlimit, power
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: Vail, Colorado
I would definitely get head studs that's a no brainer i apologize for not mentioning it. I don't understand what's so bad about an aggressive cam. I've heard that JUNS are much more of a problem getting them under control with a viii without a standalone, but a ix is pretty easy to get a nice idle even with the stock ecu.
So what other downsides do aggressive cams? I know 9sec9 runs the red and the juns and he's the one that recommended kiggly racing springs and retainers. I have also heard the GSC S2's have put some serious numbers up on stock frame turbos and S2's really don't need a 35r or bigger to maximize their potential.
So what other downsides do aggressive cams? I know 9sec9 runs the red and the juns and he's the one that recommended kiggly racing springs and retainers. I have also heard the GSC S2's have put some serious numbers up on stock frame turbos and S2's really don't need a 35r or bigger to maximize their potential.
More aggressive cams create more sluggish low speed response and spool characteristics, while placing greater stress on the valvetrain.
At the very least, cams should be matched to the realistic capability of the head and turbo. The port of a factory head is dead above ~10.5mm lift, so JUNs seem to be designed around that. With respect to effective duration and cam timing, ideally one wants something that begins coming on at the same time as the turbo, and signs off about the same time. Anything else, and the car goes slower.
As a rule of thumb, it's better to under-cam slightly than to over-cam.
At the very least, cams should be matched to the realistic capability of the head and turbo. The port of a factory head is dead above ~10.5mm lift, so JUNs seem to be designed around that. With respect to effective duration and cam timing, ideally one wants something that begins coming on at the same time as the turbo, and signs off about the same time. Anything else, and the car goes slower.
As a rule of thumb, it's better to under-cam slightly than to over-cam.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: Vail, Colorado
More aggressive cams create more sluggish low speed response and spool characteristics, while placing greater stress on the valvetrain.
At the very least, cams should be matched to the realistic capability of the head and turbo. The port of a factory head is dead above ~10.5mm lift, so JUNs seem to be designed around that. With respect to effective duration and cam timing, ideally one wants something that begins coming on at the same time as the turbo, and signs off about the same time. Anything else, and the car goes slower.
As a rule of thumb, it's better to under-cam slightly than to over-cam.
At the very least, cams should be matched to the realistic capability of the head and turbo. The port of a factory head is dead above ~10.5mm lift, so JUNs seem to be designed around that. With respect to effective duration and cam timing, ideally one wants something that begins coming on at the same time as the turbo, and signs off about the same time. Anything else, and the car goes slower.
As a rule of thumb, it's better to under-cam slightly than to over-cam.
So you would recommend the GSC2 unless I get a headwork done? Springs and retainers won't cut it?
WAT?
first off, is this english?
u dont want to go with dual springs because of the excesive wear on the valvetrain unless u plan on running really high in the RPM range. i would say 8500 is just fine with single springs. the red will die off well b4 10k as well, and u are crazy if u are running 10k on a stock bottom end!!!
first off, is this english?
u dont want to go with dual springs because of the excesive wear on the valvetrain unless u plan on running really high in the RPM range. i would say 8500 is just fine with single springs. the red will die off well b4 10k as well, and u are crazy if u are running 10k on a stock bottom end!!!
BTW if you can afford the Juns they are a sick cam but then again so are the S2's i see your dilemma! GL
Account Disabled
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 0
From: Bel Air, MD
does anybody know how much the juns really cost....i found a vendors website on here and on there website they where like $1200 i mean i know there a sick cam but the price kinda sounded rediciolous for a cam...anybody know the real price
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: Vail, Colorado
$1200 i think includes springs and retainers with the cams. I'm pretty sure just the JUN camshafts are around 800 or so. Can anyone answer my question about getting the S2's unless I do all the headwork then get the JUNS. Is it really not advisable to run Juns with just head studs, springs, and retainers.
Last edited by john.schuber; Aug 16, 2008 at 12:50 AM.