It really boils down to how good of a deal are you getting and what kind of kit is it.

To me there's only the Green/Red option or straight to the 35R. I would either stay stock appearing, or go big.

 

i'm sorry but considering the options out for evos, 3076's suck. The green will make just about the same amount of power and spool up way quicker. And its cheaper. The red will outperform the 3076 by FAR.

Only 30r worth going with is the 3082r

 

Somebody needs to take their own advice.

 

The guy in my town with the 3076 put down 30whp more than I did on the same dyno and same gas when i was runing a FP3065 (GT3082) and i was trapping 127... so I would say that the AMS 3076 kit doesn't suck.

A Red outperforming a 3076 by Far is a exaggerated statement. That statement pretty much says that a 35r isn't worth buying when you can buy a red.

 

Stay with the Green. If you want 3076+ power, go with the RED. The tuner will ALWAYS be the biggest difference in what one car can make vs another. Potential is a small part of the equation. If the tuner doesn't get the power out of a 3076, but another tuner maximizes the Green on Pump, the Green wins. Quicker spoolup will beat higher peak numbers MANY times. STAY WITH THE GREEN LUKE! If you want to kill a well tuned 3076, do it with a RED. The choice is simple.

 

and taper back down

 

It also depends on price to...I def would not go with a 30r if I was buying a new kit and paying $3k plus for it...go 35r right from the gate..

reg 35r with a .63 hotside or HTA with an .82..

i def should of went bigger

lag is overated big time..

I mean a reg 35r with an .82 is def laggy but and hta or a .63 is perfect for a daily driven drag car.

now if you want to autocross it go green i guess..

 

lol

When i explain to people the difference's in my car going from a 20g-9 to a 30r I pretty much say that there is finally life past 6krpms, especially with my 35r, there is nothing like watching (and feeling) that little boost needle hold 2.5 bar until i shift at 8krpms

 

I Just took a ride in a evo 9 with a green at autox last weekend (400whp), pulled good but the car deff need some R compounds for that track. The Green is a great turbo for autox.

 

Please be more specific.

 

Yah the green didn't net me as much power as I'd hoped, but it did gain 10-20whp above 5K on 91 with a HFC.

But then again 317/293 on our local mustang dyno was very strong for a stock turbo car on that dyno, so it's really hard to say if my green was underperforming or if my stock turbo was outperforming the average stock turbo car.

For reference I think my car did 230 something bone stock on this dyno.

 

What I'm trying to lien towards is the extended power/tq past 5500 rpm that a 3076 or Red for that matter can net.

I would guess that the green would be an autox beast (depending on the track), but as others said on this thread, you just have to feel how a 3076 pulls to 8k (or a 35r for that matter) to really appreciate how much fun it is.

 

Just do a 35R or an fp green/red 3076 is weak

 

A couple of things:

1. your 'buddy' is ditching the 3076 in favor of an FPRed ... IMO that's not an opportunity, that's a hint (gee, I wonder why he's going to an FPRed) ... stick with the green

2. At your mod level, you are not going to be able to take full advantage of the performance that either a 3076 or an FPRed can offer ... stick with the green, unless you've got big plans for better supporting mods.

3. If you're planning on running pump gas, you're going to really have to up the supporting mods to be able to get significantly better numbers out of a 3076 or FPRed over an FPGreen ... stick with the green,

So, looks like Green 3, 3076 0 ... this is a no-brainer, IMO.

l8r)

 

Couldn't agree more

for the record i've put down 392@wheels(on a cartec dyno-low reader) on pump gas on an externally wastegated green,i hold 2.0bar up to the redline which is 7800 on my setup and that's because i believe that is pointless to run the green over 2bar on pump.