I'm going to be swapping out my stock cams with HKS 264/272 's this weekend with a buddy who has a lot of experience with 1st gen DSM's.

He indicated that I should ask for any tips, tricks, pitfalls to avoid, etc. in terms of swapping out the cams in the Evo VIII engine. I searched the How To section and there was only a link to a walkthough for 1st gen DSM's.

Please, if you have any advice, particularly about removing / reinstalling the front cover, let me know. I'm going to try and get a lot of pics and take notes so I can benefit everyone with a clear walkthrough.

Thanks!

 

Basic directions

1 - remove rocker cover

2 - put engine just before TDC

3- ZIP tie belt to pulleys

4 - Apply cam tensioner tool - its a rod you screw in to release the pulley on the belt

5 - change out one can at a time - hanging it on the other wheel to keep it up and the belt on

6 - make sure to put the cam pos trigger back on in the right direction

7 - trq caps to 17 ft lbs

8 - use lock tight on the pulley bolts - 65 ft lbs

9 - relase the tool

10 - spin engine and verify timing is still on

Takes me about 3 hours - good luck

 

Just what Al said, except I bled my lifters down before installing the cams. Not bleedind down the lifters can cause a very bad idle since the lifters are set for the original cams and would need to readjust themselves to the new cams. Although this practice is done by very few techs, it is what I did with my cams. Oh, another thing is that this job takes me 1 1/2 hours

 

haha - I feel a little stupid asking, but I can't resist:

What does bleeding the lifters down mean?

 

interesting...

 

you bleed the lifters down by removing them from the head (very easy once the cams are out), inserting a paperclip (or something thin and long) into the center hole on top of the lifter. You will manually squeeze the lifter at the same time you are inserting the paperclip into the hole, you will feel the lifter compress easily when you have opened the internal valve. At that point the lifter will squeeze out some oil and you're done. It actually sounds harder than it is, it only takes 5 to 10 seconds per lifter.

The problem with not doing this is that the lifter for the original cam may not ever bleed down on its own and will not cause any noticable performance loss except at idle. My idle is as good as it gets with cams (272 hks), my vacuum doesnt go below 17" (stock was 21") . Of course you can hear a cam idle but it sure isn't what alot of these guys complained about.

 

So how many rotations does it take for the lifter to reprime? Sounds like it would allow a lot of extra play for a couple of revolutions which couldn't be good for the surfaces...

 

I know there are two different cam styles that are out, which would you use for the best performance ... What size in the intake what size in the exhaust side...

 

To reprime the lifters you should crank the engine over without starting. You can find the ecu relay and disconnect it. Crank it for a good 15-20 seconds. Like I said before, this is my practice, alot of people can just slap the cams in and it might run perfect (although it may not).
I used 272' HkS on both the intake and exhaust cams. I dont have a problem with idle, no CEL, and my fuel economy on the highway at 70-80mph (at no boost) is 26mpg. Can't complain. Tuning for light throttle-off boost is the key! On the roadcourse I got like 6mpg!!!

 

I want to know more about this cam bleed technique!

 

Get a wobbly 12mm socket for the cam sensor bolt. Other than that, its pretty straight forward. Oh yeah, get a 6 pack of your favorite beer for afterwards!

 

haha thanks, but I dont drink. Im sure i could use a few cherry cokes though.

 

sorry for the newb question but can someone comment on point #2 with regards to the tdc.
Thanks

 

date of thread 2003

 

^welcome to the power of search