So Ive decided to buy a lightened flywheel since I need to replace my clutch. Im not going to a twin plate setup so I need to find a decent light weight flywheel to meet my application. Two big questions I have came across in my research:

1) Through my research I came across some people saying aluminum flywheels are bad can any explain this reasoning?

2) I also came across people saying the flywheel caused their evo to throw misfire codes. Is this true? If so what weight of flywheel would cause this reaction? If you dont have this problem what flywheel/clutch setup are you running?

Thank you in advance for any feedback.

 

1) They aren't "bad" maybe disliked becuase you can't resurface them like a normal flywheel and in the past those flywheels have had fracture issue. Though i haven't heard of any fracture issues with an evo based aluminum flywheel.

2) I'm running a ACT prolite wheel with zero issues

 

That actually makes me a little happier because that is the flywheel I was looking at but I wasn't sure if weight was an issue.

 

ACT Prolite here and very happy with it - no problems. You will definitely notice a difference in the speed at which you can rev the car. The Prolite's weight difference makes rev matching while downshifting much quicker.

 

I have a ACT Sprung 6 Puck clutch with a Exedy street light flywheel and I love it, no issues what so ever!

 

I'll bet the misfire code is becasue the lighter flywheel has less mass so it doesnt disguise the engine vibrations and stuff like that as well. If you did throw codes an engine dampener would solve all your problems.

EDIT: When I say engine damper I dont mean the little hydraulic cylinder attached to a bolt on top of the shock tower. I mean that harmonizer pulley thing made by I cant remember who.

 

I have just recently seen some pretty ugly pictures of an aluminum flywheel from either a DSM or Evo. Aluminum fatigues, so I'd feel better with a cro-moly flywheel.

 

Does it suck to get moving from a standstill w/ the Prolite? What about getting moving from a standstill when you're going uphill?

How many times can you resurface that bad boy?

The Prolite is really attractive for a 2.3L stroker but if it sucks to get going from a stop, that kind of negates the point of going to a 2.3L.

 

you dont like ur evo do you? even though some of these guys havent had trouble yet, running a light flywheel is a ticking time bomb. some throw misfire codes, they cause rear ends to go bad, the car will be a ***** to drive especially with a stronger clutch, etc. Just stick with ur stock one everyone who isnt stupid knows that you dont put a light flywheel on an AWD car!

 

above poster, can you ellaborate on why you should not have a light weight flywheel on an AWD car? OP, im running a clutchmasters stage 3 with a fidanza lightweight flywheel and love the combo. starting in first takes a little getting used to but overall its a great combo. i would highly recommend the fidanza for two reasons: 1) super lightweight 2) replaceable faceplate meaning in the future you can pay 80 bucks and replace the faceplate instead of having to buy an entirely new flywheel (much like re-surfacing a stock flywheel). good luck with everything and let us know what you decide to do!

 

I had the Fidanza flywheel in my 8 with their 3.2 clutch, great combo, can be resurfaced and is made in the USA. Also had their flywheel and 4.3 clutch in my IX, same combo found in Caleb from CBRD's WW Evo IX. There are many myths you hear about flywheels etc.... you can't believe them all... give caleb or chad at CBRD a shout

 

I just had an ACT street clutch and prolite flywheel installed, and to be honest, after driving it about 300 miles, it feels EXACTLY the same as my stock clutch/flywheel in terms of starting from a dead stop. Yes, the lightened flywheel seems to rev a bit easier, but it's not drastic by any means. You don't have to rev it excessively to get started from a stop. I haven't changed a thing about how I start from a stop.

I have noticed alot more noise/grinding sounds upon decel when the revs are above 3,000 rpms or so, but that's to be expected.

 

I had a light flywheel in another car. It became more rev happy but I lost top end

 

Huh? I've owned and driven turbo AWD cars for the last 15 years all of which have had lightened flywheels with 0 ill effects as a result.

What does the flywheel have to do with the rear end? The flywheel is bolted to the crank.

Based on your theory all cars with lightened flywheels, smaller than stock diameter clutch packages like a Tilton or Quartermaster should or will have bad rear ends?

The only cars that I've seen throw check engine lights with flywheels below a certain weight are Subaru WRX's/STI's and that happens randomly on some cars with flywheels that weigh less than 13 lbs. The other cars typically have timing marks on the flywheel (350Z/G35) that aren't lined up properly.


I am yet to see an aluminum flywheel that can be resurfaced. I think you mean that the steel friction surface used on the Fidanza is replaceable.

The addition of lightened flywheel cannot make you lose top end, or gain/lose horsepower. It may help the car rev faster because it removes weight of the crank shaft.



To the OP the downsides to any lightened flywheel will be the possibilty of more gear noise that is transmitted. Also, depending on the weight of the flywheel it may make it more difficult to launch the car or get the car going if you live in a hilly area. All of which is subjective to the car and driver. Some people have issue with it, others don't. Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

I have had my ACT pro-lite flywheel along with a twin plate for a year now with no problems. Car just revs quicker.