I say dont do it, you will end up spending your rent money and live on ramen noodles and RC Cola.

 

What would you suggest then?

 

Ok. To achieve 450whp and over.

You need...

Injectors - I'd recommend 1000cc or bigger for the AMS35r kit
Walbro fuel pump - dual pump if needed over maybe 600whp or if boosting really high or if using E85. If you do need a dual pump, you can go with a Buschur setup or a Full Blown setup. I personally went with the Full Blown setup. It requires a little more work but in the end...it looks better...?
Intake - You will need upgraded lower and upper intercooler piping and an intake to fit the 35r 4" inlet. As for the intake manifold, stock would work or you could go ported. I think the best stock appearing manifold would be the Wilson V2 otherwise you could go a full race manifold like AMS's manifold. Throttlebody: stock is ok too but a 65mm will net you better gains.
Intercooler - 4" IMO would be most efficient (ETS, Buschur, AMS...etc.) for that big of a turbo.
Engine management - AEM FTW (but you need an GM/AEM IAT sensor and an AEM MAP sensor. You have to wire it in to the factory harness of the stock MAP and stock MAF sensors). Stock ecu is fine too but you might run into phantom knock issues with a built engine. If you do get an AEM, make sure to get a good BOV of your choice. I personally went with a TiAL from a Works DV. I got tuned at 26psi on the Works DV and when I finally got my TiAL installed, I overboosted to 30+psi which means the TiAL was holding a lot more boost. But if you stay stock ecu, be sure to upgrade from that cheap plastic EVO8 DV.
Cylinder head - a good flowing and efficient cylinder head. Get good cams to support the big turbo too (I went with GSC S2s...Buschur's custom 272s are good too as well as JUN cams and Tomei cams. There are many good cams out there.) You will need upgraded valve springs (perhaps dual springs) with seats and retainers. As for valves, it's your choice to upgrade them. I went with Ferrea +1mm exhaust and intake and used their guides and seals. Or...you can just send in your cylinder head to any of the big vendors out there (Buschur, AMS, JAM, ETS) to get their cylinder head upgrade.
Cylinder block - a tough rotating assembly (cheapest and most simple but tough would be going with an Eagle rods/Wiseco pistons combo). There are many people who have reached 500whp+ with a stock block but IMO it is risking it. I don't think Mitsu ever intended the factory pistons/piston rings to hold that much boost/power. Don't do a drop in build (as I almost did)...get everything machined, cleaned, and balanced. You can also have your block sent in to a vendor to have their special rotating assembly put in.
Transmission - stock tranny would hold up ok. Some people have blown them and some people haven't. It depends on how you drive it. I'd go with a Shep trans or a Buschur trans. I still have a stock tranny and 3rd is starting to go. It grinds when going into 3rd and sometimes it pops out of 1st.
Clutch - You will need a clutch that can hold the power. I have an ACT 6-puck sprung in my EVO and it holds the power good but it's starting to go and I am headed towards buying an Exedy Twin for next year.
The more money you throw at supporting mods, the more power you're going to make off that turbo and make it more efficient.
If I missed anything or misinformed you about anything...please...anyone chip in.
Please search too as there is a lot of useful information out there that you might be missing if you don't search.

EDIT: Almost forgot something.
Exhaust System! - Full turboback for a turbo that big. Get rid of the cat and replace it with a resonated or non-resonated test pipe. Be sure to use a mechanical CEL fix for the rear o2 sensor if you are planning to stick with the stock ecu otherwise just rip both o2 sensors out if you go AEM!

 

Ok. Thank you for all the information.
The AMS stages come with these parts....
1. Air Filter
2. MAF adaptor
3. AMS stainless steel cat back exhaust
4. Walbro 255 fuel pump
5. AMS base flash to ECU
6. Autometer boost gauge

Stage 2....
1. AMS front mount intercooler upgrade
2. Smooth flow lower intercooler piping
3. AMS 3'' full stainless downpipe
4. AMS 3'' stainless steel test pipe
5. NGK spark plugs

Stage 3....
1. ARP head studs
2. HKS cams
3. Megan racing oxygen sensor housing

Would these parts be sufficient enough for adding a gt35r turbo and making 450 hp and is there anything else that is completely neccessary to have?

 

don't forget about oil cooling!! with all that extra heat

 

You wanna buy an evo and already have a 35R in mind? All the previous bolt ons cost alot of $. Mods required probably will be exhaust,cams,fuel mods, intercooler, intercooler pipes, Twin disk, alot more im probably forgetting about (Built motor, head work, AEM if u want more power) etc.... Lots of labor aswell. Your going from a civic to a 35R evo. No offense man you will probably total the car in a week, ive seen it happen before. 450-500 hp is alot coming from a car that probably only makes 100-140??? don't be foolish to assume your gonna be able to handle it its totally different car from corvette... Repair bills aren't cheap either. transmission/ transfercases. Doing it the right way would be starting bone stock and getting all the previous mods and turbo mod last.

 

Thats what I plan on doin. I want to do the stages and then eventually put on the turbo. I want to know if those ams stages are good enough. My question is, if I put those stages on, and then when I want to put the turbo kit on, will the stages from AMS be sufficient enough for the power from the new turbo?

 

That should be good for adding a 35r but you won't be able to use the full potential of that turbo kit because you won't have a built head/block. The cylinder head is the most inportant part of making power! Choose good cams and maybe get the head ported or something. You are going to want to rev higher with the 35r too because power comes on a little later and lasts longer so you will need upgraded valvesprings. Don't forget fuel injectors! I noticed that they don't include injectors on any of their stages (from what you posted). You also don't need a Megan o2 housing because their 35r kit will come with one that is made for the kit. For HKS cams, I'd recommend 272's or larger. After everything, you would need a real good custom dynotune.

 

Ok. I dont want to touch the block if I dont have too. But the cylinder head is manageable lol. Thanks for the information.