SS clutch line is mandatory!
Sep 8, 2003, 08:22 AM
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SS clutch line is mandatory!
It makes a huge difference, especially considering it only costs $70 and is a breeze to install. The only downside is having to convice your girlfriend to stick her hand in your engine bay to start that damn banjo bolt.
Now it takes less clutch travel to disengage the clutch which makes shifting easier and smoother. It doesn't fully cure the 1-2 shift grind, but helps considerably. All in all, it makes the clutch feel much better. So stop reading this and call Alamo Auto Sports (817-860-4300) and get one. I expect everyone to have this done by this weekend
Now it takes less clutch travel to disengage the clutch which makes shifting easier and smoother. It doesn't fully cure the 1-2 shift grind, but helps considerably. All in all, it makes the clutch feel much better. So stop reading this and call Alamo Auto Sports (817-860-4300) and get one. I expect everyone to have this done by this weekend
Sep 8, 2003, 09:16 AM
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Originally posted by jotan82
how long did it take to install?
how long did it take to install?
Major stumbling block would be letting the brake fluid resevoir run too low. It's a tricky devil. It looks full when, in fact, its not. You have to top it off every 6-10 peddle strokes when your bleeding the lines. Other than that, it was cake.
Sep 8, 2003, 09:53 AM
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Originally posted by wizardofoz
do instructions for installation come with the line?
do instructions for installation come with the line?
1. remove airbox, battery, and battery tray (they are just bolted on)
2. Unscrew each end of the old line
3. Remove two clips holding line on by pulling with pliers.
4. Remove hose.
5. Reverse steps 4 through 2 to install the new hose.
6. Bleed the system (just like bleeding brakes)
7. reinstall battery and airbox.
More detailed instructions by timzcat:
Originally posted by timzcat
Braided Clutch Hose Installation
Disconnect and Remove Battery. (10mm)
Remove battery tray. 2 bolts and two nuts hold it in place.(12mm) You also need to remove the bolt that holds the bracket to the tray on the backside (towards cowl)(10mm)
Place a rag under the hose where it connects to the hard line and break he fitting loose. (10mm, line wrench preferably).Remove the retainer clips, one at the hard line and the other half way up the hose.
During the whole process make sure there is ample fluid in the master cylinder.
Remove the clutch hose where it attaches to the clutch master cylinder. (17mm)
Of course you want to have a rag under the master cylinder to keep the brake fluid off the paint.
Finish removing the hose from the hard line.
To install the master cylinder end of the hose, use the supplied banjo bolt and washers.
The easiest way to reinstall the line is to drop the line down from the top, between the strut tower and cowl. Once you have the bolt started, then you can put the other end down through and route the hose properly. I you try to route the hose and then get the bolt started, good luck! The hose hits the strut tower and makes it a ***** to get it straight to thread it in, not to mention you will keep dropping the copper washer. I tried it this way and put it on in about 2 seconds by feeding it down from the top.
Once routed properly, tighten the mater cylinder end of the hose with a 9/16 wrench (yes makes no sense). To keep the pressure off the hose, I looped it upward more than stock was because it hits the strut tower.
Re-attach the hard line end but do not tighten until you have reinstalled the retainer. (just makes it easier to get the retainer back in). Reinstall both retainers, the bowed faces away from the mounting point on the car. Just note the removal and reinstall in same manner. They can be a bit of a PIA too. Try to install as much as possible by hand and make sure they are line up properly and use a bras punch to send them home.
Braided Clutch Hose Installation
Disconnect and Remove Battery. (10mm)
Remove battery tray. 2 bolts and two nuts hold it in place.(12mm) You also need to remove the bolt that holds the bracket to the tray on the backside (towards cowl)(10mm)
Place a rag under the hose where it connects to the hard line and break he fitting loose. (10mm, line wrench preferably).Remove the retainer clips, one at the hard line and the other half way up the hose.
During the whole process make sure there is ample fluid in the master cylinder.
Remove the clutch hose where it attaches to the clutch master cylinder. (17mm)
Of course you want to have a rag under the master cylinder to keep the brake fluid off the paint.
Finish removing the hose from the hard line.
To install the master cylinder end of the hose, use the supplied banjo bolt and washers.
The easiest way to reinstall the line is to drop the line down from the top, between the strut tower and cowl. Once you have the bolt started, then you can put the other end down through and route the hose properly. I you try to route the hose and then get the bolt started, good luck! The hose hits the strut tower and makes it a ***** to get it straight to thread it in, not to mention you will keep dropping the copper washer. I tried it this way and put it on in about 2 seconds by feeding it down from the top.
Once routed properly, tighten the mater cylinder end of the hose with a 9/16 wrench (yes makes no sense). To keep the pressure off the hose, I looped it upward more than stock was because it hits the strut tower.
Re-attach the hard line end but do not tighten until you have reinstalled the retainer. (just makes it easier to get the retainer back in). Reinstall both retainers, the bowed faces away from the mounting point on the car. Just note the removal and reinstall in same manner. They can be a bit of a PIA too. Try to install as much as possible by hand and make sure they are line up properly and use a bras punch to send them home.
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Sep 8, 2003, 01:13 PM
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Before I install this...do you think I should have the dealer take a look at my tranny first, this way they cant say that the installation of this line caused a problem. FYI...just this past weekend I was toolin on the way and shifted into 5th at high speeds and it GRINDS.....it did this almost everytime I was drivin really fast and shifted into 5th. Than this morning drivin to work I was in traffic and had the car in neutral and went to go put it into 1st and for some reason...IT JUST WOULDNT GO IN...haha (this happens alot 
) ....but really this is the first time i had trouble putting it into 1st gear.
) ....but really this is the first time i had trouble putting it into 1st gear.
Sep 8, 2003, 01:27 PM
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Thanks for the tips on the clutch line install, now the install doesn't sound as hard as I thought it would be 
I had this problem with my 3000GT, sometimes just can't get it into 1st from neutral, so what I did was have the clutch depressed fully, shift to 2nd first then you can slide it into 1st easily.
Originally posted by SuperchargedGTZ
... Than this morning drivin to work I was in traffic and had the car in neutral and went to go put it into 1st and for some reason...IT JUST WOULDNT GO IN...haha (this happens alot ) ....but really this is the first time i had trouble putting it into 1st gear.
... Than this morning drivin to work I was in traffic and had the car in neutral and went to go put it into 1st and for some reason...IT JUST WOULDNT GO IN...haha (this happens alot
) ....but really this is the first time i had trouble putting it into 1st gear.
Sep 8, 2003, 02:28 PM
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I installed one in my car and noticed a pretty decent difference when shifting and it really seemed to help me on my lauch, no clutch smell from slipping and had about six runs in at the track, and it did it every now and then before. all in all very nice upgrade 