24.5psi AMS tuned with no driveline mods apart from intake and a TBE.

 

I'm tuned at 24 on 93oct. Will be more once I get the red!

 

Sorry guys, I had to get off the computer for a bit so couldn’t keep up with ur great comments.
I am pretty much new to modding my evo, so far I only have a muffler and AEM intake on it, planning on getting it tuned/flashed in couple of weeks with the possibility of throwing a Greddy TI TBE and jack up the boost a little. So everything else is still stock, fuel pump, head studs, no mbc (not yet, but will get one in a week)….etc

So what I am planning on doing is tune it and jack up the boost with the addition of having a tbe + intake. And I would like to keep it as my DD running on 93 oct. I don’t have another car so won’t be pleasant to see something wrong goes on with it. I just wanted to see what everyone thought was a safe daily boost that will kick *** but yet still be safe.

BTW, excuse my ignorance but I have been hearing a lot about “red” and “green” swaps, and I am assuming that those are types of turbos. Correct? If so, who sells them? And how big are they in comparison to a 20G ? Cuz that’s what I thought I should be upgrading next (with a fuel pump, and a meth kit)

And by the way, do people generally lower the boost when they install a bigger turbo just because its flowing more air ?


Thanks and I appreciate all the comments (both +&-)

 

Don't mean to sound insulting, but reading is your friend. Start reading all of the threads on anything and searching for things "red," "green," or "stock block." Do this and in 2 weeks you'll know 85% of what you'll ever need to know about Evo's.

 

I ran 25 psi w/ ARP headstuds, fuel pump injectors etc. No probs, tapers to about 20ish. The stock turbo can only do so much. My tuner recommended ARP's to boost above 22psi just to play it safe. This is on 91 octane.

 

They are both turbos by Forced Performance.

 

thanks guys. Ya belive me I am over whelemd with all the knowledge that could be pulled out of the forum. been reading a whole lot but sometimes i would run into lil things here on some of the posts that i won't understand, such as all of the abbreviations for the parts.

just out of curiosity, how tough is it to replace the head studs with the ARP's? is it just a matter of replacing the bolts and torqing them at a certain rate ? (i know, i should have searched this querstion, but iam already..lol, thanks)

 

it all depends on your tuner's skills. spend time reading around the forums and you will learn a lot. Most if not all questions have been asked/covered here in this forums. its a matter of using the search button. before you buy any parts/upgrades search/research here first. an important part of making good power is a good combination of performance parts and a good tuner. good luck modding. keep us updated.

 

Don't bother replacing the stock bolts with ARPs unless you already have the cylinder head off. Just leave the stockers, they are plenty strong to keep the head gasket sealed for what you are trying to accomplish.

 

Get a shop to do the headstuds man. you sound like you're just learning everything on the fly and don't know much so it would be safe to stick with boltons and low boost.

 

I've been running a 21 - 24 psi map for about 20k ( kilometers ) with 0 problems with my original bolts. actually on 93 not 91 ...

 

what do u consider low boost? and what is the stock boost on those cars btw?
Thanks,

 

?????????

 

stock internals with a 35r I ran 22psi with an afc tune and had no problem

 

The safe boost # on stock 4g63 depends on a list of things:

angle of peak pressure (afr/timing)
octane (duh)
rate of combustion (afr/fuel of choice)
VE (camsettings/cams)
IAT (ducting/cooling)
backpressure
oil pressure/clearance/weight
health of engine

and most of all, your wallet!