hey
In about 2 weeks, i will be picking up my first evo, it is a 2003 blacky with 78 000 miles, the car runs fine, it is completely stock, and from what my mech said, he didn't see any trace from past mods.

So, this is my first Evo, so i want to do it right from the first time.

I will use the car for autoX and rallyX, with the occasional highway pulls!
Which means i will be spending most of the budget on the suspension, but i do want to add a little extra quick to it, and here are the parts i had in mind:

setup N°1:
HKS racing suction instake or Cobb SRI (which one?)
Greddy TBE
XS FMIC + piping
Greddy profect B
tune by jestr out of orlando

setup N°2
Cossie M3 cams
Greddy TBE
ARC airbox or cobb
Clutch master stage 2
tune by jestr
(if i have enough money left i will upgrade the FMIC chore)

Well a quick reply will do, unless you think i should change things up...

I am so exited you have no idea, i am like a kid in a candy store!!!


Alex{thumbup**

 

Well, I would definately replace the clutch. Probably with an Exedy Twin Disk. Great clutch, but kinda pricey. A lot of people have replaced their clotch with others, to only get this one at a later date. I would probably do a MBC instead of a EBC. I have been told that the stock intake works well. When I bought my car it already had an intake. FMIC + piping, good idea, ETS has probably the cheapest kit out there. TBE+TP will free up tons of power. It looks like you are partial to Greddy, so, I guess stick with that. I don't know much about the Greddy systems.

 

thanks.

i have done a lot of research, and it looks like it is 50/50 on the cams been a better investment over the FMIC kit, it looks like the stock FMIC and intake are pretty good.

ETS? i l have a look at it. well it is not that i am partial on greddy, but that and HKS are my favorites.

 

I am not sure what Rally-X is, but, if it involves gravelly, dusty, track conditions then I would steer clear of the HKS filter element as it is notoriously lousy at filtering out particulate matter.

 

oh i didnt know that, any chance to twick a splash guard into some sort of funel.
you know like a semi closed airbox/ heatshield

 

If you are interested in autocross and rallycross with driver improvement as a priority at all, I recommend that you decide what organization and class you want to run before you do any mods.
Reason being:
1- If you are relatively new to autocross and racing, mods aren't going to make that much of a difference at first and could actually make the car harder to learn and improve with. I know it sounds ridiculous, especially when you are dying to mod, but it can be very true!
2- Many classes that are good to learn and compete in only allow certain mods, and you may get bumped out of a class that would be most suitable for a mod or two that may not help you that much, at least yet.

I started modding with a similar mentaility as you, then after getting hooked on autocross decided I wanted to focus on driver improvement instead of car improvement, and took a good number of mods off to meet SCCA STU rules. NASA classing is a bit more flexible with the modding than SCCA.

Having a car that meets class requirements and is competitive in its class means you can compare to your competition better and your driving strengths and weaknesses becomes more apparent. In addition, having the boost turned up high really just made the car harder to control and learn to autocross with. FWIW I became a lot faster as soon as I removed my MBC because the powerband was more autocross-friendly.

If you don't care about classing and are more inclined toward your highway pulls and just want to play in autocross, then I guess that doesn't apply to you. But if you are like me and most people who really like to autocross, highway pulls are just boring and dangerous compared to a day of autocrossing.

I strongly second Sparky's suggestion of skipping the intake, and keeping the stock airbox. The stock airbox works very well, and gains from an open element intake are not that significant, and will result in higher intake temps and more debris.
Even in SCCA BSP class, a FMIC is of little to no benefit. Just food for thought.

/Rant

 

The foam used in the HKS filter element allows a lot of abrasive dust particles past which can score your motor´s cylinder walls. The contamination has been corroborated by oil analysis. So, just beware.

 

i guess i ll skip the i ntake

well, i do not really care in what class i will end up been, if i am underpowred i will find a way to increase it.

since the car has a lot of miles on it, i was just thinking that replacing the cams would be a good occasion to replace the stock valves, springs, retainers, i know the engine is very strong so i will not replace the internals, but would be nice to clean everything.

so let me get this right:
stock intake is great
stock FMIC and pipes good for 400HP
internals good too

3"TBE
Walbro fuel pump
Brian Crower 280 Cams
EBC ( i am not a fan of MBC)
STG 2 clutch
COBB SRI ( i have good friend that works for cobb, so i may get it for free with a custom airbox)
ETD
REM
what do you recommend to do the tuning? AEM? haltech?

 

i keep hearing about people upgrade or replace their O2 sensors? how come.

and what about the stock boost solenoid, should it replaced/upgraded?

 

You can get tuned with Openecu with just a tacrix cable. Shouldn't need an AEM or any other stand alone

 

Tune on the stock ecu.... get a Twin disk like QuarterMaster not a stage 2..... TBE, intake, EBC, Fuel pump, A real intercooler like AMS/Buschur or ebay intercooler if u wanna be on the cheaper side. Lower IC pipe, upper pipe can be done later on, Cams if u can do all that at once then great if not do it slowly. Obviously Tuning
Then do suspension / tires for rally X

 

alright, lol why is this my first evo, this car is closed to perfect, oh i know... i couldnt afford one

with 272 cams, what intake and exhaust valve size would be compatible...

 

well i made my choice:
HKS racing suction SRI with custom inclosure ( and i ll make sure to clean and replace the filter often)
Greddy TBE
Greddy profec B ( great little tool, boost gauge and turbo timer in one)
Greddy type S
Walbro FP
XS FMIC + piping

all of those new for 2500 which leaves me with an extra 1000USD to pay for the install and dyno tuning. And i ll also get to buy a little HID kit and some VG with stubby with that.

and once the money tree grows back, i ll throw in bigger turbo, injectors, cams and valves with a new clutch if haven't fried one before.

so thanks for the help guys, i am sure i ll find a way to bug you guys about lowering/tire spec later on!

rocks!

 

aren't those cams a little aggressive?

 

Both of those mods paths are garbage.

INJEN INTAKE
FORGE UNOS MBC
FORGE RS BOV or BUDGET EVO 9 METAL VALVE
WALBRO FUEL PUMP
MEGAN RACING TBE
KELFORD TX272 EVO 8
ACT HDTTP SINGLEDISC CLUTCH TO 600TQ

TUNER OF CHOICE