thanks for the input guys. i didn't have an opportunity to look at the other clutches and i know the flywheel wasn't replaced, but i'll have to ask if it was resurfaced. though i wonder if that would be necessary since the act went in at about 16k miles. i'm having trouble deciding what to do because i don't even know 100% that it's a clutch problem and the drivetrain is still under warranty (but with my previous experiences with my dealership that doesn't mean much). i'm very curious what would make my clutch do this so fast, because as i believe i've said: there was no warning and the slipping is not like i experienced with previous clutches wearing out. this was very abrupt and it seems like the clutch isn't trying to 'catch up' to the revs. also the pedal is a lot lighter and catches much higher. so i'm hesitant to have the dealership tear it down to find out right now because it will be expensive as my last clutch install was about 1400 including the price of the act clutch. also there is a little rattling when idling that stops when the clutch pedal is in and my friend is certain it's the TOB, but i don't know much about trannys.

 

learn how to drive, haha JK

 

i have that many miles on my first stock clutch and i live at the start of the malibu canyons so trust me my car sees a bunch of hard upshifts and downshifts daily... it might be your driving

 

the learn to drive thing is getting old. especially considering most people saying that have 9s which is very different.

 

The older step style DSM flywheels were the only flywheels affected by machining, and only if the machine shop did not machine both surfaces. The EVO 8 & up use a single plane surface for the disc & pressure plate.

As far as the OP states. I would guess that its wearing due to improper pedal free play adjustment or over revved during downshifts (leading cause of "pucks" breaking off.

 

could you explain the improper pedal free play? this clutch engaged when the pedal was close to all the way out which was weird, but when adjusting it that was the point where the clutch was no longer still engaged. and what would constitute overrevving downshifts? i've never downshifted to a redline, but have downshifted to 5k rpm.
when i say i don't beat on it i mean i don't launch all the time (or very often at all), but i still have fun with the car. i usually keep in in one gear though. like i'll shift normal to third then redline third getting on the freeway just for fun. so there isn't much shifting involved when i go fast. like i said, i've been very paranoid about it since the first clutch and more so after the second. which i hate. i want a clutch that i not have to worry about if i'm redlining gears or downshifting hard because i'd really like to get more into autocross.
and does this sound like pads breaking free? it hasn't been confirmed, that was just the dealership mechanic's speculation. i want to know what else people think it could be that would be so sudden to cause this to happen. and what i can do to get decent life out of a clutch.

 

I dont know about any good shops in ID but you really might make better headway going to a respectable show that will touch evos, or at least give the Buschurs, AMSs, CBRDs, etc... a call to see if they can help diagnose. Spending a few hundred to figure out this problem is a helluva lot better than buy another three clutches or having to sell your baby. Again, good luck!

 

that's one of my problems: no performance shops around here will touch the evo tranny. granted there are only 2 performance shops. perhaps i will start calling places to see what they say. i guess the best place to start would be act.

 

I would really give AMS a ring, they are really nice guys and I would bet they will be able to at least give you a place to start troubleshooting.

 

Ever thought about getting a service manual and checking all of your tolerances with your clutch movement etc etc? Do you still have the rubber line going to your clutch slave cylinder. Check it for any type of bulging or weak spots.