We have seen crowers break before, i have never seen them break in a evo but have in some other cars.

 

thanks for the headsup!

i couldnt find anything negative about the crowers nor tuff's on here.

where i came from (srt-4 scene), the crower's were considered the holy grail of all rods, w/ a distant 2nd to pauter, then eagle (that was all we had really).

jumping into the evo world, theres so many options... definately intrigued on going w/ the manleys tho at this point..

 

Thanks. And its A LOT cheaper than having BR, AMS, TT, etc shops build them for you. You'll know what I mean when you get done with just the short block, go back and check their prices when your done. I was about $1k cheaper than BR and close to $1700-2000 for an AMS block.

 

Just from my limited experience, detonation usually beats the **** out of the bearings first, leading to spun bearing and excess heat which leads to rod bolt and rod failure.

High power (torque) will usually bend a rod or destort the ends before causing all kinds of heat and eventual rod/bolt failure.

RPM tends to rip bolts and rods apart. These are the failures that usually show little signs of heat in the parts but catastrpohic failure. You don't get rod knock with these type of failures and is usually where a rod bolt failure happens.

 

oh, i know 100% man. hell, i saved same as you, roughly 1700-2000 on my DIY build on my srt instead of going thru a vendor. hell, stroker kits for those cars are $7,000 thru the vendors there when i coulda got one mocked up by BC for 2700...



im not knocking vendors here selling shortblocks. i understand the need for the extra overhead costs...helping contribute to pay for r&d time, $ for shop cars, $ to pay the shop rent, etc. etc.

just tossing that amount of money around when a huge chunk can be saved isn't my idea of smart spendingand put towards something else.

 

What are the weight differences vs. power handling between the Manley Turbo Tuff and Crower Rods?