scheides

iTrader: (10)

No external dump, the megan is gonna be just fine. Skip the headstuds until you do the cams, and might skip them even then.

You can go with the HFS-1 over the HFS-5, in the real world it does just fine.

Everything else looks dandy, except I would put off the clutch until the stocker starts smelling bad or slipping.

Also, you may want to add ported IM/TB to that list.

sbr-drive

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the great input.

From what I understood, for partial throttle applications (i.e. road racing), the HFS-5 would be the better choice as it varies the injection amount based on IDC rather than just spraying all or none based on MAP (HFS-1). Is that just theory, and as you say, "in the real world" it doesn't matter?

I've only really thought I felt my clutch slip when starting from a stop on steep uphills. I thought this was an early symptom that it's starting to go, so I added the clutch to the list. Perhaps I'll keep the stock clutch until the symptoms get worse, although I've been avoiding any launches as I feel with one or two more, the clutch will be toast.

That's the second suggestion on the IM/TB. It's definitely on my list now to look into.

The head studs just seem like cheap insurance. Small cost, possibly large savings (plus the mental comfort when turning the boost up). It's also on the staged Buschur upgrade list, for what value that adds.

scheides

iTrader: (10)

I just know a lot of guys running a decent amount of boost (28psi) on the stock headstuds w/o problems, on fp greens and reds. Remember, its not necessarily about boost pressure, its about cylinder pressure. The more power you make, the more cyl pressure there will be.

HFS-5 is an awesome system, def worth doing if you plan on road racing.

Also you mentioned BOV. Keep the stocker, everything else on the market sucks for driveability. If it leaks a little when you turn up the boost, crush it slightly.

scheides

iTrader: (10)

oops, double post somehow....

sbr-drive

iTrader: (1)

Good to know. Good point about it not necessarily being about boost (although it's probably a pretty good proxy). While we're on specifics, wouldn't it be based more on torque than power (although as you said, they're all still just proxies for cyl pressure)?

RockmanX

iTrader: (78)

that stock clutch is not gonna last at 400whp long lol need to upgrade lol. now before anybody says anything YEs the stocker can handle 400 whp to a certain extent but every car is different. Now i think you have not actually looked at the aps bov it is not a VTA bov. its vents very little and IS NOT RICER LOUD. Research it please. One of the best bovs you can get period. Drivablely is PERFECT with this bov PERIOD

here is a pic of mine. not installed yet.

sbr-drive

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the DV/BOV reccomendations. I edited the original post to read "Diverter Value/Recirculating BOV" instead of just DV. They're the same anyway.

RockmanX

iTrader: (78)

yes the term is the same but not the bovs. aps the best look into it

mac214

iTrader: (1)

Consider the 1200 cc injectors as the drivability should be the same and give you a little more room if you decide to go with e85. Also, you may need to look into the double pumper depending on the tune etc... but may be fine with the 1200's and 255 on e85.

Also, if you havn't already, check out the intake filter test that was just recently done.

sbr-drive

iTrader: (1)

Moved the DV to the intercooler group as the UICP pipe flange may depend on the DV/BOV choice.

sbr-drive

iTrader: (1)

Yeah. I'm doing a little more research on the injectors. The FIC flow a bit higher (more toward their rated flow) than other brands, so 1050s may be sufficient. I need to look more into the IDC for 1050s for different boost levels and see if it would be better to go with the 1150s. Then again, if drivability is no different, what's really the downside?

Well... there is that MrFred did tons of work to get the latencies nailed down on the 1050s, so the tuning would be a borderline no-brainer, while the 1150s may require alot of work I'm not too familiar with yet.

TxEvo8

iTrader: (5)

1050s should be good since you are going to be running meth...

sbr-drive

iTrader: (1)

Agreed for meth. The question is whether there would be enough room to run e85 instead of race fuel on a road course.I'm not exactly sure how large a meth tank you'd need to run a 20-30 minute track session. So, if e85 is available, it has the benefits of race fuel for much less expensive.

I'm looking into whether the 1050s are big enough to run e85 with the FP red up top. So far, it looks like the fuel pump may be the limiting factor rather than the injectors, but I'm still reading. It seems to be the borderline at 30psi up top and that the double pumper is needed. If you know the answer, I'd be happy to hear it, but I figured I do my job searching before asking

The real question i'm trying to answer for myself if what's the downside of going with the 1150s as opposed to the 1050s?

TxEvo8

iTrader: (5)

I have a 6 quart tank for my meth and it will last for a 30 minute session of hot laps, I do have to fill it everytime though. Burns a little more than half a tank.

Not sure about the injectors for e85, I think most are running 1200s. I know the downside is getting the bigger injectors to run properly on 93..

Good luck whichever course you take!!

sbr-drive

iTrader: (1)

Wow. So ~4qt? That's seems like very little meth. That would be great. What percent meth replacement are you running (% ratio to fuel, not the meth/h2o mix ratio) and what boost are you running between 4k-7k?

I did a back of the envelope calc and figured that I would burn much more than than that for this setup for a 30min session. Obviously there are a couple of major assumptions that I could be off on:

So, if you're running 10-15% meth or lower boost (calc was for ~30psi), or if any of my major assumptions are off, then our numbers could tie out.