At home engine build parts recomendations??
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From: hershey pa/williamsport
At home engine build parts recomendations??
Hey guys I am due for my 60k service and not that I abuse my car but I use my car. This in mind I felt now would also be a good time to go ahead and remove the engine and do a few mods while I was in there.
I think my goal for the car is to eventually be in the 600-650 whp (dynojet). I may or may not come close to that with my current setup but it is the end goal and i don't want to have to build it twice.
So for a 93 pump/alky car with 35r ish sized turbo what piston and rod combos would you guys go with? I mean if stock bottom ends hold around 500 fairly reliable would some sort of budget H beam rod be enough, or should I really be looking into crower or the Turbo tuff rods?
Also I would like to be able to rev this engine pretty high, somewhere in the 8800 range
Thanks for any tips or info you guys can help me

I think my goal for the car is to eventually be in the 600-650 whp (dynojet). I may or may not come close to that with my current setup but it is the end goal and i don't want to have to build it twice.
So for a 93 pump/alky car with 35r ish sized turbo what piston and rod combos would you guys go with? I mean if stock bottom ends hold around 500 fairly reliable would some sort of budget H beam rod be enough, or should I really be looking into crower or the Turbo tuff rods?
Also I would like to be able to rev this engine pretty high, somewhere in the 8800 range
Thanks for any tips or info you guys can help me

The kind of power goals you're aiming for are cutting it pretty close with the eagle rods. Can you pull it off? Sure, but i'd put a little bit of extra insurance and the the crowers or turbo tuff's. As far as pistons go they're pretty self explanatory.
Your oem crank will be able to hold your power levels as well, although you may want to look into a fluidamper to help it out. Head work is pretty self explanatory as well. A full head build is in order.
Your oem crank will be able to hold your power levels as well, although you may want to look into a fluidamper to help it out. Head work is pretty self explanatory as well. A full head build is in order.
The stock crank can hold well over your goals. But rods are a must. Carillo rods I hear are the toughest. Pistons - Eagle. For the head, springs and retainers are a must to prevent valve float, since your going to want to get bigger cams for the turbo your using and the power goals you have. I don't know much about a fluidamper so I can't give any recommendations on that.
To tell you the truth, I would just get a BR stage III block and head if it's in your price range. You can't go wrong with that.
To tell you the truth, I would just get a BR stage III block and head if it's in your price range. You can't go wrong with that.
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From: hershey pa/williamsport
The stock crank can hold well over your goals. But rods are a must. Carillo rods I hear are the toughest. Pistons - Eagle. For the head, springs and retainers are a must to prevent valve float, since your going to want to get bigger cams for the turbo your using and the power goals you have. I don't know much about a fluidamper so I can't give any recommendations on that.
To tell you the truth, I would just get a BR stage III block and head if it's in your price range. You can't go wrong with that.
To tell you the truth, I would just get a BR stage III block and head if it's in your price range. You can't go wrong with that.
Crower rods are iffy... some of the higher end Manley rods are nice, or even better, Carillo and Pauter. Lots of good pistons are out there, Arias, Ross, CP, etc...
If you want to go with 600+whp, dont go economy on anything, its not worth it.
If you want to go with 600+whp, dont go economy on anything, its not worth it.
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I would suggest Buschur JE spec pistons as you can get a drop in piston and Crower rods.
I would suggest to upgrade the valve springs also. Supertech dual springs would be a good bet with the cam your running and rpm you want to run.
I would suggest to upgrade the valve springs also. Supertech dual springs would be a good bet with the cam your running and rpm you want to run.









